Hello. I would like help with the weight on a tile roof versus a metal roof.
My roof is 112 sqm with two-curved tiles. I have an inner wall
that is going to be removed on the upper floor. According to an old skilled carpenter, he said the following: if the tiles are to remain, I need to reinforce where the wall is removed. But he also said that if I have a metal roof, I don't need to reinforce it. Can that really be true? He said that the roof weighs an awful lot with tiles and wet snow on it. Is there any calculation for the different roofs?
Hoping for an answer from someone who knows this.
I myself cannot drive a nail without ending up in the hospital :-[ :'(
My roof is 112 sqm with two-curved tiles. I have an inner wall
that is going to be removed on the upper floor. According to an old skilled carpenter, he said the following: if the tiles are to remain, I need to reinforce where the wall is removed. But he also said that if I have a metal roof, I don't need to reinforce it. Can that really be true? He said that the roof weighs an awful lot with tiles and wet snow on it. Is there any calculation for the different roofs?
Hoping for an answer from someone who knows this.
I myself cannot drive a nail without ending up in the hospital :-[ :'(
I can't imagine that there can be more than a 25kg/sqm difference between clay tiles and a metal roof. The snow load is the major part and it should matter less. It's clear that if you're on the borderline, the carpenter is probably right. Consult with a structural engineer who can calculate it a bit.
I think the carpenter considers in his analysis that if you have a metal roof, snow doesn't stick as easily. Most of it falls off. So it involves both lower snow load from the roofing material and from the snow.
Now, I don't think you can count on that effect when designing a roof. Because there is no guarantee that a lot of snow can't settle anyway under certain weather conditions.
In terms of cost, it's probably cheaper to reinforce the roof than to replace it. But of course, that depends on how it needs to be reinforced, as reinforcement might, in the worst case, mean tearing down the entire roof and "starting over." But hopefully, it shouldn't have to be that bad.
Now, I don't think you can count on that effect when designing a roof. Because there is no guarantee that a lot of snow can't settle anyway under certain weather conditions.
In terms of cost, it's probably cheaper to reinforce the roof than to replace it. But of course, that depends on how it needs to be reinforced, as reinforcement might, in the worst case, mean tearing down the entire roof and "starting over." But hopefully, it shouldn't have to be that bad.
Hi,
I saw your plans to open up to the "kattvinden" and I have similar plans. However, that type of wall often is part of the roof truss construction. I recently went through this in my topic "planning to tear down a heart wall," and I received great input from some people on the forum there. I recommend reading it. I assume that what you/I want to do has already been done in many houses and often without a structural engineer being involved. I've owned a house for a year where such a wall had already been taken down. I rebuilt it and noted at least a 4 cm sag in the remaining upper beam. Nothing happened, but it probably "stressed" the rest of the construction a bit.
Best regards,
Hans O
I saw your plans to open up to the "kattvinden" and I have similar plans. However, that type of wall often is part of the roof truss construction. I recently went through this in my topic "planning to tear down a heart wall," and I received great input from some people on the forum there. I recommend reading it. I assume that what you/I want to do has already been done in many houses and often without a structural engineer being involved. I've owned a house for a year where such a wall had already been taken down. I rebuilt it and noted at least a 4 cm sag in the remaining upper beam. Nothing happened, but it probably "stressed" the rest of the construction a bit.
Best regards,
Hans O
I have had a carpenter and a construction engineer. The carpenter says it's okay to remove everything so that the attic becomes part of the room. Since the metal roof will weigh about 3 tons less compared to what it weighs today, about 4.5 tons, without snow load. The only problem, they both say, is that I have beams that are too long, about 4.50, which makes it a bit wobbly. They were too weak, 3x15 was a little, they thought. I was then advised to insert a steel beam according to the construction engineer. It's strange how different professionals say different things. The carpenter is well-known for this type of old house. The engineer says to ask the carpenter :-/
Can't a glulam beam be added so the trusses and walls are less stressed? :-[ Here's what the trusses look like
Can't a glulam beam be added so the trusses and walls are less stressed? :-[ Here's what the trusses look like
Hello!
I am going to do exactly the same thing. My roof trusses are also too weak to open up the kattvind. The solution is that I lay a 195 beam parallel to the roof beam. Additionally, I then have more room to lay thicker insulation.
Hope you understand.
/Sam
I am going to do exactly the same thing. My roof trusses are also too weak to open up the kattvind. The solution is that I lay a 195 beam parallel to the roof beam. Additionally, I then have more room to lay thicker insulation.
Hope you understand.
/Sam
Above a certain roof pitch, you can reduce the snow load; I think it's linear between 30 and 60 degrees. I don't think the standard differentiates between tile and metal, even though such a difference probably exists in reality, and tiles are significantly heavier than metal. But it's still the snow load that's the big factor. Additionally, my parents had a shed with a corrugated plastic roof, and despite the low pitch, the snow used to slowly slide off it.H hempularen said: