Mountain cabin construction where we have taken over after the frame erection, and the carpenters have left 9 wall supports Pa-So 70 along the long sides and firmly believe they need to stay until we have put in inner walls and ...maybe board material. Besides these fine sticks being in the way of my head all the time, they also cost a nice 3,000SEK per month in rent, so I'm almost ready to buy my own.

Now we have put up the exterior panel around the entire house and I am curious about your thoughts on when one might dare to remove these, the argument hasn't been to prevent the house from collapsing but rather to be helpful if it starts to skew 2-3-4-5 cm before we have begun building inner walls. So far, in a couple of months, I haven't seen the house start to shift (there are masonry lines along the long sides from corner to corner with a stable 1cm space against the wall).

The house is built with a pitched roof where the roof loads down into gables and two internal beams. It is not on alpine terrain and therefore not very wind-exposed. Cross-section architectural drawing of a mountain cabin build with detailed labels, highlighting roof structure, wall supports, and construction materials. Architectural section drawing of a house with labeled structural components, insulation details, and dimensions. Interior view of a cabin under construction, showing wooden support beams, ladders, and insulation material. The roof structure is visible. Floor plan of a house showing the layout of rooms including bedrooms, living room, kitchen, bathrooms, sauna, and storage areas, with measurements. Cross-section diagram of a cabin with a pitched roof, interior beams, and structural details labeled "Sektion BB," scale 1:100. Cross-section architectural drawing of a cabin with a gable roof, showing interior details, support beams, and labeled "Sektion AA" with scale 1:100. South facade elevation drawing of a mountain cabin, showing two windows, a door, and a chimney. Scale 1:100. Illustration of a west-facing facade of a cabin under construction, with detailed measurements and design elements like a pitched roof and panel siding.
 
Boards on the inside of the outer walls and transverse partition walls stabilize the house. Wood paneling does this to some extent if it is tongued and grooved. You might be able to reduce the number of supports slightly but should not remove all of them until the stabilization is complete. A 13-meter-long house is quite sensitive. It is a handsome house, so take care of it.
 
  • Like
Joak and 1 other
  • Laddar…
J justusandersson said:
Boards on the inside of the outer walls and transverse partition walls are what stabilize the house. Wooden paneling does it to some extent if it's tongue-and-groove. You might be able to reduce the number of supports somewhat, but you shouldn’t remove them all until stabilization is complete. A 13-meter-long house is quite sensitive. It's a beautiful house, so take care of it.
Thank you for the response and the compliment!
 
Could one not get a look at detail 1 and 2?
 
B bossespecial said:
Couldn't we see detail 1 and 2?
Technical drawing showing sections and details of roof beam and support plate reinforcement with measurements and specifications in Swedish.
 
  • Like
bossespecial
  • Laddar…
Click here to reply
Vi vill skicka notiser för ämnen du bevakar och händelser som berör dig.