I am running new pipes to new radiators in the garage. The main pipe is run in the ceiling and then down the wall to the radiators. These are PEX pipe-in-pipe that I am embedding in a LECA/lightweight concrete wall.

How do you usually fix the pipes in the groove in the wall before plastering? Nails that you bend and drive in?

In the next phase, I plan to lay a mesh over the pipes and the groove the pipes are in, and then plaster the wall in the usual way.
 
When we tracked for electricity, we used nails just as you said.
Then I used plaster to fill the track.
Cheap and simple.
 
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guggen and 1 other
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When I worked with aerated concrete (ytong), I made the grooves just right so that the pipe could be pressed in and held by friction. Where it failed, I placed nails to keep them in place. Then I covered it with patching mortar, and once it dried, I removed the nails (didn't want them left in the wall, I know some people leave them, it doesn't seem to be a big issue).

Edit, I even found a picture:
Wooden board holding cables on concrete wall with patching compound applied; nails temporarily secure the setup during a renovation project involving conduit pipes.
Behind the pipes (and the box), I dabbed in patching mortar. Nails and board stay there until it dries, then they are removed. Lastly, I leveled it off with more patching mortar. Admittedly, VP pipes in this case, but the same solution works for thicker RiR...
 
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Alexn72 and 1 other
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Thanks for the tips, now I got some new ideas.

Given that I'm only going to track two meters and I'm doing it with the multi-machine, it's easy to make the track with a snug fit on the pipes so they stay in place without other fastening. Great tip!

The LK-spikklammern was probably exactly the product I was looking for, and it seems like I can get hold of them quickly via proffsmagasinet as well.
 
Now, it's only 2m so the multitool will probably work just fine - But there is a Metabo MFE30 at a neighbor near you.... ;)

Metabo MFE30 wall chaser tool with handles, featured as an alternative for a 2m building project.
 
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MathiasS and 1 other
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richardtenggren
I used TCS screw clamps when I was tracking in the basement, pre-drilled and then drove them in. Worked great in the leca, in the hollow concrete I sometimes had to use a plug.

But the clamps from LK look brilliant for this, too bad I didn't think of these.
 
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MathiasS
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slacker slacker said:
Now it's only 2m so the multi-tool probably works fine - But there is a Metabo MFE30 with a neighbor near you.... ;)

[image]
Thanks for the offer - however, I like the blue multi-machine with "joint cleaning blade" - it cuts like butter in the leca block and dusts minimally.... :)
 
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slacker
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richardtenggren
I rented a Hilti wall chaser, didn't produce any dust when I connected it to the CTL36, cost 260 SEK for a weekend.

Interesting that you have a good experience with Fein in leca; I tried it once in brick with a similar blade and it wasn't great as far as I remember.

I happened to miss a few tracks now while I was working in the basement, so I used the angle grinder when I realized this late on a Sunday, and the mason was coming on Monday morning—it was like Lützendimma in the basement! :D
 
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slacker
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MathiasS MathiasS said:
Thanks for the offer - however, I like the blue multitool with "joint cleaning blade" - it cuts through the lecablock like butter and creates minimal dust.... :)
I must try those, I have a budget slot cutter from Jula. Creates tons of dust and is quite weak. If the above method works in leca, it should work in lightweight expanded clay blocks too.
 
B
I usually attach them to the track with something like a small nail plate temporarily. Then I put some mortar, adhesive, or similar material (whatever is at home) in the track here and there along the flex pipe. The day after, I unscrew the nail plate. Then the mortar holds the pipe. Cheap and easy.
 
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MathiasS
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T tobben87 said:
I must try those, I have a budget router ala Jula. Dusts deluxe and is quite weak. If the above method works in leca, it should work in lightweight clay blocks too.
I can report back when I'm done - now I've just made my way diagonally through the wall and up into the ceiling on the other side of the wall - by drilling - and then I've made space for the wall bracket fixtures 30cm down the wall. I initially thought of switching to surface-mounted pipes at the ceiling, but now that it was so easy to groove, it will be hidden instead. The pipes also fit outside the reinforcement I put in the wall, otherwise, I would have probably skipped this exercise.
 
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JSten
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Fast or slow, but after 40 minutes the track is done. Half the time for two tracks 25mm deep, the other half for chipping away what needs to be removed.

Not super fast, one might say, and if you're doing more than 2m you'd probably need to use a tracking cutter. An advantage of the multi-tool is that it was basically dust-free, did this without a vacuum without any issues.

A concrete block wall with a vertical groove cut into it, showing the process of creating a channel without significant dust. Nearby are organized tools.
Oscillating tool on a wooden workbench next to a blue safety glove, used for cutting and removing materials with minimal dust.
 
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Luddis_1 and 4 others
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Smooth!
40 minutes isn't too bad considering it takes about 2 years to clean up all the dust when using a track cutter. :D
 
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Dracula
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Ok it took a little while longer before the pipes were in place. I think it will be good. A couple of these LK holders would be nice as extra fixation where I went bananas with the machine and it got a bit wide.

Pipes installed in a wall with blue brackets; extra fixing suggested. Two white pipes installed vertically against a gray brick wall, with orange and blue storage bins on the left. The surrounding area shows some masonry work.
 
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Luddis_1 and 3 others
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