Hello!
How do you actually build the exterior trim for a window or a door, with drip cap and sill, when the window is slightly "recessed"?
I mean, I know how we've done it before, but I wonder if it's correct...
How do you actually build the exterior trim for a window or a door, with drip cap and sill, when the window is slightly "recessed"?
I mean, I know how we've done it before, but I wonder if it's correct...
The actual molding is not really affected by the window being "recessed," what happens is you put a reveal, like a frame, between the casing and the molding. The reveal is thus mounted on the inside of the facade opening with the inner edge against the casing. Then the molding is mounted against the facade panel and the outer edge of the reveal so that the molding, when viewed from the outside, is flush with the reveal, therefore it does not extend further over the casing than the reveal does.
The head flashing is not affected at all by the window being "recessed" because it is usually mounted above the upper molding board with the raised edge at the back under the panel (actually all the way under the batten or even further, but here people do it a bit differently. Especially when doing a retrofit on an existing facade, it can be difficult to reach that far in.)
The sill flashing is usually mounted so that it extends from side molding to side molding with a raised edge against the molding/reveal at the ends. It is not affected by the "recessed" aspect other than that you need to use a deeper flashing so that it reaches far enough out.
For examples of how to work with the flashings, see page 14 in http://www.plannja.com/upload/SE/Documents/Broschyrer/Takavvattning_06.pdf
The head flashing is not affected at all by the window being "recessed" because it is usually mounted above the upper molding board with the raised edge at the back under the panel (actually all the way under the batten or even further, but here people do it a bit differently. Especially when doing a retrofit on an existing facade, it can be difficult to reach that far in.)
The sill flashing is usually mounted so that it extends from side molding to side molding with a raised edge against the molding/reveal at the ends. It is not affected by the "recessed" aspect other than that you need to use a deeper flashing so that it reaches far enough out.
For examples of how to work with the flashings, see page 14 in http://www.plannja.com/upload/SE/Documents/Broschyrer/Takavvattning_06.pdf
Sure, I understand that you need a flashing, I was more thinking about the execution. We've attached the trim itself on the outer facade board of the panel (overlapping panel), but for example, on the neighbor's house, the trim is level with the outer board. He also doesn't have any flashing on any of his windows, but the top board on the panel ends in the upper trim.
How is the trim usually attached then? When we added insulation, we screwed it into the old wooden facade with angle irons, but that doesn't quite work 100% when you don't have an old wooden facade to screw into (like on the newly built garage, for example). Any tips?
How is the trim usually attached then? When we added insulation, we screwed it into the old wooden facade with angle irons, but that doesn't quite work 100% when you don't have an old wooden facade to screw into (like on the newly built garage, for example). Any tips?
It depends a bit on the facade type, doesn't it? If you have a board-and-batten siding ("ribb"), you usually place the trims on top of the baseboards, flush with the battens. If you have a relatively smooth siding (most are tongue-and-groove), the trims are usually placed on top. But on board-and-batten siding, as you've also seen, people do different things; there doesn't seem to be a right or wrong there. I think it looks a bit more elegant to have it like your neighbor, i.e., on the baseboards and flush with the battens, but it should also be a bit more difficult because you then have to consider the windows to ensure it is symmetrical and nice around them when calculating the distances for the boards.
Skipping flashing like your neighbor is not recommended, but some do so on windows that are close under a wide eave, and in that case, it's probably reasonably safe anyway.
If you have the trims on top of the siding (at least on top of the baseboards), you nail or screw the trims into the siding. I also nailed them into the rebate because I have relatively strong timber there, 28 mm.
Skipping flashing like your neighbor is not recommended, but some do so on windows that are close under a wide eave, and in that case, it's probably reasonably safe anyway.
If you have the trims on top of the siding (at least on top of the baseboards), you nail or screw the trims into the siding. I also nailed them into the rebate because I have relatively strong timber there, 28 mm.
Taking your opinions into account. It will probably be like it was before.
The last part: Yes, but how do you attach the actual smygen?
The last part: Yes, but how do you attach the actual smygen?
Attach the trim flush with the bottom boards.
For vertical bottom boards, attach to the batten adjacent to the window, or only to the sides of the bottom boards.
For horizontal bottom boards, it's sufficient to attach the trim to the stud closest to the window frame.
When you screw or nail the casings in place, the trim is pressed against the window frame, and any gap that might occur due to unevenness between the trim and the window can be sealed with outdoor silicone to prevent water from seeping between the trim and the window frame.
I attached the trim "loosely" to the vertical bottom boards, to some stud, and screwed them in with the casings. Then I tightened everything under "fitting" to make it straight...
For vertical bottom boards, attach to the batten adjacent to the window, or only to the sides of the bottom boards.
For horizontal bottom boards, it's sufficient to attach the trim to the stud closest to the window frame.
When you screw or nail the casings in place, the trim is pressed against the window frame, and any gap that might occur due to unevenness between the trim and the window can be sealed with outdoor silicone to prevent water from seeping between the trim and the window frame.
I attached the trim "loosely" to the vertical bottom boards, to some stud, and screwed them in with the casings. Then I tightened everything under "fitting" to make it straight...