Hello.
I was going to replace an old door and frame at home to reverse it.
But the problem is that the hole for the frame is 94 cm wide and not 90 as it should be.
Does anyone know how to solve this problem because with wedges I'll need 4, and that's not good.
So when I wedge at the top and bottom, the frame bends, what am I doing wrong then?
I've never installed a frame before, so tips on how to do it are welcome, preferably "idiot-proof" tips, can't get it right as it wasn't as easy as I thought, but it rarely is :P

Regards

Jonas
 
Ola78
If I understood correctly, you are planning to install a 900mm door? Then you have a frame exterior dimension of about 880, which is always the opening size minus 15 to 20 for space for caulking. So 940-880=60mm, go buy 28mm thick boards, cut them to fit the thickness of the wall, and nail them into the door opening so your frame will fit well afterward.
 
So smart and good, thank you for the help.
Should one wedge in any particular order then? Is there much adjustment room you have with the karmskruven?
 
Either you use shims and screw the frame in place or you use karmskruv. So you don't need to use shims when you use karmskruv.
 
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Oscarvon
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Oh well, they came as a surprise... I always thought you needed wedges even if you had frame screws. Perfect, now I know, thanks for the help. The frame screws are a bit tricky but it should work :P
 
Ola78
verktygsgurun said:
You either use shims and screw the frame in place or you use frame screws. So you don’t need shims when using frame screws.
If you use frame screws, you probably need shims, but not if you use a karmhylsa. You screw in the karmhylsa from the back of the frame and then shim the frame against the wall using the hylsorna.
 
  • Metal fasteners including a frame sleeve and screws for door or window frame installation on a white background.
Thanks for all the tips, this forum is absolutely amazing. Wonder how people managed before the internet existed ;)
Smart with the sleeves, I'll have to try that. Seems really convenient compared to using wedges... I thought the regular frame screws were a bit stubborn.
 
Would it become unsteady with frame screws, you mean? Yes, there is a certain play in a frame screw, but for casement windows and interior doors, regular frame screws are quite sufficient. Sleeves are recommended, however, for heavier doors and side-hinged windows with triple glazing. One should use very short sleeves for interior doors since the frame is not that thick.
 
I don't think Ola78 meant that it becomes too unstable with regular frame screws, but that you need to wedge the frame before you screw these in. (Even if you might remove these later.)
 
The wedges have their little advantage during assembly until the frame is level and correct in every way. Once you've screwed in the frame screw, it's impossible to move 5 mm; the screw seeks its way back into the old hole.

Protte
 
Ola78
But if you do it like this: measure the hole in the frame, then the hole in the opening and take the difference divided by 2 and adjust the frame sleeve to that measurement or somewhat smaller. When you've placed the frame, slightly expand the sleeve so the frame is under tension, and then there are no problems mounting the frame. I've installed both windows and doors this way.
 
Don't forget to add the loose threshold, otherwise it will be difficult to extend the sleeves. How long do sleeves work on indoor doors?
 
Ola78
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