Hello,

Sorry for the millionth "is the wall load-bearing" thread :/

I have a garage that is an extension/addition to a carport with a storage room, where the garage has a "room" that I would like to remove:

Original drawing (where the room is not included):

Blueprint of a garage and carport extension showing labeled areas for carport, storage, and proposed addition, with measurements indicated.

Room in red:

Blueprint of a garage expansion with a carport and storage area, showing a proposed red-outlined room planned for removal.

Roof structure:

Architectural drawing of a garage roof construction dated 1983, showing a cross-section with measurements, materials, and structural details.

I do know that the walls of the "red" room are not load-bearing considering the structure, but I'm wondering if they might have become a bit "helpfully load-bearing" over the years, so to speak. It was built in 1983, and you can see that the roof looks a bit "saggy." Do you think I'll risk the roof becoming even more saggy if I remove the room?

Best regards,
Andreas
 
No, they are not load-bearing in the construction because they are not included in the drawing. Moreover, the span width and truss construction suggest that they would not be.

If the roof is sagging, you should probably consider addressing it properly without relying on any interior walls that are not designed for that purpose ;). It's not that heavy items are being stored on the trusses, is it?

Regardless, it shouldn't be too much of an issue to straighten up, provided the entire building hasn't settled.
 
Thanks for the answer. Then I think I'll dare to go ahead with the reciprocating saw this weekend. Straightening the roof is probably best done when replacing the roof, it's about time. How is it usually done when straightening a roof? "Jack" and then apply reinforcement?
 
A W-truss of this type is self-supporting between the exterior walls. If you think it feels "saggy," you can always check the dimensions in relation to span and snow load zone. It's primarily the top and bottom chords that are important. Additionally, one should not store too much junk on the bottom chord. It is typically designed for a maximum of 50 kg/sqm.
 
This is what the roofline looks like. I don't know how urgent/serious it is. There is no clutter in the attic.

The roofline of a black wooden house with a tiled roof. No debris is visible in front, raising concerns about the structure's condition.
 
The roofline doesn't look good on the left side of the picture. What are the dimensions of the upper and lower frames? Are they W-trusses all the way? In which snow zone is the garage located?
 
Yes, it's the same trusses all over, I will measure the dimensions after work. Snow zone 2.
 
If the picture isn't deceiving, is there also a dip on the right side - albeit much smaller?
 
Yes, that's correct. There are dips on both sides.
 
Are the beams above the gates straight? It looks like it's sagging on at least the left side?
 
Worth mentioning as well, perhaps, is that the left part, built in 1973, had/has a "flat" roof until 1983 when they extended and added a pitched roof over the whole thing. On the left part, they placed the pitched roof directly on the old flat roof; if you climb up in the attic, you walk on the roofing felt (old roof), so to speak.
 
Inside an attic with sloped and supported wooden rafters, some boards and materials are visible, possibly for clearing or renovation. Attic with wooden beams and stored items, including a green sled and boards; light fixture attached to beams. Attic with exposed wooden beams and some stored items. Sloping beams measure 13x5cm, supporting beams 10x2.5cm. Few boards scattered around.

There were a few things in the attic, but not too bad. I might clear away some boards and such just to be safe.

The lower and upper sloping beams are 13x5cm. The double supporting ones are 10x2.5cm.
 
Somewhat weak dimensions considering the snow load area and span in the upper frames, but that probably can't explain the sag in the ridge. I suspect the cause can be found further down in the construction.
 
Now the walls are coming down anyway. Can anyone give me tips as an inexperienced demolisher on what to do at the ceiling and walls?

This is how it looks right now:
A partially demolished wall with exposed wooden beams, debris, and a ladder. The ceiling and wiring are visible.

At the ceiling:
Close-up of a partially demolished wall showing wooden beams and drywall edges, with some yellow paint visible on one beam.

At the wall:
Close-up of a wall section being dismantled, showing layers of drywall and yellow insulation material, as part of a renovation project. Close-up of a yellow-painted wooden wall edge with exposed layers of plasterboard, showing the intersection with adjacent materials.

The wall was built before it was plastered, so how do I proceed with the least amount of effort?
 
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