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6 replies
Plaster wall - non-standard CC on stud
Hello!
I am going to plaster a room that doesn't have cc45 on the studs, it's mixed with cc33 -> cc48.
There is already 10mm masonite attached to the wall on the existing studs and I will now add 13mm plasterboard. Some thoughts...
Option 1
Should I cut the plasterboard so that I always end CC on a stud? Feels like there will be a lot of waste.
Option 2
Should I screw into each stud and then put metal strips at each plasterboard joint? Do you think this will be sufficient considering the underlying masonite?
Option 3
Your tip for me...?
/Mattias
I am going to plaster a room that doesn't have cc45 on the studs, it's mixed with cc33 -> cc48.
There is already 10mm masonite attached to the wall on the existing studs and I will now add 13mm plasterboard. Some thoughts...
Option 1
Should I cut the plasterboard so that I always end CC on a stud? Feels like there will be a lot of waste.
Option 2
Should I screw into each stud and then put metal strips at each plasterboard joint? Do you think this will be sufficient considering the underlying masonite?
Option 3
Your tip for me...?
/Mattias
I have walls with tretex, I have attached the gypsum without directly considering the placement of the studs. It holds excellently. The previous owner even did the same in the bathroom and tiled it. Worked fine from 1992 until I tore it down two years ago.
But if you have tretex, do you really have studs then? Isn't it a plank wall behind?
Member
· Västerbottens län
· 18 046 posts
10 mm masonite is almost as good as OSB/plywood.
Place full plasterboards and screw into the studs and along the edge of the plasterboard.
Protte
Place full plasterboards and screw into the studs and along the edge of the plasterboard.
Protte
Solid masonite (and tretex) tends to tear more with a screw than OSB or plywood does. Many people have issues with screwing gypsum into tretex because it gets torn apart by the screw and leaves a hole under the gypsum, which then gets pressed down into the hole and breaks. As mentioned, I would have removed the masonite (soundproof if not present) and then added OSB+gypsum. It takes about the same amount of time as measuring each stud, cutting gypsum, dealing with non-countersunk seams that need to be plastered, etc. If it's 10 mm thick masonite, it might be worth considering, but in my experience, the screws still tear these apart and you get no grip with the screw. In that case, I think gluing is better.
Member
· Västerbottens län
· 18 046 posts
You can't compare 10 mm building board with treetex on the same day.
Drive a few screws into an OSB, it chips a bit on the backside there too.
TS, install full boards and screw both at the studs and the edge of the plasterboard.
Protte
Drive a few screws into an OSB, it chips a bit on the backside there too.
TS, install full boards and screw both at the studs and the edge of the plasterboard.
Protte
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