Attach glass profile to IPE beam

[Derbyboy]

Invaluable!

The next step would be to investigate which materials work together.....

 

[Matti_75]

Secure it with a bolt gun or self-tapping screw. So now you have all possible suggestions. Choose one that you think sounds good and that you can buy nearby. They all work equally well.

 

[mexitegel]

Stainless and aluminum work together, the galvanic corrosion is negligible unless it's directly in saltwater type.

Galvanized has no impact as long as the zinc coating is intact.

Personally, I would have chosen a stainless self-drilling screw.

 

[Derbyboy]

The plan is to 1) add a little extra in material thickness and 2) paint the entire construction

 

[richardtenggren]

Fasten it with a bolt gun or self-tapping screws. So now you have all possible suggestions. Choose one that sounds good to you and that you can buy locally. They all work equally well

How is the precision of a bolt gun/nail gun for steel?
I was also thinking of suggesting that, but I lack experience with it, though I'm curious.

 

[Maijckel]

How is the precision of a bolt gun/nail gun for steel?
I was also thinking of suggesting it, but lack experience with such, but am curious.

I would have skipped the bolt gun when it comes to sensitive parts like aluminum profile for the ceiling. If you hit the center of the I-beam, the nail doesn't go through, and then you have to try to remove it when it's sticking up through the aluminum profile and also stuck in the steel = not easy.

Also, it's a bit dangerous to shoot steel nails into steel

 

[richardtenggren]

I would skip the bolt gun when it comes to sensitive parts like an aluminum profile for the roof. If you hit the middle of the I-beam, the nail won't go through, and then you have to try to remove it when it's sticking up through the aluminum profile and still attached to the steel = not easy.

It's also a bit dangerous to shoot steel nails into steel

I understand, my intended application is less critical. It's about attaching floor joists/rails resting on the "lower" flange of an H-beam, the problem is whether it's possible to shoot at an angle.

 

[Peter2400]

Only glue is an option but it feels shaky as it's an exposed location in the Stockholm archipelago.

I spontaneously think that it's more stable, no risk of leakage, and less shaky than screws

 

[Vante]

Pop rivets in a zigzag pattern?

 

[Maijckel]

I'm considering the best way to attach an aluminum profile to a steel beam.

Using only adhesive is an option, but it feels unreliable given the exposed location in the Stockholm archipelago.

Is it possible to drill a hole and then thread it?

Do you have to use an I-beam?

Wouldn't it look nicer with a rectangular hollow profile (vkr or kkr)? Then you can use self-drilling screws that won't be visible.

 

[Derbyboy]

I spontaneously think that it's more stable, no risk of leakage and less wobbly than screws

That's what I thought too…but then I thought Stockholm archipelago, saltwater, 20-30 years…..

Could cause significant damage if a 21 m2 roof lifts….

 

[Derbyboy]

Do you have to use an I-beam?

Wouldn't it look nicer with a rectangular profile (vkr or kkr). Then you can use self-drilling thread screws that are not visible.

Yes, I am working on exploring which dimensions I would need in VKR.

Definitely looks nicer!

 

[Maijckel]

Yes, I'm working on investigating which dimensions I would need in VKR.

It definitely looks better!

Self-drilling thread screw will be at least 10-20 times faster than drilling and threading

 

[Höghus]

... However, it is not like the one in your picture but a thread-forming screw looks like a regular M-threaded screw at first glance and fits with a regular nut. But on closer inspection, the screw is slightly conical at the front and slightly triangularly compressed at the front. This allows it to form its own thread in moderately hard steel types, such as in beams. You then drill a slightly larger hole than if you were threading with a tap because the tap removes material as chips while the thread-forming screw presses material from the thread's valleys to its peaks.

Well... both the screw in the picture and the ones you are talking about are probably called thread-forming. The ones you are thinking of are likely Taptite, which create machine/cylindrical threads.
https://www.bulten.com/sv-SE/Technologies/Threads/Taptite

According to https://www.nfgab.se/sortiment/c/fa...-och-borrande/604-gangpressande-skruv-taptite stainless thread-forming screws are recommended only for soft materials. Probably because stainless has lower strength.

/Höghus

 

[Matti_75]

What is the precision of a bolt gun/nail gun for steel?
I was also considering suggesting it, but lack the experience with such, yet I'm curious.

The nail stays where you want it. We fasten everything that way as it's the easiest method. In your case, I would use Hilti Bx3 with 14mm stålspk