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29 replies
4k views
29 replies
Narrow down studs or fill in?
Hello everyone!
Yes, maybe a strange headline. But here's the situation. The previous owner tore down a load-bearing wall between two bedrooms and converted it into a dining room as they were an older couple.
However, we are in our 25s and would need the rooms again in a few years for children.
For now, just thinking of having one bedroom and the other as a family/playroom.
Currently, there's a glulam beam in the ceiling.
I want to rebuild without it being visible that there's a beam. The problem is that the beam is 112mm wide...
So I've figured out two different solutions.
Either use 45x95 studs and set them flush on one side.
Then on the other side, there will be 17mm missing...
Then I see one option as placing 11mm OSB and then 6mm renovation plasterboard to build it out to the same level as the glulam beam and then plasterboard both sides all the way up to the ceiling.
The second alternative is to buy 45x120 studs and run all pieces through a table saw with a fence at 112mm and thus avoid OSB and renovation plasterboard.
However, it will be more complicated with insulation... should I still use 120 insulation and just compress it a bit?
Then with the interior door, I’ll have to trim it anyway… so it feels like it doesn’t matter which alternative...
How would all of you do it?
//Robin.
Yes, maybe a strange headline. But here's the situation. The previous owner tore down a load-bearing wall between two bedrooms and converted it into a dining room as they were an older couple.
However, we are in our 25s and would need the rooms again in a few years for children.
For now, just thinking of having one bedroom and the other as a family/playroom.
Currently, there's a glulam beam in the ceiling.
I want to rebuild without it being visible that there's a beam. The problem is that the beam is 112mm wide...
So I've figured out two different solutions.
Either use 45x95 studs and set them flush on one side.
Then on the other side, there will be 17mm missing...
Then I see one option as placing 11mm OSB and then 6mm renovation plasterboard to build it out to the same level as the glulam beam and then plasterboard both sides all the way up to the ceiling.
The second alternative is to buy 45x120 studs and run all pieces through a table saw with a fence at 112mm and thus avoid OSB and renovation plasterboard.
However, it will be more complicated with insulation... should I still use 120 insulation and just compress it a bit?
Then with the interior door, I’ll have to trim it anyway… so it feels like it doesn’t matter which alternative...
How would all of you do it?
//Robin.
Plane down studs from 120mm to 112 is my suggestion.
// Daniel
// Daniel
Yes, it feels like that's the best option..D Daaaaaniel said:
And also the cheapest since I won't need OSB.. though it's not a bad idea if you're going to screw up a lot of things..
but it will be cheaper to plane.
How would you handle insulation?
120 or 95?
I myself would have used a hand saw and fence to the desired measurement; if you have a table saw, it should be easy and smooth to adjust the studs.
I choose mineral wool if I want soundproofing; it probably doesn't matter much which thickness you choose for the insulation if you only have a standard interior door without sealing strips.
I choose mineral wool if I want soundproofing; it probably doesn't matter much which thickness you choose for the insulation if you only have a standard interior door without sealing strips.
Osb, rule, osb. Then you have a layer of 2.5 mm träfiberskiva on each side (or two on one side) of the glulam beam. Then you just plaster everything. That way, there won't be any strange insulation thickness either. Type...
Thanks for the response!
The last bit about making the studs 101mm and then using OSB wasn't a bad idea. I'll think about it.
then it won't be that a 95mm insulation is very loose
The insulation is mostly to dampen a little, right? You usually insulate all interior walls, don't you?
Or is it better to skip it?
We'll see which option it will be. However, I think I'm leaning towards planing them down to 112. Then whether I use a hand circular saw or borrow my uncle's table saw, we'll see!
The last bit about making the studs 101mm and then using OSB wasn't a bad idea. I'll think about it.
then it won't be that a 95mm insulation is very loose
The insulation is mostly to dampen a little, right? You usually insulate all interior walls, don't you?
Or is it better to skip it?
We'll see which option it will be. However, I think I'm leaning towards planing them down to 112. Then whether I use a hand circular saw or borrow my uncle's table saw, we'll see!
yeah okay!T tergo said:
But maybe it could be good to have some insulation so there won't be any echo?
It will become a children's room. The room outside is a playroom type that then has an open archway to the hall/kitchen.
Double gypsum if it is joined to all floors, walls, and ceilings in both layers dampens sound well. It is much more practical to sheet the first layer with OSB so it's easy to attach shelves and such to the walls.
What do you mean by sealed? Yeah.. I'll have to think about how I do itF fribygg said:
It is possible to build a wall of two independent staggered standing 45x45 studs with air in between as well, then it is easy to reach the desired measurement and the soundproofing becomes somewhat better.
You said something there!F fribygg said:
That actually sounded quite simple.. like two identical modules so the door opening is in the same place