The fastest way would be to attach a 17mm raw chipboard to the 95mm rule, as you desired measurements without planing or sawing.
 
F fribygg said:
The fastest way is probably to attach a 17mm raw chip board to the 95mm rule when you want the desired measurement without planing or sawing.
That is also a good alternative... it might even be more convenient... just have to measure exactly so that it doesn't risk sticking out 1-2mm too much and the plasterboard breaks then...
 
You can use 120x45 and then just add 8mm thick strips on one side of the glulam beam to "extend" the joist up to the ceiling? That way, you can fit thicker insulation. Keep in mind that weight insulates sound well, and that air gaps let through much more sound than you think...
 
It can also work..
The question is, however, what can be found that is 8mm thick..:thinking:
 
There is 8 mm plywood at Jem&fix
 
Bauhaus has plywood and mdf at 8 mm? Just cover the entire beam to reduce the risk of sound traveling.
 
VidarH VidarH said:
Bauhaus has plywood and MDF at 8 mm? Just cover the whole beam, and it will be less likely for sound to travel.
that might be a better option than planing down..
And then just put drywall over everything.
But there won't be any ply or OSB behind the actual drywall on the wall..
Unless you use double layers of plywood..
Might be better if you want to hang something up?
And the risk of it cracking decreases :p:D
 
Keep the glulam beam intact so you or future owners can always restore it in the future.
You'll probably need to glue a layer of microlit fabric or my fiberglass fabric over the beam and down the wall before you wallpaper or paint to reduce the risk of cracks. Wood moves.
 
Or go up to 145mm rule and notch out 112mm for the glulam beam? Massive overkill if the doors are not soundproof...
 
VidarH VidarH said:
Or go up to a 145mm stud and notch out 112mm for the glue-laminated beam? A substantial overkill if the doors are not soundproof...
it will be standard doors..
So that's why I'm mostly looking for the absolutely simplest option!
 
The easiest wall I've taken down was 45x45 with 3mm fiberboard on each side... Not much of a wall. Of course, there were bookshelves on both sides of that wall.
 
Huddingebo Huddingebo said:
Keep the glue-laminated beam intact so you or future owners can always restore it in the future. You might need to glue on a layer of microlit fabric or my fiberglass over the beam and down over the wall before wallpapering or painting to reduce the risk of cracks. Wood moves.
the thought is there as well.. But the way the house is planned, it's more of a family villa that, in my opinion, needs to have bedrooms on the ground floor. There's only one bedroom today. And if you have kids, they need to be down there too..

but I understand your thought.. but just difficult to figure out how to do it nicely without the beam being visible..
 
VidarH VidarH said:
The easiest wall I have taken down was 45x45 with 3mm chipboard on each side... Not much of a wall. Of course, there was a bookshelf on both sides of that wall.
yeah okay!
I'll see what I do.. feel like there are many options..:crysmile::thinking:
 
Here is a picture of the floor plan.
It's the wall where the matchstick is.
The door closest to the entrance is widened to an archway.
And the door to the other bedroom is sealed.

the idea is now to wall and have a door in the new wall.

so that the room which becomes open should be like a playroom/living room type.

it's our first house and will be our first child :D

then there is an upstairs with only one bedroom. And a large living room..
 
  • Floor plan showing a house layout with widened entrances, a closed-off bedroom door, and playroom area; a matchstick points to a specific wall.
Now about a year later, it's begun..
The door will be mounted in its original place next to the bathroom.
So the wall will be 120 with OSB and plasterboard.
The beam will remain for the future..

But what I'm now considering.
I've bought insulation..
But I'm starting to doubt if it's worth insulating since the other interior walls are uninsulated?

It's only about 500 SEK..
But it's a bit of extra work.. and if it adds nothing, it feels pointless.

What do you think?

Will it become a big resonance chamber without the insulation?
Or will the plasterboard and OSB make it feel solid anyway?
 
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