Thanks, but my question is how to get the base plinth closer to the panel. Normally, when making a slab on the ground, the panel ends up a bit out as nail battens/ventilation, etc., add some build.
I want the baseboard on a batten panel even with the surface layer of the foundation, but I don't know how to solve this.
Either you have to position the frame a bit inside the slab or you have to extend the base to the panel level. Or a bit of both.
Thanks for the response! Exactly! If you place the nailing strip inside the edge element, I assume you have to put a sheet metal or something similar. So that water does not accumulate around the sill.
Is there another way to do it? What do you think of my sketch in terms of construction overall?
Yes, if the sill is moved in so that the wind barrier (pos. 3) cannot run down over the edge element's side, I would have installed a flashing (that goes up behind the wind barrier and ends outside the edge element).
Yes, if the sill is moved in so that the wind barrier (pos. 3) cannot run down over the edge element's side, I would have installed a flashing (that goes up behind the wind barrier and ends outside the edge element).
Thanks for the tip! Is it possible to glue on a foam board or something similar instead? I'm worried about lateral load if I use the alba beam.
Didn't the "vattbrädan" (the one that slopes at an angle) used to end a few cm outside the base to protect it from rainwater?
Offerbräda is a board parallel with the panel to easily be replaced instead of the lower part of a vertical panel getting damaged over the years, it doesn't slope.
Didn't the "skirting board" (the one that slopes at an angle) typically end a few cm outside the base to protect it from rainwater?
Offerboard is probably a board parallel to the panel, easily replaceable so that the lower part of a vertical panel doesn’t deteriorate over the years, it doesn't slope.
Agree, names that are not used in modern construction.
Do you mean foam glass slabs like foamglas? We had those on a project at work a couple of years ago and I remember we got some kind of two-component adhesive that we mixed and then applied with a notched trowel, but I'm a bit unsure. But it might work with cement mortar or something like PL600 or similar. I assume they end up halfway underground, so that helps to keep them in place. But I recall they were quite expensive? Doesn't styrofoam work, because I know you can glue that with PL600?
Do you mean foam glass sheets like Foamglas? We had those on a project at work a couple of years ago and I remember we got some kind of two-component adhesive that was mixed and then applied with a notched trowel, but I'm not entirely sure. But it might work with cement mortar or something like pl600 or similar. I assume they end up partly underground which helps keep them in place. But I remember they were quite expensive? Wouldn't something like Styrofoam work since I know you can glue it with pl600?
Hi, Kirre! Thanks for the nice reply! Yes, Foamglas or something similar. I have also seen that people use bitumen 2k adhesive, but as I understand it, it's primarily to seal the joints. I'll call and find out this week how I can attach these.
Using foam board with thin plastering on these could definitely be an option. I will be using 500mm foam glass gravel as insulation inside the albabeam. For this reason, it feels good to stick to glass on the exterior as well. I also think it might provide better adhesion for plaster, and contribute to a significantly longer lifespan in general for the slab.
Yes, these will be partly underground. They are extremely expensive, but it seems reasonable considering I'll end up with double the cost compared to traditional slabs.
My belief is that this slab will have a considerably longer lifespan than a regular slab on grade. The downside is that I'll have worse insulation than 300mm foam board. With foam glass, I'm around 0.18-0.19 U-value.
Yes, that probably makes sense, it's quite a few years since I did that job. Okay, you are going to plaster the base. If I had read a little more carefully before, I would have understood that. However, I thought it looked like the base in the pictures was some kind of baseboard, but it was plastered. I don't really have any experience with plaster on skumglass, so I'm not sure, but it might be correct.
A standard slab foundation has no problem with its lifespan if it is done according to all the rules of the craft. But it makes sense what you're saying, if you've used it under the slab, then use it on the base too.
Hello again! I'm in a similar situation here. I do have 22 mm tongue and groove, but it ends with a "water board" that is 50 mm, which ends up (25 mm Hunton fascia + 28 mm nail battens) 5 cm outside the foundation. I haven't decided yet how much it bothers me; right now, I'm more bothered about having to choose an Albabalk – I would prefer natural stone, just like the existing foundation. There are granite slabs that can be placed on the Albabalk, but they are the wrong height for me, and it doesn't feel right.
But! What caught my attention here was that you're having a Hasopor foundation; how have you constructed it? How deep are you digging, are you installing frost insulation, etc.?
(I have 300 mm Hasopor inside the Albabalk/natural stones, plus fill up the joist (170 mm) and get a U-value of 0.157)
Hello again! I'm in a similar situation here. I do have 22 mm beadboard, but it ends with a "vattbräda" of 50 mm that lands (25 mm Hunton fascia + 28 mm nailing batten) 5 cm outside the foundation. I haven't decided yet how much it bothers me, I'm currently more bothered about choosing albabalk - I'd like natural stone, just like the existing foundation. There are granite slabs you can put on the albabalk, but they are the wrong height for me and it feels wrong.
But! What caught my attention here is that you're using Hasopor foundation; how have you constructed it? How deep do you dig, do you lay frost insulation, etc.?
(I have 300 mm Hasopor inside the albabalk/natural stone, plus filling the joists (170 mm) and getting a U-value of 0.157)
Hello! It's fun to see that one is not the only one in the world with this problem!
I solved this overhang issue by increasing the overhang further. Then I could place the stone flush with the beam. If you do it with some finesse, my hope is that it's not noticeable.
I have also seen an example of this in reality with cut stone, and it looked very authentic.
With 600 mm albabalk and 500 mm Hasopor, the U-value ended up around 0.22.
However, I abandoned this and chose to go with foam board, it simply became too complicated as this is my first real construction.
Whether you need frost insulation or not depends on where in the country you live, as well as the calculated heat penetration from the slab.
Are you planning to expand?
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Bernieberg said:
