I have built a small shed where the roof is supported by beams instead of trusses.
However, I have encountered a problem because the ridge beam is straight, while the others have an 18-degree slope:
For the inner ceiling where it meets at the ridge, the angle and distances are completely "off":
There just isn't much or anything to nail/screw onto. I could bevel the edges of the ceiling panels (which will either be some type of paneling or plywood) and try to meet them exactly in the middle and force them down the 3mm, but that's probably not ideal. Otherwise, I considered setting a 45x45 timber sunk ~11mm along the ridge in the ceiling. Would that work?
Unfortunately, the instructions don't say much, this is the only part regarding the steps to install the roof:
I'm also talking to the manufacturer, they just note that I might need to "regla upp" to install interior wall and roof. I guess it's not very common with inner ceilings. I'm a complete beginner, so maybe I'm asking the wrong question too.
Does it mention anything about the ridge beam in the instructions? I mean, you may have interpreted something incorrectly that we might be able to help understand or discuss...
Sad, yes then you probably have to do as you suggest yourself, to add two extra studs on each side - which you lower just enough.
And/or something 3mm thick to place under the ridge.
Alternatively, add a 45 so that the ridge stud is visible, plus something list-like to screw into.
Sad, yes, then you probably have to do as you suggest yourself, to attach two extra studs on each side - which you lower down just enough. Or something 3mm thick to place under the ridge.
Alternatively, you can place a 45: to make the ridge rule visible, plus something list-like to screw into.
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That wasn't actually a bad idea – "faking" a visible ridge would probably work quite well in this case.
The nicest solution would be to find a simple ~3mm spacer, as you say, but even if you did, there's a risk it would crack and split if you screw into it a lot.
Buy a new rule that is larger and saw/mill it so that it fits/works is also an option. I would probably have gone for that.
You mean for the ridge itself? Nah, there's already tongue and groove, tar paper, battens, and sheet metal roofing installed on it – gets a bit tricky to fix afterward =D
I fixed it as in the "cheat suggestion" above, except I replaced the entire ridge with a stronger beam that protruded down.
Edit: however, I haven't solved the problem at the ridge. There's some heat leakage there that I'm considering solving by foaming the triangular gap from the outside. This would have been better resolved if I had beveled the ridge at the top.
I fixed it as suggested in the "cheat suggestion" above, except that I replaced the entire ridge with a sturdier beam that extended down.
Edit: I haven't solved the problem at the ridge. There's some heat leakage there that I'm considering resolving by foaming the triangular void from the outside. This would have been better solved if I had beveled the ridge at the top.
Okay, you mean you've done something similar before? Did it turn out well in the end?
Regarding insulation, etc., I've also considered using some foam, but I'll first try to see if it works to just bevel/angle cut that side of the insulation (I have 145mm glass wool for the ceiling there).
Okay, do you mean that you have done something similar before? Did it turn out well in the end?
Regarding insulation, etc., I have also possibly thought of using some foam, but I will first try if it doesn't work to just bevel/angle cut that side of the insulation (I have 145mm glass wool for the ceiling there).
Yes, I have done something similar. In my case, however, it was channel plastic. There is no insulation between the channel plastic on top of the beam, i.e., no insulation where the channel plastic meets the ridge. Idiotic construction. If I had beveled on top, it would have been better and tighter.
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