Planning to build a fence with 45x28 standing slats attached to 95x45 frames.
I would like to have a smooth surface facing outward. This should be pressure-treated wood. I'm considering attaching from the back, but then only 10-13 mm of the 28 mm would be secured. An alternative I've looked at is using Camo and attaching from the side? But with 28 mm thickness, maybe you can attach at a 45-degree angle from the side without using Camo? It should be 50/50 slat/gap.
The easiest is probably to screw it from the back as you planned but to drive it deeper into the 95x45, perhaps 10 mm down. You usually drive the screw down a bit in regular decking floors of pressure-treated wood as well.
The easiest way is probably to drive the screw from behind as you thought, but to drive it deeper into the 95x45, maybe about 10 mm down. You usually drive the screw a bit into regular pressure-treated decking too.
Yes, of course. Use a 55 mm screw and drive a little more. Good idea. Just need to have some feel so you don't drive through.
The easiest way is to pull the screw from behind as you intended, but to drive it deeper into the 95x45, maybe about 10 mm down. It's common to sink the screw a bit in regular pressure-treated decking floors as well.
When you sink the screw into decking material, a depression is created where water can remain and damage the decking fairly quickly. It's quite unprofessional to deviate from constructive water protection. It's better to pull from the side, preferably a bit from below so the water doesn't stay...
The fence will be repainted in a year when it has dried.
Of course, screws provide better strength than brads (or nails for that matter), but a fence isn't subjected to much force as long as you refrain from climbing over it. I guess that historically, nailed fences have been more common than screwed ones. If I were to build a fence where I want hidden fastening, I would probably go for brads diagonally from the sides.
Thanks for all the responses! I guess I should show how it turned out, even if it's been a year now.
I ended up using hidden deck screws driven diagonally. Two in each joist. I think it turned out really well and it's still holding up nicely a year later too.
Thanks for all the answers! I guess I should show how it turned out even though it's been a year now.
In the end, I used hidden deck screws that were driven in diagonally. Two in each joist. I think it turned out really well and it's still holding up well after a year too.
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I'm interested in a picture from the back so we can see how you attached the railings to the post. Did you attach them in front of the post, notch them, or attach them to the side of the post?
I'm interested in a picture from the back so you can see how you've attached the fence rails to the post. Did you attach them in front of the post, notch them out, or attach them to the side of the post?
Thanks for all the answers! I guess I should show how it turned out even though it's been a year now.
I finally used hidden decking screws installed diagonally. Two in each joist. I think it turned out really well and is still sitting nicely a year later.
[image]
Looks really nice! Did you use any tool to get the angle right on each slat?
I'm just about to start mounting the nailing strip and slats on my fence, so I'm wondering how you did it.
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Cquencer said:
