Hello!
I've come with a few beginner questions here on the forum lately and here comes another one.
I'm considering wall height when building myself, what are the options and what should I think about optimizing?
If, for example, I build a wall that is 2.49 high, (45 base plate + 240 (195 studs standing) + 45 top plate). Then I should be able to buy lengths of 4.8 m for the 195-studs and get minimal waste. (Can you even use the end grain of the studs?)
If I install drywall inside and outside - what measurements should I use for this to be as smooth as possible and possibly avoid cutting the drywall?
Anything else I need to take into account?
I've come with a few beginner questions here on the forum lately and here comes another one.
I'm considering wall height when building myself, what are the options and what should I think about optimizing?
If, for example, I build a wall that is 2.49 high, (45 base plate + 240 (195 studs standing) + 45 top plate). Then I should be able to buy lengths of 4.8 m for the 195-studs and get minimal waste. (Can you even use the end grain of the studs?)
If I install drywall inside and outside - what measurements should I use for this to be as smooth as possible and possibly avoid cutting the drywall?
Anything else I need to take into account?
Hello,
If the roof trusses are on top of the wall plate, i.e., not recessed, then I would cut the studs to 2310 so that the total with the sill and wall plate is 2400. I like attaching the drywall to both the sill and the wall plate. I personally missed this in my planning and had to insert extra 45-studs on the sill to be able to attach the drywall at the bottom. Then I cut 45mm drywall at the bottom and spackled it together.
You can also cut the studs to 2320 (total=2410) to have 10mm free at the bottom. Easier to attach the drywall then. You can raise the drywall (carefully) with a crowbar so it sits flush against the roof truss when you screw it in place.
I guess splitting 4.8 in half is so you can have a vertical panel that is 2400 on the outside? Otherwise, you'll have to explain
If you buy lumber at byggmax, my experience is that they are "approximately" 4800. They can also be 4797
Plus, the blade takes a few mm.
Note, I am not a carpenter. Just sharing personal experiences
If the roof trusses are on top of the wall plate, i.e., not recessed, then I would cut the studs to 2310 so that the total with the sill and wall plate is 2400. I like attaching the drywall to both the sill and the wall plate. I personally missed this in my planning and had to insert extra 45-studs on the sill to be able to attach the drywall at the bottom. Then I cut 45mm drywall at the bottom and spackled it together.
You can also cut the studs to 2320 (total=2410) to have 10mm free at the bottom. Easier to attach the drywall then. You can raise the drywall (carefully) with a crowbar so it sits flush against the roof truss when you screw it in place.
I guess splitting 4.8 in half is so you can have a vertical panel that is 2400 on the outside? Otherwise, you'll have to explain
If you buy lumber at byggmax, my experience is that they are "approximately" 4800. They can also be 4797
Plus, the blade takes a few mm.
Note, I am not a carpenter. Just sharing personal experiences
Best to plan on cutting off 10 cm of end grain. It might be miscut or cracked, swollen, or the wrong length. Then it’s good to check which products you can buy in a simple and cost-effective way. There is gypsum board in 2700, 2500, and 2400 in various stores. Nowadays, 2500 is the most common. You might then want the framework to be 2520. Then don't worry too much about minimizing waste. It goes quickly to cut and slice. If you want to use outdoor gypsum for stabilization and wind protection, you can, for example, tape the seams.
Sometimes one chooses to install battens, such as 28x70, under the rafters along the entire house, which facilitates electrical installation + spotlights and holds the vapor barrier against the rafter. Then the ceiling is installed on the battens.
Hello! Thanks for the reply,
why is 450 cc better? Are you thinking of disc material that weighs a bit less or something else? It will probably be more expensive?
While we're at it, do you have any tips when it comes to open versus closed eaves? I'm thinking of a vaulted ceiling + possibly a loft and it will probably be scissor trusses (but not fully decided).
why is 450 cc better? Are you thinking of disc material that weighs a bit less or something else? It will probably be more expensive?
While we're at it, do you have any tips when it comes to open versus closed eaves? I'm thinking of a vaulted ceiling + possibly a loft and it will probably be scissor trusses (but not fully decided).
Got a brief reply earlier (Sweden is playing the handball semifinals)
I recently installed 900-drywall in my attefall house. Since I did almost everything myself, I appreciated the slightly lighter boards, especially on the ceiling, which is 3600 high at one end
The slightly less insulation must be marginal, depending on how big you build?
9 studs (cc600) vs 12 (cc450) at 5400mm, or 3 versus four if you break it down.
But sure, the cost will be 25% more for the studs at cc450.
I imagine it feels more stable with cc450 too. But on the other hand, I did my garage with cc600. Drywall plus OSB. Doesn't feel like it's going to blow away anytime soon
But then insulating the roof with cc1200 is no fun. For that reason, I would build with cc600 if I were to do it again.
I recently installed 900-drywall in my attefall house. Since I did almost everything myself, I appreciated the slightly lighter boards, especially on the ceiling, which is 3600 high at one end
The slightly less insulation must be marginal, depending on how big you build?
9 studs (cc600) vs 12 (cc450) at 5400mm, or 3 versus four if you break it down.
But sure, the cost will be 25% more for the studs at cc450.
I imagine it feels more stable with cc450 too. But on the other hand, I did my garage with cc600. Drywall plus OSB. Doesn't feel like it's going to blow away anytime soon
But then insulating the roof with cc1200 is no fun. For that reason, I would build with cc600 if I were to do it again.
It doesn't have to be a walk in the park, building a house is occasionally a bit physically demanding, but for those who don't do it full-time for several years, the work environment reasons with 900 boards can hardly be decisive. The time-saving with 1200 boards is significant, costs are lower, and the insulation value is better the more sparse you can have the studs. If you find it difficult to insulate well between trusses with cc1200, it's advisable to choose blown-in loose fill, which is faster, cheaper, and provides better insulation value than dealing with boards or rolls of insulation.1977bjorn said:
It was a short reply earlier (Sweden is playing the handball semifinals)
I recently installed 900-plasterboard in my Attefall house. Since I did almost everything myself, I appreciated the slightly lighter boards, especially on the ceiling which is 3600 high at one end
The slightly less insulation must be marginal, depending on how big you build?
9 studs (cc600) vs 12 (cc450) at 5400mm, or 3 vs four if you break it down.
But of course, the cost will be 25% more for the studs at cc450
I imagine it will be more stable with cc450 as well. But on the other hand, I built my garage with cc600. Plasterboard plus OSB. Doesn't feel like it's going to blow away anytime soon
But then insulating the roof with cc1200 is no walk in the park. For that reason, I would have built with cc600 if I were to do it again.
Certainly, it's more stable and rigid with closer studs; I have on one occasion framed a bathroom floor with cc300 for that reason.
I would choose the stud height according to the desired ceiling height, it's nice to have, for example, 270cm in ceiling height if you can afford and have the possibility.
Hello, thanks for the considerations,
as mentioned, it's leaning towards scissors trusses and I was indeed thinking of having loose fill in these cases. One consideration: if I am to create an air gap against the roof sheathing, maybe cc120 is preferable? I haven't decided on the surface layer for the ceiling yet; it will be either paneling or drywall, but am I bound to a certain size of the drywall due to the trusses? Or do I later install the battens/installation layer as I see fit?
Same question with the walls, I'm thinking of an installation layer on the load-bearing frame, and this doesn't have to be directly over the load-bearing studs, right? Then I would create thermal bridges, wouldn't I? But I'm a bit unsure here, if I place a 45x45 stud with only two fastenings, I assume it would be too flimsy, so would I need to put noggings everywhere then..? Looking at the wood guide, it's not typically two incoming 45x45 layers, but I've seen some build like that...
as mentioned, it's leaning towards scissors trusses and I was indeed thinking of having loose fill in these cases. One consideration: if I am to create an air gap against the roof sheathing, maybe cc120 is preferable? I haven't decided on the surface layer for the ceiling yet; it will be either paneling or drywall, but am I bound to a certain size of the drywall due to the trusses? Or do I later install the battens/installation layer as I see fit?
Same question with the walls, I'm thinking of an installation layer on the load-bearing frame, and this doesn't have to be directly over the load-bearing studs, right? Then I would create thermal bridges, wouldn't I? But I'm a bit unsure here, if I place a 45x45 stud with only two fastenings, I assume it would be too flimsy, so would I need to put noggings everywhere then..? Looking at the wood guide, it's not typically two incoming 45x45 layers, but I've seen some build like that...
The installation layer should preferably be cross-laid against the load-bearing wall studs to avoid thermal bridges, gain stability, and facilitate electrical installation.D dogpox said:
The wall usually achieves very good stability from cross-laid layers of studs and boards on at least one side.