It becomes tricky to drill straight through the beam because the profile is supposed to be in the middle and then it's steel all the way (also not very thick).
The beam is an IPE100
Does it have to be in the middle?
Otherwise, it's very easy with a "balkskruv" that drills and makes the threads in one go.
Otherwise, it's very easy with a "balkskruv" that drills and makes the threads in one go.
Must and must, it'll probably look best.
An IPE100 is 55mm wide in the flanges. The aluminum profile is 65mm.
An IPE100 is 55mm wide in the flanges. The aluminum profile is 65mm.
I think a beam screw will be too coarse.
I think it will be good to place the profile on the beam. Drill through both the profile and into the middle of the beam about 10 mm M5 maybe. Remove the profile, run the tap, test the holes, and then apply glue and put the profile back. Maybe drill holes every 25 cm.
Insert screw and washer.
I think it will be good to place the profile on the beam. Drill through both the profile and into the middle of the beam about 10 mm M5 maybe. Remove the profile, run the tap, test the holes, and then apply glue and put the profile back. Maybe drill holes every 25 cm.
Insert screw and washer.
Drilling and tapping straight down into life works fine too. But it's no fun to tap bottom holes.
But do the holes have to be in the middle? There seems to be plenty of space to screw into the aluminum profile.
Another option is to use blind rivets. It's much faster to install than messing with tapping or fiddling with screws and nuts. But it requires that you don't drill down into life.
But do the holes have to be in the middle? There seems to be plenty of space to screw into the aluminum profile.
Another option is to use blind rivets. It's much faster to install than messing with tapping or fiddling with screws and nuts. But it requires that you don't drill down into life.
Doesn't a blind rivet need a through hole?PNO said:
Maybe they don't need to be in the center, but it feels best. If you drill to the side (same section as the board), you can bet it will start to leak. But it doesn't seem to be a problem, really, to drill through in the same section as the board and maybe place spacers or thin bolts (m5).
Sounds like there are at least a number of ways to get that profile there 
Exactly what I wrote - a blind rivet works if you can drill somewhere other than the middle of the beam. The web is, therefore, what's in the middle of the beam and holds together the edges called flanges.
The tip about the thread-forming screw is also good. However, it's not the one in your picture. A thread-forming screw looks like a regular M-threaded screw at first glance and fits with a regular nut. But upon closer inspection, the screw is slightly conical at the front and slightly triangularly pressed at the front. This allows it to form its own thread in moderately hard steel types, such as in beams. You would drill a slightly larger hole than if you were to thread with a tap because the tap cuts away material as chips, while the thread-forming screw presses material from the thread's valleys to its peaks.
The tip about the thread-forming screw is also good. However, it's not the one in your picture. A thread-forming screw looks like a regular M-threaded screw at first glance and fits with a regular nut. But upon closer inspection, the screw is slightly conical at the front and slightly triangularly pressed at the front. This allows it to form its own thread in moderately hard steel types, such as in beams. You would drill a slightly larger hole than if you were to thread with a tap because the tap cuts away material as chips, while the thread-forming screw presses material from the thread's valleys to its peaks.
Kind of.D Derbyboy said:
I would not have chosen stainless steel but a steel screw. I believe it might be the aluminum strip that corrodes otherwise.
Then I would probably try to find screws with a torx head.
But I'm no corrosion expert, maybe someone else can elaborate on the reasoning.
/Höghus