Recessed edges on drywall, what is the correct placement of these according to standards?
Member
· Västra Götaland
· 1 711 posts
The standard problem: common plasterboards 13x2700x1200/900, or alternatively root gypsum at 6 mm, to be installed in a regular indoor room as the outermost layer, followed by painting or wallpapering.
Putting untouched edges (factory-recessed long sides, that is) together when joining in the middle of the room is obvious, as is taping the seams with paper tape.
But how does one do it according to standard (how do the pros do it) since there are always inner corners, edges against doors/windows, or some outer corners in some cases?
Or more concretely, in most cases, I at least want factory-cut chamfers both in corners and outer corners, as well as windows/doors, but it's a physical impossibility (unless, of course, everything is built with 1200 spacing everywhere...)
At least one side has to be cut; you could also place studs so that both ends of a wall can be cut.
Against doors/windows, it matters less, either a cut edge or chamfered, as there will always be trim on top. But a cut edge above/below the window is undesirable because it is worse against the plasterboard above/below the window.
In outer corners with metal edges or whatever it's called, you also want it recessed.
In inner corners, a recessed edge, since you place paper tape and spackle there.
Is there a "right" way?
Putting untouched edges (factory-recessed long sides, that is) together when joining in the middle of the room is obvious, as is taping the seams with paper tape.
But how does one do it according to standard (how do the pros do it) since there are always inner corners, edges against doors/windows, or some outer corners in some cases?
Or more concretely, in most cases, I at least want factory-cut chamfers both in corners and outer corners, as well as windows/doors, but it's a physical impossibility (unless, of course, everything is built with 1200 spacing everywhere...)
At least one side has to be cut; you could also place studs so that both ends of a wall can be cut.
Against doors/windows, it matters less, either a cut edge or chamfered, as there will always be trim on top. But a cut edge above/below the window is undesirable because it is worse against the plasterboard above/below the window.
In outer corners with metal edges or whatever it's called, you also want it recessed.
In inner corners, a recessed edge, since you place paper tape and spackle there.
Is there a "right" way?
Diversearbetare
· Göteborg
· 11 254 posts
If it's c/c 600 on wall studs, you naturally start with a half 1200-board with the cut edge towards the inner corner.
Inner corners with a recessed edge are hopeless to plaster nicely if you're not a professional. I haven't seen any carpenter install it that way. Moreover, the plastered strip with a "straight" edge is not visible anyway.
For outer corners, I know the board manufacturers want them with a straight edge because the recessed edge is weaker. With a corner protector, I find it hard to believe it would be weaker, and you also get a completely smooth corner as the edge of the corner protector and the rest of the plasterboard align.
Inner corners with a recessed edge are hopeless to plaster nicely if you're not a professional. I haven't seen any carpenter install it that way. Moreover, the plastered strip with a "straight" edge is not visible anyway.
For outer corners, I know the board manufacturers want them with a straight edge because the recessed edge is weaker. With a corner protector, I find it hard to believe it would be weaker, and you also get a completely smooth corner as the edge of the corner protector and the rest of the plasterboard align.
Member
· Västerbotten, Skellefteå
· 416 posts
Most often, you don't just put up a single plasterboard on a wall; you should have a plywood or OSB on the studs. Then you can screw the plasterboard anywhere, and you start in the corners by cutting away the indentation about 8 cm and placing it flush against the corner. You can also split it in half, then turn it around and take the other part from the other corner, minimizing waste and getting a perfect corner without filler.
I find inner corners easiest to start with a cut board, straight, and accurately cut. Then you don't spackle this corner at all but simply use a thin acrylic sealant.
edit: might work less well for a painted wall, without embedding a strip. But for a wallpapered wall, it's great.
Outer corners with a metal angle are probably best with a beveled edge on both sides, as the beveling creates space for the metal angle and embedding it.
edit: might work less well for a painted wall, without embedding a strip. But for a wallpapered wall, it's great.
Outer corners with a metal angle are probably best with a beveled edge on both sides, as the beveling creates space for the metal angle and embedding it.