Building Materials and Construction Technology
surfarn: [citat] Interesting, is it a single-story house with a flat roof or two stories? I'm a bit curious about your house, I've read many of your posts and it would be fun to see some pictures of it.
Tokv41: [citat] Yes, exactly, that's probably it but it still feels quite odd because I guess that most post spikes are used for fences, gates, decks and similar and then it's usually pressure-treated that's used and that seems to mostly be available in 95mm... But even if you don't want pressure-treated, I don't see the point in buying glulam posts when you can instead buy the same post spike but in
mhacker: Hello, I'm planning to build the kitchen island at home now and was initially thinking of a simple construction with a U-shaped "frame" in 25mm MDF (two short sides and a long side screwed at the corners) on which the countertop (60 kg) is placed and fastened with some angle brackets on the inside of the frame. Do you think this will hold? A coworker thought that screwing MDF to MDF in that way
Plura: My thought was to get concrete tips on places that a fellow forum member actually knows. Like construction X here and there has or I have demolished my outhouse and would rather not drive some of the material to the dump. /Pär
FredrikR: If you cut it off, you avoid a lot of spackling. :) I made the same mistake, though in a garage ceiling.
Nybyggarn: Yep, I have 5.5 meters between the supports without any side legs but the beam rests on more supports which helps (the person who helped me calculate the beam was very particular that it should not be cut). If you're only going to support it on the outer ends, you might have to increase the size, but check with a designer, this is simple for them, and if you're going to have 220 joists, you can
ByggareNick: Yes, it's on the height, measure it so maybe you won't be disappointed. You don't need to skip the expansion. You can place a plintrad outside the slab where you extend the joists with thicker studs. I feel a paint sketch is in order to be able to understand.
Mattias_Jo1: Do I really need to remove every layer of wallpaper on the chimney before tiling, or is it enough to just prime and then lay the tiles? A lot of fiddling...
barajag: [citat] Of course, you're right, I got sidetracked on the issue when I thought about the places where it ends up on the inside, :blushing: for example, apartment buildings where you have to follow the life of the entire wall, you then have to place it where it must be. I usually chip away the edge a bit to create an outward slope. But as I wrote, calculate so that it ends up on the
barajag: [citat] Personally, I have no knowledge of that, unfortunately. But try digging down a couple of dm and stick a knife in them to see the condition of the wood.
Kemisten: [citat] The air gap between the panel and the paper/wind barrier is so that the panel can dry (quickly enough) when it has been exposed to rain and such. Is the panel made of tongue-and-groove boards? The risk is that if it doesn't work, you might have to replace more than just the panel when you check, perhaps also including the insulation (which will be more expensive). Now, I don't think there
anaitis: [citat] It is still an excellent material. You just can't build new with it. But if it's already there, it lasts almost forever.
kalubah: I wrote a little wrong. If I understand correctly (your picture becomes quite small on my computer...), your floor joists rest on your "homemade beams." What I meant is that the load from these exerts a greater pressure on the inner beam. As you say, the inner beam will give somewhat, and force will be transferred to the outer one, however, you must have extremely stiff floor joists (and
Robban_Hedlund: Thank you for the answers, I will have to reconsider. I will never be able to fit the staircase in the kitchen.
hempularen: I have discovered a somewhat concerning phenomenon. Last fall, I was supposed to fill around a newly built basement staircase, and I put styrofoam on the retaining wall. I glued the styrofoam with PL600 so that it would stay in place until it was filled. I never got around to ordering gravel, etc. (a crane arm truck is needed to scoop it into the right place). Winter came, lots of snow, etc. I
zingo: The previous owners claim they only consume 11,000 kWh per year with a bottom plate of about 60 sqm on "two" floors. So it doesn't seem like much is leaking. They do sometimes burn wood in the open fireplace, which I will also do. I have an immense amount of wood that I need to use for something. :) As it is now, it seems to heat the basement. They have tiles on the entire ground floor but have
källare: I've replastered my recreation room, where the walls consist of leca and concrete blocks. I knocked down all existing plaster and cleaned it with a wire brush and vacuum cleaner. Then I brushed on primer and set up guide strips and galvanized plaster mesh. The next day, I plastered with C-mortar, Serpo 244. After a month, the walls were painted with silicate paint. I'm very satisfied with the
woodrat: Hello, I am going to renovate my gavel balcony. It currently has a simple decking of pressure-treated wood with a 5 mm gap so I can see directly down to the ground below. Does anyone have a gavel balcony with a nicer floor solution? I want more of an "indoor floor feel" and something easy to maintain in good condition. How is the floor built on a new gavel balcony today? Pressure-treated wood
anaitis: [citat] Almost right With two beams side by side, the following happens: The moment of inertia doubles. The stress is halved. The deflection is halved. No difference if they are screwed together. You were probably thinking of changes in span length.
Tovelainen: Hello I am going to renovate an old laundry room, about 10 square meters, in an outbuilding of a skånelänga from the 1800s. It will become a workshop. The laundry room has not been used for a long time. There is no proper drainage - the water ran out over the cement floor and then down a hole where it flowed out onto the ground outside. Therefore, the lower part of the walls is quite porous.
Tokv41: I think it will be an enormous job to mill out, and at the back, it's not possible because the step sticks out above, and then the question is whether I would gain much from it? You mean that one can fold the carpet down into the milling? Doubtful that it would turn out well, but as I said, I think it will take at least as long as making new nose pieces... There are just so many angles...
Simpsson: [citat] This seems to be a good solution! Thanks for the tips from you all
bonnen: Oh, I missed some info there I see :) of course, there should be columns, it will be 4 columns per beam so the distance between the columns will be 5 meters.
mycke_nu: Was there a program on TV recently, Grand Designs I believe, where they cast a concrete roof with surely a 35-degree angle in Spain. Heat certainly helps. Quick-setting concrete could be an alternative, sets in 30 minutes, but it is expensive.
Mats: What strikes me is the transportation. Multiple trips cost money as well, but if you can load other things at the same time, maybe the transport was needed anyway, etc. And yes, as a northerner, there are some distances sometimes. A building supply store wants 1800 to deliver to me, but that's regardless of whether it's a package of nails or a full truck. The material prices they list in the
barajag: [citat] Can't give you any direct answers to your questions, it's quite complex because even if you write a bit, you can fill pages about regulations for energy consumption, moisture, etc. (or link to various pages). I think along the same lines, but the more I google about energy-efficient houses, passive houses, and other innovative buildings, the more confused I become.:rolleyes: But why I