Building Materials and Construction Technology
Klodsmajor: Do you know why it looks the way it does? Based on its appearance, I would say it's best to tear it out and pour new. Consider whether you want to dig out and insulate, if it is uninsulated, i.e. Maybe take the opportunity to replace pipes etc. if these are of an older standard.
snowjim: Another idea is to install the doors the same way the builders did when constructing the house, i.e., measure where the screws should go in the walls, chisel out the lekablock, and insert wooden pieces, which seems effective, as you won't need plastic plugs. BUT I suspect there are pitfalls here, and it could very well yield similar results. I think I will let the current frame screws stay in
justusandersson: It's probably not a bad idea. With a column in the middle, the spans become very small.
Amrich: Thank you for the update! It sounds like we are facing the same problem but you have progressed a little further! I'm considering building a garage where the rear short side (about 7.5m) will end up about 140cm below ground. I would also prefer not to have any partition walls or other supports that take up space in the garage.
tyravz: Interesting! We hadn't found anyone with a connection for 175 mm. The easiest would be if one could just insulate, but as you say, wobbly is not good. Thank you so much for your help! Tyra
David-O: In my experience, using an SDS drill with a diameter smaller than the SDS attachment can often cause damage. [bild]
carlfredrik: Awesome! Thanks for the response and tips. It's going to be a fun project!
Demmpa: With the tightening torque applicable to the current screw, an M6 8.8-material, it yields 9.8Nm. http://nfgab.se/sv/teknik-kvalitet/tekniska-sidor/åtdragningsmoment/åtdragningsmoment-metriska-grovgangor/
Serviceel: how to calculate material cost, Labor (standard) for a house 260 sqm Can you calculate with sqm / ... price per material? And how much for the labor.
olof63: Here's what it looks like with exposed beams (before they messed it up and finished without considering the height). [bild] [bild]
ofrivillige_hantverkaren: Checked a vent pipe on the roof today [bild] and the situation under the roof [bild] [bild] BUT didn't get much further today 1. Would need to dig into the kutterspån to approach the truth if the small pipe belongs to the steel tank.. it might be cast in though(?) 2. Of course, it would be good to really get the arm properly underneath (where I took a picture of the tank) to identify other
jonaserik: Windproof fabric is best, not asphalt felt as it just breaks, the fabric can withstand rough handling. and the one that's there acts as a windbreak, similar to the one inside the outer wall.
bossespecial: Construction drawing around 5000kr if there are no special circumstances. I cannot answer the cost of execution.
Lexington: I think it looks pretty cool! However, I would have wanted to spread out the deviating planks more, now that they are together, it feels very cluttered!
Nygge72: Hello, I am in the process of adding extra insulation to a small summer cottage, and placing it on the existing panel. I wanted to ask if it's possible to frame the walls already, or will the studs be damaged if they are left on the wall, before the next step of adding the insulation? How early can such work be done until the wind barrier is applied? That is, before one can nail the panel (how
Hnak: We have fermacell throughout our house. Really good and strong boards. Never need to use plugs when hanging things on the walls, just screw directly. Heavy during installation but damn stable afterwards.
Novisfixaren: [citat] [citat] Ok, can regular wood glue work or is polyurethane better? I'm considering the attachment post/roof beam, I've found suitable flat iron but does it work with French screws on both sides like 10x40. Or do I need threaded rod with a nut going through? The same applies to the attachment in the post irons against the concrete slab that are U-shaped, does it have to be a threaded rod
TheGame: Renovating the bathroom. Going to install wet room flooring. Originally, the room had 2 exterior walls but now only 1. When I removed the ceiling, I discovered there is still a plastic vapor barrier behind the boards on the wall that is no longer an exterior wall. Should the boards be taken down and the plastic removed? It has worked since the 70s, but the room will become significantly tighter
Thord58: Yes, will put up osb first, then we'll see if we install any finished panel or similar.
Limträ: [citat] Yes, that might be the most convenient. However, there will be a major seam just above the floor angle, but you have seams regardless behind the waterproof layer. Any experience with protecting the timber against the filler? Regards
Brks: Have begun renovating a house built in 1894, wish to improve the insulation somewhat in conjunction with a kitchen replacement as the house currently only has log walls and in some places appears to be drafty. The log walls are dressed on the inside with tretex boards. The question is whether it is appropriate to apply 45x45 studs on the interior wall and insert 45mm stone wool and then clad
MariaiÖstergötland: [citat] Yes, now that I read the TS's first post again, that's probably what they mean. (y):rofl:
piapcs: [citat] Thank you all :love: this forum is wonderful - I'm renovating an entire house and learning so much here :D
Davion: Hello, I started a thread myself regarding the repair of aerated concrete, missing solid segments, etc. In summary, Finja sells a repair wall product that is quite expensive but does the job for a moderately sized hole. I used about 4 bags. Not sure about the thickness though. 25 cm deep might be more than it tolerates; I used it for less drastic cavities. Otherwise, I would recommend doing what
MathiasS: It is difficult to advise on that without seeing exactly what the circumstances are. I thought you had already cut away the existing subfloor where the wall is to be, and then it seemed best to build from the ground up. Place the wall on something stable!
FGLIN: [citat] Around the entire trunk sounds like what is called rotary cut veneer, often used for plywood manufacturing, the growth rings then form large winding patterns that can look unnatural. Slicing is usually done on half logs or quarter logs to give a pattern structure that more resembles boards. See e.g. https://www.holmtravaror.se/faner/
Workingclasshero: Insulate against the window and cover with panels. Good luck.
Nygge72: [citat] Yes, it's the TrygghetsVakten I'm looking into as well in case I need to address the issue. Exciting to build it yourself :)
justusandersson: You have obviously not read my article on different ways to extend at the following link: https://www.byggahus.se/olika-satt-att-bygga-till-huset-guide-och-jamforelse In this way, you are forced to give the extension poor height dimensions and also cannot choose optimal dimensions for the intermediate floor. It is a waste of money. A glulam beam with the dimensions 215x225 can handle a 6 m span