Building Materials and Construction Technology
Demmpa: Dad bought hollow core moldings and turned them "backwards" to replace the metal plinths. [bild] There are special moldings for that, for example, https://www.bauhaus.se/rorsockel-primo-innerdel-z-form-28-5x56x3000mm
Anonymiserad 405730: [citat] Yes, that works well. You can have a spacer under the pen, don't use a too wide spacer; the narrower it is, the more accurately it follows the line on the floor.
connyake: I am converting a playhouse into a chicken coop. For the floor and walls, I am using form plywood and need to seal between these. The problem is that it's below freezing outside and is expected to stay that way for a while. The paint joint compounds I have looked at can withstand many degrees below freezing once dried but need to be kept frost-free beforehand. I don't want to use silicone as it
Inge Johansson 1: Currently, the outer walls of an old cottage are constructed as follows. Beadboard, some form of paper, sawdust, some form of tar paper, and then vertical board-and-batten siding. The plan is to replace the sawdust with hunton wood fiber insulation when the siding is later replaced, and then also have a wind barrier and an air gap behind the siding. On the inside, we plan to install new beadboard
basseman: Cast again with fine concrete or expansion concrete, concrete repair mortar will become unreasonably expensive. You can repair holes with A-mortar before plastering. Finja and Weber have good instructions on how to plaster concrete hollow blocks.
pette: [citat] Absolutely. It's actually not uncommon to have drainage pumps inside basements. Good luck👌
egge80: Without a doubt, it would be stable enough, especially if the wife is satisfied.
Immobil: It should hold if you anchor it properly at both ends.
Arne999: I have a concrete floor in the workshop of about 40sqm that is old and worn, at least 40 years old. The paint from who knows when has peeled off, as well as the surface in some places. Various settlement cracks (which I think have stopped moving). I have painted a similar floor before with some random floor paint, but it hasn't become particularly durable. The plan is to grind in some way, repair
nino: It depends a bit on how big an extension you're planning and what the plot looks like. One solution might be to dig away 50-100cm above the hole and to the side. Cast edge beams, build up with masonry and make a wooden floor structure, as well as a hatch down, or a smaller door from the outside.
Odi et Amo: what is the staircase made of? It looks like cast steps with pea gravel. If there are small damages, you can repair and sprinkle on. There are also companies that have an epoxy product that creates a new surface layer. None of them is a solution if it is the construction itself you are worried about.
josifin: [citat] It might be that simple! I assumed they don't sell like that, but it's not a no until it's a no. I'll definitely check!
boohoo: Polish freehand, not much more is needed to make it uneven.
bo-ca: [citat] Ok, so it requires another stud there at the back! I was planning to set it edge to edge with angle brackets but maybe I need to rethink that.
Daniel 109: I have my stairs on piers, both at the front and against the house. If you use blocks like in the film, you could use angle brackets to fix them to the blocks.
RIMOL: Hi, so I am building two interior walls, the left one is for TV/acoustic panel so just plywood. The right one has a pocket door. Realized a bit late that the overlap should have been the other way around. Should I redo this or will an aluminum corner profile work well enough to putty/paint the entire side?
Lappa123: I am redoing the entire floor joists in the old log part of the house. There was rot in the ground beams, sill, and joists as well as a completely enclosed crawl space. I have also opened up the wall towards the rest of the foundation. I will cover the ground with plastic as I have in the rest of the foundation and use a sorption dehumidifier. The problem arises at the chimney. There, I will go
Ooli: Going to cut down two walls, one of which is joined with the joists. Propping up tonight and running the saw through everything tomorrow 😈 Talked to a structural engineer earlier this week, but he hasn't had time to dimension the glued laminated timber for me yet since he's been sick and probably won't be back for a while. Unfortunate for him and his family, of course 😔 Anyone see any
Mats-S: Replace the boards with 13 mm drywall, it can handle cavities up to 1 cm without problems. You can also drywall the top side if you provide support for it on the wall, between the beams that are visible protruding. If the corner is exposed, attach a corner bead to it so that it doesn't get damaged.
Dr Benz: [citat] I would not install underfloor heating with so little insulation. Heating for the birds. And definitely not without insulation.
MathiasS: The lightweight concrete insulates. The total U-value is probably quite okay, or at least not a disaster.
Dr Benz: I only use parquet because I like it better. Less noise and warmer and better feeling. Highly subjective. We bought Kährs 3-strip on sale for 350: this summer. Don't regret it for a second. Very high-quality feel and very smooth to lay.