Building Materials and Construction Technology
sepani: [citat] Hopefully they are nailed, even if no nails are visible...but they are not nailed in a sparse panel but in the raw boards that I can see from above the loft. I guess I'll try to pry one loose to start with.
prototypen: OK, you don't want to present the problem, so I'll have to explain how our staircase is put together. But first, you write "skrivstift"........ with these I usually make marks where I'm going to saw or drill. The actual railing is secured with sturdy wood screws in the stringers, and the handrails on that side are also screwed in. On the other side, against the wall, the handrail is mounted with
justusandersson: It doesn't seem OK. You need to have access to all the measurements to be able to calculate it. It might be good to know that a 3 m long glulam beam with the dimension 90x225 can withstand a load of about 900 kg/m without bending too much.
-Vinnie-: Hello! I abandoned the idea of using Gotlandslime. The price was 10 times higher, but I solved it another way that also turned out well. I used KC mortar and colored it with KC color HYDRAULIT. It shines, hasn't failed, looks like lime mortar, holds better, and is much cheaper. Some growth might appear on the color on the north side, but it disappears by itself when it gets warmer. Very
tompalompas: The house is from before 1909 and was renovated in the 50s and then again a little here and there during the 2000s. But now it's our turn and we're going to redo the kitchen and I really like the ceiling in one of the rooms that will become the new kitchen. The boards are full-length without seams as far as I can see and with fairly wide spaces in between. I have tried searching but only find
Ankarstjärna: Hi, I have two questions. I'm planning to frame walls for a bathroom. The long side is against a slanted ceiling. What I'm wondering about is the horizontal beam against the slanted ceiling. I saw there are steel tracks adapted for slanted ceilings. But is it also possible to cut wedges? Which option is more stable? I was planning to use vertical wooden studs with 300mm centers and horizontal
Kakao: Hello, I have had a wall relieved in the basement during hole drilling according to all the rules of the art (I hope). Anyone have any tips on how to seal this beam so it becomes one with the wall and ceilings? I would also like information on what type of material can be used to refurbish the bricks, basement wall, and floor according to the pictures. The house was built in the 1950s, basement
Rickard.: Is the post really bad? It looks like only the boards on the outside are bad, they are probably just aesthetic.
Abije112: It is now time to assemble the pavilion on the deck and I, who am not knowledgeable, need a little help. Are deck screws sufficient to fasten the pavilion? And will it hold when it only goes through the plank, or should I screw it so that it also hits the "regel" underneath? because then it won't be exactly the place I had in mind. A
KnockOnWood: [citat] It depends on which way the door will open. Having the floor on the non-opening side a couple of centimeters higher than on the other side can probably be tolerated. Or skip the threshold and place an inclined board as a transition in the doorway. I built a house myself in 2010 without a single threshold inside, and have now moved to an apartment without thresholds. Simple and good for
drewek: Case 1 is wrong. Case 2 is quite wrong too. Case 3 is good, a silicone in a good color on the tile side makes it look nice. Case 4 is the right way to do it, but it's more the execution that's lacking. In case four, I would have gone to the hardware store and bought a threshold (or a planed oak piece) that's wide enough and then sawed it to fill the gap down to the existing floor. In case one,
lillsnickare: [citat] They are a very complicated subject but, yes, you set angles to get a greater pulling power than an angled screw. For example, in roof trusses, there is a risk that the wood will crack, which would impair the bearing capacity and strength, making it much easier to calculate how much they can handle. But usually, it's not something you need to worry about and can often manage without it.
snowjim: [citat] Haha yes, the door was installed well, but in hindsight, I think it's a bit high. The rest of the family feels it's fine, but I'm not entirely sure. So my thought here was to see if there are any guidelines to follow when installing a door, or if you just place it as you like, resting on the existing floor or between two floors. If one were to move it down, how do you actually do such a
dan.nyb: Hey there! I've been racking my brain without getting any wiser. We are going to make an inter-floor structure in the garage that looks like the following. Measurements are in the image. Red - Glulam 56x270 - 3 beams that go across with CC200 Blue - 45x220 CC60 - Mounted on CC60 with beam shoes. Will this handle the pressure as a storage/living room?? Floor chipboard 22mm will be installed,
justusandersson: If you are going to lift a maximum of 500 kg, an HEA 120 is sufficient.
jonitz: Received some good news. Nice and fast work by Beijer! Hello again, You will receive new material during the day tomorrow.
Anonymiserad 353950: [citat] Would patch up the holes with a C mortar. Then plaster entire surfaces with fine plaster and fiberglass mesh. That gives a cohesive look. New wall. (sto evo. Alt hayde)
Zimmermann75: Has a house built in '63 with a rec room. The old floor has been removed, it was on wooden joists with pressure-treated spacers and fiberglass directly on the relatively uneven slab. The room has so far been severely inadequate in terms of ventilation, and the slab showed signs of moisture when dismantled. The walls are also insulated from the inside in the same way as the floor but with painted
TheGame: [citat] The thing is, it's a wall constructed next to an existing interior wall. It's to make the existing wall thicker and to be able to run pipes and network cables. The existing wall is 45*45 and in my opinion, very poorly built with paper strips that stiffen it, and I don't want to deal with it as it will show in the room on the other side. It's easier to construct one next to it. 70s prefab
hempularen: The plot map is often incorrect, it can differ by several meters. Especially if the boundaries have not been determined in modern times. What is legally valid are the actual boundary markers. These may be stumps of steel pipes that the land survey office placed down once upon a time.
prototypen: You can't compare 10 mm building board with treetex on the same day. Drive a few screws into an OSB, it chips a bit on the backside there too. TS, install full boards and screw both at the studs and the edge of the plasterboard. Protte
huggan: Usually, it is mounted horizontally, but if you have the installation instructions, you should always follow them.
witten: The size of the beam is not known until it has been calculated, but 40-60 mm is a common width. It is recessed into the wall under the hammarband. Yes, the stiffness is greater than construction timber of the same size.
Bronken: Tested with the support now. One leg works to twist - counterclockwise=longer leg :-) However, the other has rusted (?) stuck. Lots of rust remover on it now. The feet are loose, but they don't have an up/down function, they should just stand fixed on the floor when you twist the legs, I assume.
Paxman: I have bent plenty of Grundtal S-hooks for various purposes. For example, I use them as hooks for the gutters so that tomato plants can climb along a string. I bend one end to create a closed loop to tie the string in, and the untouched end hooks onto the front of the gutter. However, I have never twisted it, but I see no reason why it wouldn't work. The material is not hardened so it becomes
Vitahusknutar: Hello, We've had a country house for more than a year now. So far, I've renovated the crawl space, done drainage work, built a small house, taken down an interior wall, and built a deck. And everything has gone relatively well. So the next natural step is to build patio doors, of course. I don't know how to do this. But I can guess pretty well. And Google is my friend (and buildahouse.se) The