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Gotland limestone + Foundation wall and a lousy renovation
Hello everyone!
I won't bore you with details, but here's what I have:
The Problem:
A foundation wall on a Gotland wooden house consisting of lime mortar has been covered with a heavy cement mortar and "hollowed".
I've read through forums and many other websites and concluded the following:
Air lime vs hydraulic - It seems to lean towards air lime as the hydraulic may be too strong and leach the lime behind. So I'm going for the air lime instead. Is that correct or am I talking nonsense?
Should all the cement mortar be chipped away, or can I lime over the parts that haven't "hollowed" yet? It feels more proper to chip away all the bad stuff and do it right?
Order of Work (is this correct?)
0. Fix capillary break on the parts of the wall that don't have it. Dig 30cm down and wide and fill with gravel/crushed stone.
1. Get lime of good quality (wet-slaked). How can you calculate how much you need as they are sold in 25 kg bags?
2. Mix the mortar with X sand X water if not pre-mixed (depending on what recipe you want). Otherwise, only water.
3. Have a reinforcement mesh on - galvanized and ready.
4. Mix the mortar so you can hold the "trowel" upside down without it falling off.
5. Wet the wall, remove whatever is loose behind the cement (i.e., the original lime mortar). Brush with a scrub brush – ensure the surface is clean.
6. Trowel the mortar where the holes are largest - no more than 10-15 mm per day.
7. When the whole wall is relatively smooth - lime the entire wall smooth in stages. Ensure it's damp (water once a day between each layer).
8. When the wall is smooth and nice, whitewash (25 kg -> 125 liters water) - apply with a lime brush with synthetic bristles. 6-8 times - max once a day in a cross pattern.
9. Admire the wonder that is a fine foundation wall. Repeat the same procedure for the basement, which is also lime-treated in the same way, maybe even the chimney that's crumbling?
Thanks for all the input/help!
/V
Source links (besides books etc.)
http://www.gardochtorp.se/print.aspx?article=6029
http://www.buttlekalk.se/anvandning
http://www.byggnadsvard.se/byggnadskultur/material/gör-det-själv-revetering-för-amatörer
http://www.sfv.se/globalassets/bygg-pa-kunskap/byggnadsvard/tekniska-anvisningar-putsarbeten.pdf
I won't bore you with details, but here's what I have:
The Problem:
A foundation wall on a Gotland wooden house consisting of lime mortar has been covered with a heavy cement mortar and "hollowed".
I've read through forums and many other websites and concluded the following:
Air lime vs hydraulic - It seems to lean towards air lime as the hydraulic may be too strong and leach the lime behind. So I'm going for the air lime instead. Is that correct or am I talking nonsense?
Should all the cement mortar be chipped away, or can I lime over the parts that haven't "hollowed" yet? It feels more proper to chip away all the bad stuff and do it right?
Order of Work (is this correct?)
0. Fix capillary break on the parts of the wall that don't have it. Dig 30cm down and wide and fill with gravel/crushed stone.
1. Get lime of good quality (wet-slaked). How can you calculate how much you need as they are sold in 25 kg bags?
2. Mix the mortar with X sand X water if not pre-mixed (depending on what recipe you want). Otherwise, only water.
3. Have a reinforcement mesh on - galvanized and ready.
4. Mix the mortar so you can hold the "trowel" upside down without it falling off.
5. Wet the wall, remove whatever is loose behind the cement (i.e., the original lime mortar). Brush with a scrub brush – ensure the surface is clean.
6. Trowel the mortar where the holes are largest - no more than 10-15 mm per day.
7. When the whole wall is relatively smooth - lime the entire wall smooth in stages. Ensure it's damp (water once a day between each layer).
8. When the wall is smooth and nice, whitewash (25 kg -> 125 liters water) - apply with a lime brush with synthetic bristles. 6-8 times - max once a day in a cross pattern.
9. Admire the wonder that is a fine foundation wall. Repeat the same procedure for the basement, which is also lime-treated in the same way, maybe even the chimney that's crumbling?
Thanks for all the input/help!
/V
Source links (besides books etc.)
http://www.gardochtorp.se/print.aspx?article=6029
http://www.buttlekalk.se/anvandning
http://www.byggnadsvard.se/byggnadskultur/material/gör-det-själv-revetering-för-amatörer
http://www.sfv.se/globalassets/bygg-pa-kunskap/byggnadsvard/tekniska-anvisningar-putsarbeten.pdf
Last edited:
How did it go? I'm planning to plaster with slaked Gotland lime myself and I'm curious.V -Vinnie- said:Hello everyone!
I'm not going to bore you with details, but here's the situation:
The Problem:
A foundation wall on a Gotland wooden house made of lime mortar has been covered with a heavy cement render and is "detached".
I've read through the forum and many other websites and come to the following conclusion:
Air lime vs hydraulic - It seems to lean towards air lime as the hydraulic can be too strong and leach the lime behind. So I’m opting for air lime instead. Is that correct or am I talking nonsense?
Should you remove ALL cement render, or can I lime over the parts that haven't "detached" yet? It feels more thorough to remove all the mess and do it properly, right?
Work Order (does this look right?)
0. Fix capillary breaking on the parts of the wall that don't have it. Dig 30cm down and wide, and fill with gravel.
1. Get good quality lime (slaked). How do you calculate how much you need since they're sold in 25 kg bags?
2. Mix the mortar with X sand and X water unless pre-mixed (depending on the recipe you want). Otherwise, just water.
3. Have a reinforcement mesh ready - galvanized and clear.
4. Mix the mortar so you can hold the "trowel" upside down without it falling off.
5. Wet the wall, remove anything loose behind the cement (i.e., the original lime mortar). Scrub with a root brush - ensure the surface is clean.
6. Apply the mortar where the holes are largest - a maximum of 10-15 mm per day.
7. When the entire wall is reasonably smooth - lime the whole wall smooth in layers. Ensure it is moist (water once a day between each layer).
8. When the wall is smooth and nice, apply lime paint (25 kg -> 125 liters of water) - smear on with a lime brush with synthetic bristles. 6-8 times - max 1 time per day in cross patterns.
9. Admire the wonder that is a nice foundation wall. Repeat the same procedure for the basement, which is also lime-treated in the same way, perhaps even the chimney that's crumbling?
Thanks for all the input/help!
/V
Source links (besides books and such):
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Hello!
I abandoned the idea of using Gotlandslime. The price was 10 times higher, but I solved it another way that also turned out well.
I used KC mortar and colored it with KC color HYDRAULIT. It shines, hasn't failed, looks like lime mortar, holds better, and is much cheaper. Some growth might appear on the color on the north side, but it disappears by itself when it gets warmer. Very satisfied! Hope this helps.
I abandoned the idea of using Gotlandslime. The price was 10 times higher, but I solved it another way that also turned out well.
I used KC mortar and colored it with KC color HYDRAULIT. It shines, hasn't failed, looks like lime mortar, holds better, and is much cheaper. Some growth might appear on the color on the north side, but it disappears by itself when it gets warmer. Very satisfied! Hope this helps.
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