Building Materials and Construction Technology
micke4711: I didn't get a reply, but I went ahead anyway! Not exactly "frost-free depth" but significantly better than before, I thought. I managed to lift the house to almost level, and then straighten it with diagonal tension straps and then nail straps. The only problem now is that the door can't be closed :)
billyby: I rented a wet grinder (from Ramirent) with diamond pad cushions last time I cast the slab. It turned out great! I'll do the same this time. Mostly because I want to bring out the stones (terazzo) and it's quite hard work to sand by hand. The pads themselves are quite expensive, so they can be bought cheaper on Amazon or similar. You start with 50 and then go down in "grit size" accordingly.
bpconstruction: I just bought a house with these panels in the ceiling and have similar thoughts. I'm considering whether to keep them or install plasterboard. They do work, but I agree that they give a cheap feeling. I'm also wondering if the foil in the panels functions as a vapor barrier or not.
AndersKr: [citat] Hi Jonatan, Yes, it's an imp timber, but it's located in a basement level in the middle of the house, so I judge it won't get damp. The material in the ceiling is gypsum between the floor joists, and above that lies a wooden floor from the upper floor. Yes, I suspected it's battens that are relevant under the gypsum, but it will require a lot of individual adjustments everywhere as the
hempularen: If there was a stop, you might have had a bucket underneath when disassembling. The gasket might have ended up in it.
hapazard: Image of the remaining wall, and from the other side with door and lining mounted.
EddieHansson: [citat] Träguiden writes "Note that in rain-exposed situations, vertical ventilation battens should be mounted behind the nailing battens. Minimum dimension for ventilation battens 25x48." https://www.traguiden.se/konstruktion/konstruktionsexempel/vaggar/yttervagg---generella-detaljlosningar/yttervagg-med-staende-panel/ But you can probably have something smaller. A fadadskiva is stiff and risks
byron v2: [citat] There is an obsession with digging around the entire house and so-called drainage. More or less advanced systems. I don't know if it's the thoroughly corrupt craftsman industry that has managed to fool the Swedish people into relentlessly draining left and right, often just because. Proper ventilation, the right materials, and adjusted heating are often enough. Moreover, water will come.
Chulis: [bild] Anyone have an idea about the weight difference in a canopy made of aluminum compared to impregnated wood? See the picture,
PeterFalun: [citat] We did a similar measurement as described here https://radoninstrument.com/blog/hur-kan-man-genomfora-en-radonbesiktning-pa-2-timmar/
FredrikR: [citat] And in the thread linked below, forkroppa is clarified. (y) https://www.byggahus.se/forum/threads/figursaga-foerkroppa-halkaelslist.366048/
Kojfabriken: Thanks for the tip! I suspect it's the easiest method.
Mattias Andreasson: Try a Grinding Disc/PCD Cup/Wheel with Carbide Teeth on the angle grinder. On the walls in the basement where the plaster was 100% healthy, the diamond wheel worked better for me, but on the wall where the plaster was a bit moisture-damaged and soft, the grinding disc was insanely much faster. [bild]
Dannen25: Regarding the plastic in the walls, should the insulation be replaced with wood fibers like Hunton and a vapor barrier instead? The original plastic in the wall probably didn't do anything since it's not connected to the ceiling's plastic, and there was also a large gap between each section, not taped together. Still, no signs of moisture in the wall. However, only 115mm total insulation.
zarkov: Last fall, I replaced two old built-in wardrobes; we simply sawed off screws and nails with a multi-tool and then tore apart the cabinets. Since then, I've bought a reciprocating saw, so that will probably be my first choice when I replace the next three cabinets. I would have probably placed the new wardrobes on the floor, possibly propped them up so they are level with the floor, and then built
KajsaMalin: [citat] So this became a bit strange; it should say iron-rich water in the title.
Christian2: Yes, an angle profile in aluminum would probably be preferable if I hadn't already screwed in the OSB, gypsum, and spackled afterward :rofl: I will take that into account next time.
PetKim: [citat] Thanks! I see EPS works with tiles now - but it seems you have to self-level with EPS-cement over it. Nevertheless, it's a good solution - if it ends up being a concrete slab. I'm still looking for alternatives for wood/steel - we'll see if it's possible. Thanks for the help so far! Peter
KjellTimell: That sounds reasonable, then it is on par with other Ångbromsar that have SD5.
Tomture61: If wood gets wet from rain, it dries up quite quickly, whereas if insulation gets wet, it's not good at all. And you should never enclose moisture.
bryggarebob: We'll probably try painting directly on, and if that doesn't work, we'll apply a väv and paint again.
trasan: [citat] Yes, you might be right, thanks for the tips.
Max Sjölin: Hello everyone. We are renovating a house from the early 1900s. We are now thinking of insulating the outer walls and also the inner walls. The crux is, or maybe it's just me being a big amateur and not understanding, but the designer who planned the layout didn't include any air gap? Neither on the inside nor the outside. I talked to my contractor who said they would put a 20mm air gap on the
.David.: Hello! For an existing interior wall without doors or penetrations, which is built with 70 mm wooden studs, insulation, OSB, and single drywall, and is built as a tension wall against 14 mm parquet flooring on a concrete foundation -- how much more will it dampen by: 1) An additional layer of drywall on both sides of the wall? 2) A separate wall with 45 mm wooden studs, insulation, and single
BäverBerra: [citat] It doesn't hurt to put some construction glue on, do as you please.