Greenhouse wall

[Plupp 184001]

Sitting here hesitating and need some input!

I've bought a Willab Garden Green Room Wall Elegant with a 60 cm wall, 312x464 cm, 14.6 m2. I intend to use granite cladding both outside and inside. The foundation will be a 10 cm poured slab.

Option 1: Build a 60 cm wall and cast a 7 cm thick wall. Pull up 10 mm reinforcement from the slab every 30 cm and then horizontal 10 mm in three places around. Then 6150 on both sides. Then coarse concrete C25/C30. This will be the strongest but takes a lot of work time and formwork cost (crazy expensive, 3,000 SEK for plywood and 3,000 SEK for studs). The concrete costs about 2,000 SEK with reinforcement 2,000 SEK. Total around 10,000 SEK.

Option 2: Build with 75 mm Weber leca blocks. They have tongue and groove but no horizontal anchoring. 3 blocks on top of each other and then the greenhouse on top with 80+80 kg of cladding (can strengthen over the joints as well). Can pull up reinforcement in the same way from the slab to meet the holes in the blocks. But is the idea already doomed? Cost about 3,000 SEK.

Option 3: Many will probably suggest brick, but our basement wall will be clad in spring, so it would be magnificent to have granite on the greenhouse as well.

All thoughts are welcome!

Best regards, Jocke

 

[Plupp 184001]

It will involve shaping and casting with concrete in two batches. Leca becomes too unstable.

 

[Snickarkirre]

They become quite thick with reinforcement in the wall. You should have at least 20mm of cover with concrete over the reinforcement; otherwise, there is a risk that moisture will penetrate to the reinforcement, causing it to rust and crack the concrete. Then it becomes overkill with so much reinforcement. You can either skip the mats and place the horizontal bars closer together, like c/c 150. Or you skip the horizontal bars and place a mat on one side of the vertical bars. Both alternatives work and will be cheaper. Remember to place b-järn (a reinforcement bar bent at 90') in the corners to tie the walls together

 

[Plupp 184001]

It becomes quite thick with reinforcement in the wall. You should have at least 20mm cover with concrete over the reinforcement, otherwise there's a risk that moisture will penetrate to the reinforcement and cause it to rust and crack the concrete. Then it's overkill with so much reinforcement. Either you can skip the mats and place the horizontal bars closer together, like c/c 150. Or you skip the horizontal bars and lay a mat on one side of the vertical bars. Both options will hold and it will also be cheaper. Remember to place b-bars (a reinforcing bar bent at 90') in the corners to tie the walls together

Yes, I removed the mesh as it builds 12 mm compared to regular 10s. 10+10 in the verticals plus 10 in three rounds seems sensible. Then I get exactly 20 mm on each side. Additionally, 20x20 cm mesh squares with 10 mm instead of 15x15 cm with 6 mm.

A bit worried about keeping the tolerances though. I don't have a lot of leeway so the form needs to be stable even at 80 cm height from the base...

 

[sinuslinus]

You can make the wall thicker, making it easier to build with mortar. You don't need to build the wall with minimum thickness to match the greenhouse frame.

 

[Plupp 184001]

You can make the wall thicker, making it easier to build. You don't need to make the wall with minimal thickness to match the greenhouse frame.

I prefer to have as much indoor space as possible, hence the concrete I ideally have 10-11 cm to work with.

7 cm concrete
1.5 cm edge on the wall cladding at its thinnest at the edges, both inside and outside gives 3 cm.
Nature stone fix, inside and outside gives about 1 cm.

There are my 11 cm

If I go up to Leca 15 cm for example, I'm at 19 cm and lose 1.25 square meters in the greenhouse

 

[Snickarkirre]

Okay, then it should be fine! There are 20mm rebar spacers available to buy, if you nail those into the form and then attach the rebar to them, it will maintain the measurements