Building Materials and Construction Technology
kashieda: The libellerna are usually adjusted to have the correct side up - now you have turned the passport upside down.
mattie_river: [citat] It's the hatched area on the left that needs to be lower. That area is closest to the load-bearing wall the floor level is on. The entire span of the level is about 5.2 meters. Let's put it this way - if one were to sand the concrete to make it a visible floor, you would probably need to take 1 - 1.5 cm to "sand through" all the pits and unevenness. I'm a bit unsure, but it might be that
Oxymoron: [citat] Thanks, I was thinking more about panel and window sealing as shown in the picture above, as well as what the floor inside should be painted in.
Zixten: Two different thoughts. A canoe cart, but then the canoes would have to be on the ground, though it can be used to transport the canoe to the water if it's walking distance.... https://www.jula.se/catalog/fritid/bat/batar/kajaker/kanotvagn-000921/?gclsrc=aw.ds&gad_source=1&gad_campaignid=19583506998&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI7_yIq-rYjgMVvVKRBR0m9St3EAQYAyABEgK2TvD_BwE Or Keel roller, should be able to
Shea_1: Hello! What surface treatment for a pine handrail is recommended if you want to keep the pine light?
Dan_Johansson: [citat] The reinforcement should only take tensile loads? I thought it was easy to understand?
Awareonwi: I had the same issue when I moved into a house with lightweight walls. I ended up using chem anchors into the concrete floor instead. If you're still trying to figure out the best option, you can check out https://www.libertysafe.com/collections/home-safes —they've got some good info and options that might save you some time and guesswork.
z_bumbi: Isn't it just a matter of asking any hardware store except Byggmax and Jem & Fix to order it?
plan-g: [citat] Thanks for the answer! Is there anything you think didn't turn out well? Does the uneven surface bother you? Does it hold up well? I would be very grateful if you could take a picture of the surface texture.
Mikael_L: Is it the ground floor? Do you have a concrete slab on the ground?
useless: If the shed is from the 60s, then it is not a friggebod. And that's probably a good thing since a friggebod can only be 3 meters high.
Oldboy: [citat] In principle, yes. As long as the panel is sufficiently well fastened, as well as what it's attached to. If it's a thin 12 mm panel, it requires 30-40 cm center-to-center joists or battens underneath; otherwise, there's a risk of sagging. You can get a sense of this by pressing lightly on the ceiling at various points to feel how much it flexes, assuming the fastening isn't visible. Edit:
Tore Skogman: [citat] Hah, yes for me it took 7 years before I sorted out the problem.. It snagged 2-3 times but it was mainly when cutting into new materials. It also has some kind of anti-kick function that shut off the machine, so there were no crazy snags.
FxJ: Hello, we have a house built in '62 where the foundation wall (crawl space with dehumidifier) is plastered with so-called roughcast. It looks decent but has come loose in some places, and the ground level is somewhat lower now in a few areas since we drained and there is completely missing plaster. The foundation is built with hollow cement blocks. Now to the question, can I smooth plaster
Thomas808: Hello! In one of our outbuildings, there is a root cellar where I'm thinking of replacing the ceiling because it is damaged by rot. Above the root cellar is a loft used for cold storage. I have torn up the ceiling and removed all the sawdust and the old ceiling. The sawdust was damp on the lower part, closest to the ceiling, and the ceiling was very rotten. However, the floor of the loft is in
perka99: I finally dug around the plinth, toppled it, and filled it back in.
howhardcoulditbe: Hello! I'm renovating my glass veranda from around 1935. Part of the sill on one short side needs to be replaced as it has completely rotted (falls apart and the floor sags in that corner when you walk). About 70 cm needs to be replaced. I have a 1.5-ton jack, can I manage with that, or do I need 2? The veranda is about 2 x 3 m in size. Should I consider anything else special? I've never replaced
Tuff-Emil: [citat] Answering myself then 😉 After asking at three different building supply stores, googling (and lately starting to find my own question and pictures on this forum), I needed to get started so it gets done eventually. I mixed a slightly wetter fine concrete, wetted the granite stones before my wife and I placed them directly on the fine concrete. Then we "surfed" and hopped on the stones
Harrison2667: [citat] Quality foam low expansion. Don't fill everything the first time if you're just a beginner. Put enough to set the door. Make sure all is good. Add a screw to tweak. Then total foam. Set. Then remove screw. Shim the door/frame gap. Then that won't move and bind later when foam sets. Foam is always better in my opinion
fribygg: [citat] Wide insulated lecablocks or Ytong are probably better, leca conducts cold quite well.
Crayo: Hi I'm going to install new flooring and was thinking of cutting the old one just at the legs of the kitchen cabinets. That way, the joint will be covered by the baseboard afterwards (ikea) But my Ryobi won't quite fit under the cabinet because of the battery. Is there any machine that is smaller?
Olf Oggler: I can now report that it is fine to cut 20mm granite ceramic with such a simple saw. The limitation is the table surface which provides somewhat weak support for 90x60 tiles.
sofftis: [citat] How much does it cost to order a door from you, 80 wide storage door? We checked Byggmax and Bauhaus and weren't too happy because they pinch. Landskrona
Sf80: Hello! We have a small chamber that was clad with masonite boards, and underneath there's an old fine beadboard. The chamber used to be a small kitchen, where we've now demolished the fixtures, knocked down tiles, and removed a piece of masonite above the tiles. The idea is to just tidy it up a bit so we can put in a dresser and put shelves on the wall, like smooth it out. But what material
stais: [citat] Thanks for the input. It is Jackon 350 HD
mattiasohult: [citat] Tongued and grooved 28x70 spacing panel, nailed into the rafters. The spacing is set at 30 cm on center.
Arne999: This is how I did it
Farstatjej90: [citat] "Yes, that's all we had today in Things That Never Happened. Next week: aliens."
Oldboy: I can't see that there would be any problems with load-bearing capacity. The only thing I would consider is lateral stability. Possibly place double beams under the glass section wall to wall. This is not needed for strength reasons, but only to make the wall more stable with less vibration/flex if someone leans against it.