I am going to build a vacation house from Lundqvist Trävaru where the house is assembled in 120cm-modules. So it consists of vertical studs with 120cm spacing. My initial thought was to install drywall directly onto this, but I now realize I made a mistake thinking the studs were spaced at 60cm, which they are not.
I'm thinking an installation layer with horizontal 45-studs is necessary, but I'm a bit unsure about the best way to solve this? If you set these studs at 60cm spacing (horizontally), what happens with the vertical joints on the drywall? You can't have these without a stud behind them, right? Is it common to set vertical studs at 90 or 120cm spacing depending on the width of the drywall sheets?
I'm thinking an installation layer with horizontal 45-studs is necessary, but I'm a bit unsure about the best way to solve this? If you set these studs at 60cm spacing (horizontally), what happens with the vertical joints on the drywall? You can't have these without a stud behind them, right? Is it common to set vertical studs at 90 or 120cm spacing depending on the width of the drywall sheets?
There is a T-profile available for purchase at places like Byggmax. You position the drywall and use it in the vertical joints. Remember to buy combo drywall screws so you can screw both into the steel and the wooden beam without issues.
If you want to keep your existing plan, the easiest way is probably to just install a bunch of extra standing studs, so you get CC60. (Plate or metal according to taste)
But personally, I would probably put a layer of K-plywood on the studs and then plasterboard on top of that. The price difference compared to OSB isn't that extreme, and then you can just go ahead without having to think about the studs, etc., when furnishing (and you get a "more solid feel" in the walls).
But personally, I would probably put a layer of K-plywood on the studs and then plasterboard on top of that. The price difference compared to OSB isn't that extreme, and then you can just go ahead without having to think about the studs, etc., when furnishing (and you get a "more solid feel" in the walls).
If you have horizontal 45-studs, I assume you shouldn't place these profiles on top of these studs? Instead, either saw away a bit where the profile passes the wood stud, or cut the profile into sections that fit in between? If the profile is placed on top of the studs, the joint ends up 2-3mm further out, which likely will cause problems. Or am I thinking wrong?Matti_75 said:
The installation layer is called that because it's in that layer where the installations are placed. Maybe you shouldn't have recessed installations, or are you prepared to redo the plastic sheeting once these are in place?
Particleboard I find is a very interesting option with today's prices in dry spaces. The particleboard is completely unaffected by price increases and serves well for most things you need, although it is not quite as good as OSB or plyfa. Anyone who has lived for a while in an older Älvsbyhus (among others) knows that there is no problem screwing up even fairly heavy items in 10mm particleboard.
The installation layer feels somewhat worthwhile if you don't use it for its intended purpose.
The installation layer feels somewhat worthwhile if you don't use it for its intended purpose.
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The idea has been for the house supplier not to plasticize the walls, but for me to do it after the electrician has done their job. If we go with an installation layer, we can of course plasticize from the beginning and have the electrician do their work in the installation layer.A Emil_K said:
Yes, a 12mm particleboard costs less than half that of an OSB. The reason I want to skip OSB/wooden board is due to the cost; I don't think it's worth so many thousands extra just to avoid drywall anchors. As mentioned, it's a holiday home, and I need to keep the costs down.Rickard. said:
Exactly, and if you order a load of 10mm chipboard, you should be relatively close to the cost of the t-plates. You could also replace the 45x45 rule with something like 28x70 if you prioritize price and space, but then you lose the advantages of an installation layer.J jknut said:
Then you can choose to just insert a 45x45 or 45x70 in each bay. The work to adjust the insulation can hardly be more than other solutions.J jknut said:
I actually don't know.J jknut said:
A 45x45 with 2x boards is more than sufficient, but without any support on the backside and with single plasterboard, I'm not as sure. I think it will work if you find good studs, but just that could be a project. 45x70 is often easier to find in good quality and easier to work with, in my opinion.