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6 replies
13k views
6 replies
Type of Tongue and Groove Paneling for Feature Wall?
I was thinking of making a feature wall with something like rough sawn wood in a gable room. I've heard there's something other than rough sawn wood that's more suitable? Not quite so "raw" in structure and with thinner boards so it doesn't build out as much. Probably something with a lower moisture content too.. Anyone have any idea what I mean? And where to buy it? Very thankful for answers!
Also, tips and advice on things to consider when making such a feature wall are gratefully received! I've searched on the subject but maybe used the wrong search terms as I haven't found much.
Also, tips and advice on things to consider when making such a feature wall are gratefully received! I've searched on the subject but maybe used the wrong search terms as I haven't found much.
You can start by checking with Beijer. In Kalmar, they have it in stock. It comes in dimensions of 15*120 and 15*145, unfortunately expensive in small quantities, over 20 SEK per linear meter, so even if you need a smaller batch, I suggest you talk to a salesperson about a better price. It is pure extortion....
But as you say, it is nicer than the raw paneling usually used as a subroof, especially more even in quality. You will get drying gaps of a few mm (unless you explicitly ensure it is properly dried beforehand, or store it indoors for a long time...) so it is highly recommended that you paint at least the tongue and groove before nailing. It's easy if you stack all the panels and paint all (multiple) sides at once.
Depending on what you have to nail into behind, it's a hot tip to make sure to buy/borrow/rent a nail gun in a suitable size. Nailing by hand is a real drag but a pure joy with a gun.
We have it in abundance in the house, and a smooth way to paint it is with façade stain. We use Alcro's outdoor stain called "Timmer" (formerly Fasadlasyr V). It is water-based and easy to work with.
But as you say, it is nicer than the raw paneling usually used as a subroof, especially more even in quality. You will get drying gaps of a few mm (unless you explicitly ensure it is properly dried beforehand, or store it indoors for a long time...) so it is highly recommended that you paint at least the tongue and groove before nailing. It's easy if you stack all the panels and paint all (multiple) sides at once.
Depending on what you have to nail into behind, it's a hot tip to make sure to buy/borrow/rent a nail gun in a suitable size. Nailing by hand is a real drag but a pure joy with a gun.
We have it in abundance in the house, and a smooth way to paint it is with façade stain. We use Alcro's outdoor stain called "Timmer" (formerly Fasadlasyr V). It is water-based and easy to work with.
THOUSAND THANKS for your response!!! Well, 20 SEK was a bit steep considering regular råspont is at 5.. But one can always ask around..
Maybe I'll do a round and see what the different places have. It might be an idea to go with plain råspont after all.. A few cracks are quite nice, but it shouldn’t be too much.. Hmm.. and there's that quality issue..
Painting them stacked was a brilliant tip!!! Thanks for that!
Regarding the nail gun.. The wall is some kind of fairly hard type of wood board, so I was wondering if a screwdriver could be used - for convenience reasons..
But I guess it looks better with nails? And if so, a nail gun sounds like a sensible investment (considering putting up such a wall in more places if it turns out well).
Fasadlasyr? How does that work? Is it opaque but you can still see the wood grain through it?
Lasyr sounds transparent to me, but maybe I'm thinking wrong?
Anyhow, thanks a million for your response!!
Maybe I'll do a round and see what the different places have. It might be an idea to go with plain råspont after all.. A few cracks are quite nice, but it shouldn’t be too much.. Hmm.. and there's that quality issue..
Painting them stacked was a brilliant tip!!! Thanks for that!
Regarding the nail gun.. The wall is some kind of fairly hard type of wood board, so I was wondering if a screwdriver could be used - for convenience reasons..
But I guess it looks better with nails? And if so, a nail gun sounds like a sensible investment (considering putting up such a wall in more places if it turns out well).
Fasadlasyr? How does that work? Is it opaque but you can still see the wood grain through it?
Lasyr sounds transparent to me, but maybe I'm thinking wrong?
Anyhow, thanks a million for your response!!
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· Göteborg
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You're probably looking for "slätspont." It's usually made of spruce. I have some myself in the basement in the dimensions 13x118. It wasn't particularly expensive as far as I remember.
But there is a significant difference between a sawn and a planed surface, where I've encountered tongue and groove, it has been planed, but I also know that there are far too many different local names for the same types of panel, so what I have is surely called tongue and groove in some places.Johan Gunverth said:
The nice thing about stain is that it covers more and more depending on how many layers you apply. And yes, you do see the wood's texture, that's the point. If you change your mind, you can just paint over it. I also haven't had any problems with knots showing through, probably because it's an outdoor paint that contains something that prevents resin bleed-through. Applies to white stain after 7 years. (Other woodwork that I missed shellacking has resin bleed-through)tralopp said:
My brother-in-law nailed Byggmax's cheapest pine flooring as wall paneling. In my opinion, it turned out very nicely. It's fairly dry, planed, and relatively cheap, currently about 11 kronor per meter or a hundred per square meter.
That sounds great! And since it's a water-based paint, maybe I won't have to deal with a strong smell?Totte_S said:The nice thing about the glaze is that it covers more and more depending on how many layers you apply. And yes, you do see the structure of the wood, that's the point. If you change your mind, you can simply paint over it. I also haven't had any problems with knots showing through, likely because it's an outdoor paint that contains something that prevents resin bleed-through. Applies to white glaze after 7 years. (Other woodwork that I missed shellacking has resin bleed-through)
I painted moldings one New Year and had a pounding headache for several days.
I am planning to seal the knots anyway since it's not a large amount of wood. Just to be safe.
I have now been out and bought rough sawn timber for 4.90 per meter, it's quite nice and was available in lengths of 3.3 at Cheapy.
At Woddy I found the panel I was looking for, I think they called it "board wall." VERY NICE but WOW how expensive! 20 kr per meter. So since I'm not a professional, I think I can afford to "play with" a wall for around 200 kr but not for four times that amount.
I was at Byggmax too, but their rough sawn timber lengths were so long that they didn't fit in the horse trailer.
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