rustproof
rustproof: There stood 1 meter high support legs for the roof trusses, with only the eaves behind them, without any insulation. Therefore, I chose to do a simple insulation after the air gap, to "mimic" the old solution.
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freppe.ar: [citat] Absolutely, there's a stud if I reach my hand in, but it touches a bit up on my forearm, so unfortunately not one I can screw into.
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timmermannen2: Get hold of a small piece of house timber and splice it into the fresh part with a lightning joint so you don't need to build with a pillar underneath. Otherwise, there's surely a carpenter nearby who can fix that in a day.
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Brandtafan: I am renovating a room in our basement. I am placing 27 mm steel studs on the wall but none in the ceiling or at the floor to allow air to circulate in the wall. This is an exterior wall, I should add, which is halfway drained. Half is covered by a conservatory and the other half is where pordrän is on the outside and pipes for the drainage of groundwater. My question is, can I safely put OSB
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Hagaspikaren: Need tips on how to easily dismantle glass blocks set with glass block mortar.
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Hannamor90: Hello! Question regarding tiles under the stove. The house was built in 1937. I believe these tiles under the stove are from the year it was built. Several are loose (or feel loose) and grout has started to come off. I'd like to resolve this as quickly and easily as possible. Preferably nicely as well. We have an old oak parquet that needs to be removed. So once it's removed, the tiles and floor
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Åsa Lund
Åsa Lund: https://www.k-rauta.se/produkt/panel-12x95x4200-furu-trend-p%C3%A4rl-t%C3%A4-vit/7040431939572?gclid=Cj0KCQiApsiBBhCKARIsAN8o_4gcC3PJynK-wjOYeM_4_e6xwIzbL1xeT7muWXdOsB_O7eI3Of1zvx8aAkFrEALw_wcB
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Rolle85: [bild] [bild] [bild]
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Jonatan79
Jonatan79: Save one record of each and sell the rest...
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MagHam: There will always be some irregularities in a plastered facade that are clearly visible in raking light. But one can feel that it is too much in the pictures shown.
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Aerostevs: Hello! I am in the process of restoring a furnished room that was once a garage, which it will become again. Now it's a bare surface that I thought I would tidy up. For the interior walls, I considered either painting directly or gluing drywall. But is it safe to glue drywall directly to the exterior wall considering potential moisture migration? The exterior walls consist of lightweight concrete
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bearmaniac: Do you know in which direction the joists between the ground floor and the upper floor are located right above the kitchen? If you have access to the attic spaces, it might be possible to see there.
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Ovation: [citat] Go for leveling floor. and then eps board on one. LK Spårskiva EPS 16 - LK Systems or Eps https://www.lksystems.se/sv/produkter/lk-golvvarme/produktsortiment/forlaggningssatt/pa-barande-golv/lk-vandskiva-eps-305070_77746458.aspx
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Bygg2021: Want to check if anyone needs building materials from Poland: flooring, windows, doors, bathroom furniture, lighting, tiles, glue, paint ... Arranges transport, possibility for overnight stay in Poland For questions email Tomaszn178@gmail.com
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guggen: [citat] I have insulated with wood fiber in a house that I use as a cold storage. There, I use the recommended barrier, works perfectly, and it's fantastic to work with. But I don't understand the point of using wood fiber if you're going to have tight plastic on the inside. Mineral wool is stone/glass, a natural material just like wood and has been used for ages. Unfortunately, the price
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JSE: [citat] It will probably be great (y)
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Åsa Lund
Åsa Lund: Indoor steps are usually 180 mm Outdoor 130 mm So somewhere in between?
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falkn: 20 cm is the distance between the screws on each beam. The recommended center-to-center distance is 30 cm in the ceiling, but it has often been done with 40 as well.
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Jiji
Jiji: Sekelskifte.se has some type but they don't quite match yours. There have probably been many different ones. Nice anyway. You seem to have measurements and profile so it's possible to order.
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guggen: T-wind has both wind barrier and vapor brakes. It is likely a vapor brake that is correctly installed on the inside. If you have reasonable insulation, i.e., no more than perhaps 150mm mineral wool, this is completely normal. Regardless, it hardly matters; the important thing is that it is well installed and that it is tight.
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Sten96: Hi, Found trippelexpander on byggshop.se and it fit well.
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MathiasS
MathiasS: [citat] I wrote "under 20%" above, it should of course be OVER. this one should work well https://www.bauhaus.se/casco-vatrumslim-1-ltr#go-to-description or even better this one https://www.bauhaus.se/tapetlim-bostik-wet-room-vvatrumslim-1l#go-to-description
29 replies · 23,4k views
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En apelsin
En apelsin: There are usually ready-made stucco, columns, and ceiling beams in styrofoam for decorative purposes. Unsure how easy it is to build yourself, but maybe there are ready-made ones available?
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nht1: Hello, I have a fireplace that I find quite ugly. Would it be possible to sort of remove the "slanted" part to get a more "straight" front on the fireplace? Thanks for any tips or inspirational ideas.
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MathiasS
MathiasS: Examples of good screws. There are other brands that are also nice (e.g., Essve and Jetting). https://www.biltema.se/bygg/fastelement/traskruvar/traskruv-hex-2000038518 Just make sure you have threads where you need them on the screw. I would probably use 8mm and pre-drill a little.
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masterjohn: Once it's insulated, it doesn't cost much to heat up with a convector heater. I am building a loft on top of a garage, 28 sqm, and I heat it with a small construction fan. It easily becomes 10-12° there when the fan is on the lowest setting (650w) and the thermostat is on ½ power and it was -10° outside. Of course, no ventilation is running; only natural draft from 3 air gaps in the windows
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turbo100: Thank you - I will need the net for a filter so it could probably work if it's made of metal too.. Thanks for the input!
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Perra Markusson: Thank you Pontus for the reply. I'll check out the great suggestions, just have to try a bit simply.
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Tompafix: Yes, coarse filler can probably suffice. "One strike filler" is a pre-mixed filling compound that also doesn't shrink.
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mangeroffe: Painted with Alabaster's crystallate on hydraulic lime mortar in the basement. Primed with their primer. Turned out great, very easy to work with and good coverage.
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