Hello.
I am going to insulate internally with lightweight concrete panels that are attached to a plastered brick wall.
These "systems" from Ytong/Xella and Bauroc seem enormously complicated and expensive. Can't one just use Finja's or Weber's thin joint mortar?
/H
I am going to insulate internally with lightweight concrete panels that are attached to a plastered brick wall.
These "systems" from Ytong/Xella and Bauroc seem enormously complicated and expensive. Can't one just use Finja's or Weber's thin joint mortar?
/H
No one with experience?H Händige_Helge said:
Yes, it should work but you probably need to put in some kramlor as reinforcement..H Händige_Helge said:
Also important that the mortar is low alkaline intended for lättbetong..
Which aerated concrete slabs should you use then?
It seems to be leaning towards Ytong, 100 mm thickness. They will be glued to the concrete floor and plastered wall.N neo11 said:
Now I have looked at Webers and Finjas thin joint mortar… Is there any reason at all to buy a glue that is twice as expensive and instead called blockfix? I don't understand the difference between glue from H+H/Ytong and regular thin joint mortar? The price difference ends up being quite a few thousand kronor🤔
What could happen? I placed 90mm leca on the inside in the basement below ground, about 15 years ago and nothing special has happened as far as I can tell, except it's a bit less cold and the wall is drier. Leca and mortar don't rot, reasonably capillary-breaking, slightly insulating. Should work similarly with lättbetong?anders07 said:
Insulating on the inside will move the heat exchange further inside and risk condensation in the wall, especially in any air pockets.G OMathson said:
It's a small risk, but it exists, so you might want to read up a bit and consider the possibility of insulating/draining externally instead.
Sure, I completely understand the condensation point, etc., and would never insulate the wooden structure on the inside, but it feels quite risk-free to "thicken" a cement-based construction with more cement-based material.
The outside, yes it is good but in some cases nearly impossible.
Yes, it is needed. Brick house with plastered interior walls, concrete floor (later cast).
The house was previously additionally insulated with wooden studs, vapor barrier, and plasterboard. It lasted about 20 years, but became musty...
Now the idea is additional insulation with non-organic, vapor-open material. So I think the reasonable plan is to place lightweight concrete panels against the interior wall, then plaster.
Do you think thin-bed mortar like weber or finja will do the job, in combination with either Ytong or H+H Multiplattan?
Here you need to think a bit and consider that it can get quite humid behind the aerated concrete panels, so whatever you use to attach them must withstand moisture and moisture movement.H Händige_Helge said:
The problem can be that leca releases the mortar if it gets too moist.
Maybe secure the panels with plastic plugs, intended for drainage boards?
You can attach plaster mesh at the same time to the plugs...
I was thinking thin-layer mortar (cement-based), reinforced with fastenings every m2.
Now I have looked at Webers and Finjas thin-bed mortar… Is there any reason at all to buy a glue that is twice as expensive and instead called blockfix? I don't understand the difference between glue from H+H/Ytong and regular thin-bed mortar? It results in a significant price difference of thousands 🤔
Currently in the process of removing a small leca wall that I placed against a rather damp nearly 100-year-old basement wall about 25 years ago, set with tile adhesive. It's stuck harder than I wish...