Door frame 2100 mm but only 2030-2050 mm door opening.

[Eyerash]

Hello friends!

I have a silly question. I'm going to throw out my door frame (literally) from 1962. I managed to put on a new door a while ago with the help of a pair of transition hinges that I trimmed... It turned out okay. Until I needed to cut the door and realized that I needed to cut more than the maximum on the door to get it on. Now I'm tired of the mess and want to change it.

Above the current door opening, there's a horizontal kortling (I think it's called that) above the current door frame. This needs to be raised about 50mm for me to fit a 2100 frame. I've seen that there are slightly shorter frames, but either the gap would be too short, or I would have to bend to get through the door. Can the kortling be removed, or will the wall collapse if I do? Is its function to stabilize the door frame, or can it be ignored entirely?

I found some drev (I think it's called that) in the wall that looks like that foam rubber that usually comes with tech gadgets. What should I replace this with? It's just for sound insulation, right, or why would I want to insulate an interior wall?

Best regards!

 

[Dr Jumping Jack]

Hello friends!

I have a silly question. I'm going to throw out my door frame (literally) from 1962. I managed to put on a new door a while ago with the help of a couple of transitional hinges that I cut... It turned out okay. Until I had to cut the door and noticed that I needed to cut more than the maximum on the door to put it on. Now I'm tired of the mess and want to change.

Above the current door opening, there is a horizontal lintel (I think it's called) above the current door frame. This needs to be raised about 50mm for me to fit in a 2100 frame. I have seen that there are slightly shorter frames, but either the gap would be too short, or I would have to bend when I enter through the door. Can the lintel be removed, or will the wall collapse then? Is the function of this to stabilize the door frame, or can it be ignored entirely?

I found some pack (I think it's called) in the wall that looks like the kind of foam rubber that usually accompanies tech gadgets. What should I replace this with? Surely it's just for soundproofing, or why would I want to insulate an internal wall?

Best regards!

Remove the lintel, if it can be done without damaging the wall, it can be a bit tricky. It's enough to secure the door on the sides (where there are pre-drilled holes). You can ignore the insulation.

 

[Eyerash]

Remove the kortlingen, if it's possible without damaging the wall, it can be a bit troublesome. It's enough to attach the door on the sides (there are pre-drilled holes there). You can skip the insulation.

When you say "if it's possible without damaging the wall" I suspect you mean the surface layers? Or is there something else you're thinking about?

 

[Workingclasshero]

I had interior doors that were 100mm too long, so I removed 50mm at the top and bottom and shortened the door frame. I have also on another occasion planed the door frame at the top, bottom, and on the sides to fit into an idiothål.....

 

[Dr Jumping Jack]

When you say "if it can be done without damaging the wall," I suspect you mean the surface layers? Or is there something else you're thinking of?

The surface layer, yes. If the nogging is nailed with large nails, it won't give in easily. Maybe you can saw it in half and pry it out. Sometimes you can reach the nails with an angle grinder.

 

[Eyerash]

The idea is to tear off the surface layers on one side of the frame. Maybe I can reach then. But do I remove the entire kortling then? So, I measured again yesterday... I'm missing 30 mm..... What a mess. So, it's from the floor 2070 mm up to the kortling.

This is how it looks.

Maybe I'm missing something?

 

[Mikael_L]

Reciprocating saw with demolition blade solves your problem, remove 35mm.

First, screw in some gypsum or chipboard screws 40mm up, as there's a risk they might come very close to the edge of the noggin, it might be smart to confuse with a 3mm drill.

But it might be smarter to let the noggin fall off completely and instead push a new stud into the gap.

 

[Eyerash]

Tiger saw with demolition blade solves your problem, remove 35mm.
First screw in some gypsum or chipboard screws 40mm up, since there is a risk they will come very close to the edge of the noggin, it might be smart to confuse with a 3mm drill.

Tear off the noggin first, then you think, cut and put it back?

 

[Mikael_L]

Yes, now I edited while you were replying. But you should probably have some kind of rule/block between the boards. Partly to keep the boards in place, partly to have something to attach the door casing to.

 

[putte22]

I used a Fein tool right through drywall and halfway through the stud. Did this on four door openings with the Fein tool, sealed the "inside" of the room with plastic, and had a vacuum on the front side where I was sawing. It took about 10-15 minutes per opening, went smoothly, and not much dust.

 

[Eyerash]

Hey! Now the kotling is gone! It was nothing unusual. I don't have room for a new one when the new frame comes in, but of course, I realize now in retrospect that it was probably placed there to attach the gypsum to something. However, it was quite an anticlimax when the frame was out of stock at Byggmax. Being picky as I was, I decided to buy a new floor instead while I wait for the delivery.

All the best!