I'm going to try leveling a floor of about 8 square meters. I've never done it before, and it will be a good first project since I plan to put a Platon membrane and Styrofoam on top, so no one will see if it doesn't turn out well 
...
In any case, I was out checking some self-leveling compound at the hardware store and saw something called flowability. I asked in the store, but the staff couldn't answer what it was (confidence-inspiring!?!!?). What is flowability anyway? There was something mentioned about a ring of 30 in diameter on a plexiglass plate that was some size?!?!?!?!?
I won't be leveling too high, but it will probably be 3 cm in some places since the floor is quite uneven after the chiseling, in any case, I think I need to self-level more than once, and I'm wondering if I need to prime between the leveling or if it's enough to prime the first time against the concrete? Also wondering if I should dry the leveling with a construction fan, or if in that case, it might dry too quickly?
...In any case, I was out checking some self-leveling compound at the hardware store and saw something called flowability. I asked in the store, but the staff couldn't answer what it was (confidence-inspiring!?!!?). What is flowability anyway? There was something mentioned about a ring of 30 in diameter on a plexiglass plate that was some size?!?!?!?!?
I won't be leveling too high, but it will probably be 3 cm in some places since the floor is quite uneven after the chiseling
, in any case, I think I need to self-level more than once, and I'm wondering if I need to prime between the leveling or if it's enough to prime the first time against the concrete? Also wondering if I should dry the leveling with a construction fan, or if in that case, it might dry too quickly?Flowability is a way to describe how "runny" the self-leveling compound is, using a standardized measurement method. Compare pouring out a deciliter of yogurt versus a deciliter of milk on a flat surface. The milk has higher flowability and therefore spreads out more to a smoother surface.
If you are applying self-leveling compound in several layers, you should always prime before each new layer. The priming is partly to ensure that water is not drawn away from the newly applied layer of self-leveling compound. Also, keep in mind that the layers should not be too thin, and after applying a layer, it must dry for perhaps 12 hours before you can prime it.
You definitely should not crank up a construction heater! The water in the compound should not evaporate; it should be chemically bound in the compound. If the water evaporates or is absorbed into the substrate, the compound layer will have significantly impaired properties.
If you are applying self-leveling compound in several layers, you should always prime before each new layer. The priming is partly to ensure that water is not drawn away from the newly applied layer of self-leveling compound. Also, keep in mind that the layers should not be too thin, and after applying a layer, it must dry for perhaps 12 hours before you can prime it.
You definitely should not crank up a construction heater! The water in the compound should not evaporate; it should be chemically bound in the compound. If the water evaporates or is absorbed into the substrate, the compound layer will have significantly impaired properties.
Ardex, but expensive. If you buy the right flow, it will be great. Don't forget to seal in floor angles, thresholds, otherwise the flow will run away. There are also height pins to glue to the floor. Feel free to use a wide notched trowel.
With, for example, Maxit 4360 you can apply filler up to 80 mm, but I understand you as having problems with ground moisture due to the platonmat? In that case, it becomes trickier with the choice of self-leveling compound, so check with the supplier that it can withstand the incoming moisture, or cast it instead.
.
Well, not that I know of, but I'm considering the following. Platon, insulation, electric floor heating, tiles. And since it's a 70s house with a ground slab without insulation/or very little insulation under the slab, the protection with platon feels like a good thing...
With regular concrete do you mean? Isn't that harder to get even and good?
Last edited:
Borrowing the thread a bit.
You are talking about how thick layers can be floated at most. My question is how thin layers are possible?
I want to float a 2 - 5 mm thick layer in my hallway. Is this possible?
By the way, I plan to lay without underfloor heating because I have residents below. That is, the joists maintain a decent temperature. Does anyone have experience with this, does it work well?
You are talking about how thick layers can be floated at most. My question is how thin layers are possible?
I want to float a 2 - 5 mm thick layer in my hallway. Is this possible?
By the way, I plan to lay without underfloor heating because I have residents below. That is, the joists maintain a decent temperature. Does anyone have experience with this, does it work well?
Maxit 4320: minimum thickness 4 mm according to the datasheet.bästedräng said:
If it's going to be completely flat anyway, then a full float is preferable. Floor 4160 also comes down to my 2 mm.
Having residents below or not doesn't significantly affect the floor's temperature from what I've noticed, whether we lived on the 3rd floor of an apartment or on the second floor of our own house. What matters is what kind of floor you have. Where we have oak strip parquet (60s model with solid strips about 8 mm thick, not today's model which is more veneer on chipboard), it's never particularly cold on the floor, but in the bathroom with tile flooring, it's always cold; both rooms are upstairs. Tiles, laminate = underfloor heating, but with wall-to-wall carpet, I think underfloor heating is almost wasted.bästedräng said: