I have a cabin that was quite extensively renovated last year. It was previously uninsulated. Now it has a parallel roof with an air gap and eave ventilation. We installed a Mataki shingle roof but did not install ridge ventilation. Now I've been considering how big of a mistake that was, and I've probably concluded that it should be addressed. That is, to install Mataki's ridge ventilation afterward.

Does that sound sensible?

There is a vapor barrier in the roof, but there might still be moisture on the underside of the roof sheathing.

I am quite convinced that it's a good idea, but I would gladly welcome any input!

Attached are some pictures of how it looks and a sketch of the construction in cross-section.

After the old roof sheathing was removed.
Renovation of a wooden cottage with scaffolding, showing roof construction and insulation space under blue sky.

Here we have installed beadboard and a vapor barrier on the outside.
Scaffolding set up around a renovated cottage, showing new siding and roof work in progress under a clear blue sky.

The vapor barrier is visible, and the compartments for insulation.
Wooden roof construction with visible layers of insulation and vapor barrier, showcasing renovation progress under a clear blue sky. Ladder on the side.

The space that becomes the air gap.
A roof under construction showing a parallel roof with visible air gap, vapor barrier, and support beams, ready for insulation installation.

And a sketch:
Pencil sketch of a roof cross-section showing air gap, moisture barrier, beadboard, shingle, and ridge plate, with ventilation details and insulation placement.
 
With the small roof, I would have been satisfied with an air gap down by the eaves, which is also a common solution. The important thing is that the air gap is there.
 
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Yes, that might be enough. I would prefer to leave it as it is to avoid piercing a roof with the risk of leakage.
However, the roof is steep, 44 degrees.
Thank you for your response!
 
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