Hello everyone!
I'm planning to install tiles in the future hallway and I'm wondering if the following floor construction makes it stiff enough:
Wooden joist floor on 60 cm centers
Cross battens 28*120 mm across the joists
13 mm floor gypsum board across the battens
Adhesive
Tiles
I plan to install hydronic underfloor heating in the battens.
Does this work or do I need 30 cm centers or double gypsum board? I'm also considering the height in relation to the other floors.
I'm planning to install tiles in the future hallway and I'm wondering if the following floor construction makes it stiff enough:
Wooden joist floor on 60 cm centers
Cross battens 28*120 mm across the joists
13 mm floor gypsum board across the battens
Adhesive
Tiles
I plan to install hydronic underfloor heating in the battens.
Does this work or do I need 30 cm centers or double gypsum board? I'm also considering the height in relation to the other floors.
I think it's doubtful if that will work. Remember that you should also have heat distribution plates. These, in turn, make it difficult to glue the floor gypsum with good results (it might glue to the plate, but it's hard to fasten the plate properly to the sparse panel).
An alternative (which you should check with the screed manufacturer) is to use grooved 22mm particle boards (grooves for loops), heat distribution plates, which should be screwed with an awful lot of screws. In this construction, it's important that the plates are properly fastened.
Then you lay reinforcement mesh and pour 20-30mm screed (exact thickness should be verified with the manufacturer). It might be enough with 15mm screed. We did this in one of the bathrooms, used 30mm screed because I didn't trust that the grooved board was as stiff as a regular particle board. According to the screed manufacturer (MAXIT), you should be able to have a very bad floor underneath if you screed 30mm with reinforcement. Then we used Mapei screed, which was cheaper, so I hope we didn't make a mistake there.
There are some pitfalls in the construction. The grooved board has good bending stiffness "lengthwise," but it barely holds when lifted crosswise (the grooves almost go through the board). This means that especially at the return grooves where the hose turns, you need to support it properly so that the board gets good support.
Then there are some differing opinions on screeding over Al plate. Mapei has a special primer (not noticeably more expensive than ordinary primer) that should be used on aluminum. There is apparently a risk of a chemical reaction between the screed and the metal, the primer insulates.
An alternative (which you should check with the screed manufacturer) is to use grooved 22mm particle boards (grooves for loops), heat distribution plates, which should be screwed with an awful lot of screws. In this construction, it's important that the plates are properly fastened.
Then you lay reinforcement mesh and pour 20-30mm screed (exact thickness should be verified with the manufacturer). It might be enough with 15mm screed. We did this in one of the bathrooms, used 30mm screed because I didn't trust that the grooved board was as stiff as a regular particle board. According to the screed manufacturer (MAXIT), you should be able to have a very bad floor underneath if you screed 30mm with reinforcement. Then we used Mapei screed, which was cheaper, so I hope we didn't make a mistake there.
There are some pitfalls in the construction. The grooved board has good bending stiffness "lengthwise," but it barely holds when lifted crosswise (the grooves almost go through the board). This means that especially at the return grooves where the hose turns, you need to support it properly so that the board gets good support.
Then there are some differing opinions on screeding over Al plate. Mapei has a special primer (not noticeably more expensive than ordinary primer) that should be used on aluminum. There is apparently a risk of a chemical reaction between the screed and the metal, the primer insulates.
I KNOW that cc30 AND double plasterboard work. I wouldn't build any weaker than that, but it can work.
Johan Gunwerth on the forum has made an interesting solution I think. CC60 on the joist, glued/screwed floor chipboard, pipes in upside-down plates, primer, 31mm fine concrete, adhesive, tiles.
Johan Gunwerth on the forum has made an interesting solution I think. CC60 on the joist, glued/screwed floor chipboard, pipes in upside-down plates, primer, 31mm fine concrete, adhesive, tiles.
What dimension is the wooden joist?
I don't quite understand your sparse framing with 28x120. Increasing the width doesn't specifically contribute to stiffness as far as I know. If you have space, you could replace your sparse framing with 45x70 and lay it flat at an appropriate center-to-center distance. I believe that would make it even stiffer.
I don't quite understand your sparse framing with 28x120. Increasing the width doesn't specifically contribute to stiffness as far as I know. If you have space, you could replace your sparse framing with 45x70 and lay it flat at an appropriate center-to-center distance. I believe that would make it even stiffer.
Can give you a few more good reasons:
Easy to walk on while working
Plenty of space to screw the upper layer on - less risk of stepping on the hose.
If you can allow as much as 45mm on the sparse panel, then there are probably better solutions overall. 45x70 is so sparse that it's hardly enough with one layer of gypsum on top, maybe not even two.
Easy to walk on while working
Plenty of space to screw the upper layer on - less risk of stepping on the hose.
If you can allow as much as 45mm on the sparse panel, then there are probably better solutions overall. 45x70 is so sparse that it's hardly enough with one layer of gypsum on top, maybe not even two.
Glue strips of plywood on the side otherwise it will become stiff as f*n
The centimeters prescribed on top of the loop are there to distribute the heat, preventing a hot-striped floor. This problem is fixed in this solution using the upside-down plates that distribute the heat considerably better.
Clever.
Clever.
I prefer that the building height does not exceed the surrounding floor, which in total builds 53 mm from the joist, and it will if you cast 30-35 mm under the tiles.
Do you have to glue the floor gypsum?
Do you have to glue the floor gypsum?
Double floor plasterboards are glued together.
53 mm is exactly what Johan's solution builds + tiles of course. It will be perfect?
Joists at cc30+ 22mm sparse + double floor plasterboards do build a bit lower, 48mm.
53 mm is exactly what Johan's solution builds + tiles of course. It will be perfect?
Joists at cc30+ 22mm sparse + double floor plasterboards do build a bit lower, 48mm.
The Glesen is 28+ Double floor gypsum, 26 + tile 7 Then I'm up to 61 mm without even having adhesive underneath. ;-)
28mm sparse is unnecessary on cc30 joists and perhaps not sufficient on cc60 (at least I wouldn't vouch for it).
On the other hand, a 10-20mm difference from other floors is "nothing" and a threshold or threshold strip easily fixes this. You won't think about this for more than a couple of days.
On the other hand, a 10-20mm difference from other floors is "nothing" and a threshold or threshold strip easily fixes this. You won't think about this for more than a couple of days.