Align outer wall with blocks - how?

[62_an]

I am about to straighten a 7m long and approximately 2.5m high exterior wall that is slanted and warped in various ways before installing exterior cladding. It's horizontal wood cladding and the studs in the wall are vertical. Since horizontal cladding is quite revealing, I want to get it as straight as possible.

One half of the 7m covers a warm room and is insulated; that part has fiberboard outside the studs. On the outside of the fiberboard, the plan is to attach battens directly parallell to each stud with the fiberboard in between.

The other half, which is an extension, covers a cold space. That half is also insulated but with a wind barrier on the outside. Thus, the battens are parallel on top of the studs with only the wind barrier in between.

The original plan was to use thinner battens, about 20mm. I am now considering spacing the battens according to guide strings and have therefore chosen a thicker batten of 34mm to avoid too many spacers and to be able to attach the cladding only to the battens so that the screws do not pull the battens into the studs between the spacers.

My considerations:
1. What should I use for spacers?
I need spacers between 2 - 15mm.
A carpenter might reflexively say Masonite. But I would like to have better resolution than 3-3.5mm increments, and in the smallest spots, 3mm is too much.
Can I use plastic shims available at hardware stores and, for example, at Biltema?
Are these made for permanent installation as in this case?
There shouldn't be any problem with UV light from the sun since it's behind the cladding, but could the plastic still age, and perhaps also react with the fiberboard?
There are adjustable round pillars from Plinto. According to Plinto, their plastic should handle outdoor environments and the load that primarily results from the tightening torque when installing the battens. However, I didn't ask about potential problems with the fiberboard.
Opinions, tips?

2. With 34mm battens and 600mm center-to-center distance between studs/battens, how close do the spacers need to be?
I'm thinking of a maximum of 500mm.
Is that sufficient?

Grateful for quick input!

/L-O

 

[Småbrukaren]

Wedges are probably available for purchase. A wood wedge might work but may not withstand moisture as well. I don't think plastic is a problem either.

 

[jonaserik]

To align the wall, it's either bulged out or in at the middle. You put a nailed strip absolutely plumb in each corner and buy spool wire, the same used for pipe insulation. Place a couple of screws and tighten a wire both at the top and bottom, then you have all the necessary measurements and can immediately see if it misses plus or minus. Shims work fine with cut pieces of the same dimensions as the nailed strip.

 

[62_an]

There are probably wedges available for purchase. Wood shavings wedges might work but perhaps don't withstand moisture as well. I don't think there are any problems with plastic either.

I've considered wedges, but most of the blocks would need to be around 5-10mm, and standard wedges have quite a steep incline, so before two wedges meet under battens that are 70mm wide, they're too high, and using just one wedge I don't think will work well.

 

[Kurtivan]

Is it possible to use karmskruv perhaps?

 

[62_an]

To straighten up the wall, it's either a bulge out or in at the middle. You place a nail batten absolutely plumb at each corner and buy a wire rope, the same used for pipe insulation. Insert a couple of screws and tighten a wire both at the top and bottom, then you have all the needed measurements and can immediately see if it's off by plus or minus. Padding works with cut pieces the same size as the nail batten.

Yes, I have done exactly that, two battens at the ends that are plumb with guide strings in between. So I can see roughly how thick a block should be, but you only know once you've tried and screwed everything tight, as the coordination boards compress a bit. So the question is what should I use as padding, that involves as little work as possible, but still provides a greater variation of size than hardboard and withstands permanent installation.

I have plastic shims that are fork-shaped, which I bought at some low-cost store. I don't trust these for permanent use, but they are practical for testing as you can slide them into place without unscrewing the whole screw.

But the question is, what should I replace them with when I have a measurement. I have been thinking about whether I need to saw wooden blocks with the table saw after testing with the plastic shims.

Or, use 'real' plastic shims that you buy at the hardware store. But then I'm back at square one: Are those intended for permanent installation with loads in both cold and heat??

 

[62_an]

Could perhaps frame screws be used?

I have also considered that. I have previously used frame sleeves in similar unconventional ways indoors.
But one thing I noticed is that the frame sleeve itself, whether they are loose sleeves or traditional frame screws, are quite fragile and can easily crack.
I'm also a bit uncertain about the corrosion resistance behind a panel, as the screw is usually just galvanized, and what material is the sleeve made of; perhaps it becomes even more vulnerable in that environment?
They are indeed used with windows in exterior walls but are then usually embedded in insulation.
But maybe still a thought...

 

[fribygg]

Yes, I have done exactly that, two battens at the ends that are plumb with guiding strings between them. So I see roughly how thick a block should be, but you only really know once you've tried and also screwed it tight, because the asfa boards compress a little. So the question is what I should place between, which involves as little work as possible, yet provides greater variation of measurements than masonite and can withstand permanent installation.
I have plastic spacers that are fork-shaped that I bought at some discount store. I don't trust these for permanent use, but they are practical to test with as you can slide them in place without unscrewing the entire screw.
But the question is what I should replace them with once I have a measurement.
I've been considering whether I need to cut wood blocks with the table saw after first testing with the plastic spacers.
Or, use 'real' plastic spacers that you buy at the hardware store.
But then I'm back at square 1 again:
Are such spacers intended for permanent installation with load in both cold and heat??

Shingles are quite good when aligning.