Timber garage with a brick veneer. It seems like there is no air gap. Now I'm going to replace the garage doors and realize that I have nothing to screw into since a 100x100 post has completely rotted.

The plastered brick on the outside looks fine, and I would prefer to repair from the inside even if it doesn't last 100 years.

What is the best way to construct my repair?
 
  • Drawing of a wooden garage structure with notes on parts like brick veneer, gypsum, and damaged pillars from 1963. It includes repair suggestions.
  • Rotting wooden column inside a brick garage wall with missing ventilation gap, viewed from above with crumbling wood and masonry.
  • Corner view of a brick wall with visible decay, showing crumbled mortar and rotten wood fibers, potentially indicating structural damage.
  • Rotted wooden beam next to brick wall in garage construction, lacking air gap.
  • Close-up of a decaying wooden beam inside a brick garage with missing air gap, showing damage and need for repair.
  • Damaged interior garage wall with exposed insulation and wiring, indicating absence of structural support due to rotted wooden beam.
  • Interior view of a wooden garage ceiling and wall. Visible hooks, structural damage, and insulation are present, indicating ongoing renovation or repair work.
  • Decayed wooden post in garage wall with missing air gap and exposed insulation, showing deteriorated structural integrity near garage door.
Why not replace the pelaren?
 
Yes, it should of course be replaced.
I'm more wondering what I should do outside of this (since I'm fixing from the inside).
Of course, I can put in new asphalt board from the inside and then a new post. But then there will be a gap against the existing asphalt board and also no air gap in this exposed corner.
Of course, I want to tear down as little as needed.
 
Why not fold in a wind barrier before the new pillar?
 
And no new asphalt board do you mean?
That might be smart. Then there should automatically be a bit of air gap as well.

There is also diffusion-open wind protection plastic. Could that be better than paper?
 
I would choose regular Örnpapp, it's simple, good, and cheap.
 
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