N neo11 said:
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Set them with a pass, then you can run as thin as you want, as long as it’s straight.
Apply a narrow line (10cm wide) with plaster from floor to ceiling, press the strip nearly to the bottom.
Then a rod and level to check that it’s straight.
With 1.5 meters in between. Then drag the rod on the tracks when you plaster.

Absolutely wonderful with all this info. Thank you so much.

I have to ask when I get a reply. I have a door opening that is 92cm today which I have temporarily reduced to 82cm because of a fitting door frame. What is the best tip to replace the rules I set with? Should I cast a mold or can you plaster 5cm on each side? Feels very thick?

//Andreas
 
N
Casting a mold sounds cumbersome, you can plaster 5 cm in stages, or use some kind of block.
But what do you screw the frame into then?
 
N neo11 said:
Casting a mold sounds complicated, it is possible to plaster 5 cm in stages, or use some form of block.
But what do you screw the frame into then?
Just realized, there will be nothing to screw into. Maybe build these against the concrete hollow blocks? See image. What do you think about that and which mortar? Murbruk B?
 
  • Concrete block FINJA 3MPa, dimensions 9x19x59cm, displayed with textured surface, priced at 21,50 kr each.
N
You might want to post some pictures, I don't understand how you're going to fit those blocks.
 
N neo11 said:
You might want to upload some pictures, I don't understand how you're going to fit those blocks.
Pictures will come tomorrow for a bit more clarification.

Haven't bought the material yet, but just noticed. What's the difference between putsbruk C and KC puts? Both contain lime?
 
N neo11 said:
You might want to post some pictures, I don't understand how you're going to fit those blocks.
here comes a picture of the doorway I talked about.
regards Andreas A partially installed doorframe with a white door in a concrete wall, showing exposed wooden edges and cables.
 
N
S Sandman88 said:
pictures will come tomorrow for a little more clarification.

haven't bought materials yet, but noticed now. What's the difference between plaster mortar C and KC plaster? Do both contain lime?
Plaster mortar C is a KC mortar, answer yes, KC stands for lime and cement.
 
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Buy a larger door.

You never have problems with doors that are too large... On the other hand, ones that are too small are a nuisance.
 
N neo11 said:
Putsbruk c is a kc mortar, the answer is yes, kc stands for kalk and cement.
I have to ask you all, do you apply the plaster by troweling or by hand throwing?
 
N
One hits on the plaster.
 
N neo11 said:
You strike the render.
Thank you for all the help :)

Another question, do you have to tear off the render when I've plastered? I'm going to tile on these walls and I'm not after the appearance.

Best regards, Andreas Concrete wall in a basement under renovation, with pipes and electrical components attached. A bucket of mortar and a level can be seen on the floor.
 
N
You can do a little planing, it becomes a bit uneven when you've used furring strips. But the walls must be completely straight; use a straightedge. It's not a bathroom, but tiling becomes easier if the walls are straight.
 
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