Building Materials and Construction Technology
Anonymiserad 405730: [citat] How does it look, do you have a picture? When masonry is being built and mortar spills, hydrochloric acid is usually used. Here’s some info from Wieneberger... If the masonry is to be cleaned with acid, a ready-made mortar acid with a ratio of 1:20 (1 part 30-percent hydrochloric acid to 20 parts water) should be used. We recommend using a sponge board and a bucket with rollers, so the
fribygg: [citat] If you drive in two such screws and load them with your own body weight, you'll know if you can trust the screws.
gurrre: [citat] Haven't opened it up yet, but I can imagine it's without insulation. Heard that insulation without constant heating is not preferable. Unless you're dealing with that kind of träfiberisolering and stuff...
nino: Considering whether I should do a smaller renovation since it ended up being quite extensive... For example, skipping lowering the ceilings, but that doesn't save many thousands; the downside is I'd have to use the old conduit pipes, which might be okay but would feel better with new ones. Now it's the rest of all the windows, so there I can "save" or postpone 10,000, but otherwise, there's not
ILoveFunkis: [citat] You are absolutely right. 😊 I thought of trying to find a provisional solution that is cheap and looks okay until everything else is bought and ready. In the end (in a year or so) it will be a small storage/pantry or a built-in cabinet, but I'll need to hire someone for that. Unless I get lucky on Tinder😂 (just kidding).
z_bumbi: The easiest solution is probably to clamp with boards screwed into each stud, although a cheap tarpaulin will break. Choose either more expensive tarpaulins or another solution like hiding the tools. A pile of "junk" with some empty boxes and a few empty canisters hides most of it.
Fishermansfriend: [citat] Yes, that's roughly how it got resolved, thanks for the tips.
Roffe K: [citat] You have chosen a small joist hanger. The larger models have both bigger and more holes. If you get more holes, you can use wood screws or construction screws at more points and still achieve sufficient strength even if some of the holes are in the gap.
hempularen: Fix probably builds a little less than that, but it might be enough. Otherwise, you can just change the door frames if it looks strange. Not a big operation.
Anonymiserad 405730: [citat] Yes, you fill your mold that you will cast in with concrete, vibrate the concrete, and then lower the entire fastening package into it. Once you are satisfied with the positioning, tap a little on the threaded rods with a hammer so that the concrete closes around them. A reinforcement tip is to thread one or a couple of nuts onto each rod, which makes it impossible to pull them up.
Kolmårdstomten: I have an idea that there are floor chipboards with embedded leveling screws available on the market, similar to the Nivell system with plastic screws every 20-30 cm. As an alternative to floor leveling compound.
Danne213: Let the truck hang with the load in the air while you unload? Just a bit of extra standing time... Option 2 could be to send the boards up to someone up there who receives them?
evading: Many misunderstandings indeed, see point 4 at Gyproc for what they suggest should be done about it. https://www.gyproc.se/gor-det-sjalv/bygga-innervagg-med-trastomme
Stefan1972: It's probably better to have wall vents in strategic places then if it's just a cold garage.
leachim: Hello! I'm working on the final touches of the conservatory construction and need help with two questions. I'm building my conservatory at an angle to the house and want/need to seal between the polycarbonate sheets of the conservatory and the underside of the sheets that comprise my eaves. Previously, the eaves were covered with panels only, so ventilation was sufficient before. If I sheet metal
Josag: Hi. I've started planning a bit for an upcoming chicken coop build but I'm contemplating the construction of the exterior walls. I'm considering using 45x95 studs, but the question is, when do you only use vertical studs, and when do you need the support in the middle? I was thinking of using "enkelboden" as a starting point but making it a bit longer and want 45x95 to fit in some thicker
Anonymiserad 405730: [citat] Yes, wood together with masonry is worse in terms of moisture, mixing types and then plastering means you will need expansion joints where the different materials meet, otherwise it cracks and becomes void. But that the windows are made of wood is a completely different matter than changing a load-bearing structure..
postkontrollen: [citat] Unfortunately, some houses were built with plastic both on the inside and outside. Perhaps not very common but it did occur. I have seen it myself and it came from the industry and not DIY builds where it incidentally also occurred. :-(
z_bumbi: Make a series of trial castings and go as far as including finishing on the most promising samples.
jonaserik: Then you should do quite well. Good luck and Merry Christmas to you.
Lulaua: Depends on the load they need to handle. There are tables to check as well as which nail pattern should be used.
Owe7: [citat] Thanks for all the info and tips, very good, also reassuring to hear that the ventilation could be resolved in the simpler way. I'll start sketching my own solution after I've checked with my insurance company.
Ashwani: Hello! I live in a 1.5-story house and have a built-in balcony. We have renovated the balcony by installing new roofing felt and sheet metal around it. However, there is already a minor leak under one side of the sheet metal. Look at the picture. I'm looking for some suggestions on how to fix it properly.
Kontoristen7: My guess is that they previously removed all the wood in contact with the base plate due to rising moisture. Is the slab in gravel/sand/clay, or is there any insulation or other capillary-breaking construction underneath?
Pularen1: We are replacing a worn-out wall and have built a new wall with lightweight concrete blocks. The roof trusses rest on a reinforced concrete beam high up in the wall. There are sill plates where the trusses rest on the wall. But now the roof trusses are being embedded in the wall without anything between the truss and the concrete block/mortar. Is there anyone knowledgeable on this forum who can
tensiden: Here is an old thread with a significantly leaning chimney stack. https://www.byggahus.se/forum/threads/lutande-roekstock-aer-detta-stoed.312531/