The first joint in the brick above a couple of windows on the house has started to give way due to rusted reinforcement bars. Previous owners of the house have "fixed" this above a couple of windows by simply removing the outer reinforcement bar and re-pointing the brick. It lasted just under ten years, so now it needs to be done properly.
There are various solutions with angle irons or pre-made L-angles that support the first course above the window. However, I'm a bit curious about pre-made brick lintels, or rather how to manufacture them yourself.
I was considering whether it's worth knocking down the first course, drilling longitudinal holes, threading through stainless steel reinforcement bars, casting it in place, and then re-installing the beam above the window. Has anyone done something similar themselves?
There are various solutions with angle irons or pre-made L-angles that support the first course above the window. However, I'm a bit curious about pre-made brick lintels, or rather how to manufacture them yourself.
I was considering whether it's worth knocking down the first course, drilling longitudinal holes, threading through stainless steel reinforcement bars, casting it in place, and then re-installing the beam above the window. Has anyone done something similar themselves?
I am sure there was an article about this exact topic in the magazine Gör-Det-Själv. If I recall correctly, the method was just as you described at the end. I'll do a quick search and send you the article if I find it.
Or you made it two layers thick and had reinforcement in between.
Or you made it two layers thick and had reinforcement in between.
Last edited:
If you find anything, feel free to shout. You can always dig up the newspapers at the library. What I'm a bit concerned about is drilling a longitudinal hole through ~250mm hollow bricks. Feels like it might easily turn into brick salad when you start getting into the hollow sections with the drill. However, I note that I could easily get a 26mm core drill with diamond crowns for my core drill and run it with water cooling. Usually goes like a breeze in brick.
Looked a bit on GDS, and I'm surprised I didn't find anything. I distinctly remember seeing the article there.
Perhaps they don't have all the articles that are in the newspapers online. But I thought they did.
I then became quite convinced that they made the beam in two shifts with reinforcement between the shifts. The reinforcement, I recall, was similar to the kind used in glass block walls, like a ladder with two longitudinal reinforcing bars with crossbars at regular intervals. Preferably stainless steel as you noted
Perhaps they don't have all the articles that are in the newspapers online. But I thought they did.
I then became quite convinced that they made the beam in two shifts with reinforcement between the shifts. The reinforcement, I recall, was similar to the kind used in glass block walls, like a ladder with two longitudinal reinforcing bars with crossbars at regular intervals. Preferably stainless steel as you noted
I manufactured brick beams when we made a masonry range hood by cutting several grooves into regular solid bricks with an angle grinder and diamond blade, then breaking off the pieces in the middle to create an empty U shape.
We then placed the bricks in a row, inserted two reinforcing bars on spacers so they were at the right distance from the edges, sealed the ends, and filled with concrete.
We placed the bricks tightly against each other, so there was no mortar joint, but since the hood was going to be plastered, it didn't matter. If you want a beam with a joint, it might be possible to seal between the bricks.
The beam was then installed with the concrete facing downward; it's best if the reinforcement is at the bottom of the beam.
Not sure if this method suits you? It's important to note that it must be bricks suitable for outdoor use.
We then placed the bricks in a row, inserted two reinforcing bars on spacers so they were at the right distance from the edges, sealed the ends, and filled with concrete.
We placed the bricks tightly against each other, so there was no mortar joint, but since the hood was going to be plastered, it didn't matter. If you want a beam with a joint, it might be possible to seal between the bricks.
The beam was then installed with the concrete facing downward; it's best if the reinforcement is at the bottom of the beam.
Not sure if this method suits you? It's important to note that it must be bricks suitable for outdoor use.
Here you can find a lot of useful information about your specific damages. Go to the section "projekteringshandlingar" and download the PDF "murverksskador"
http://www.murma.se/dokument.html
And here you can see a test of Murma's repair beam:
http://www.hagilab.se/web/Ritning/Test Nr1 tegelbalk med bilder.pdf
http://www.murma.se/dokument.html
And here you can see a test of Murma's repair beam:
http://www.hagilab.se/web/Ritning/Test Nr1 tegelbalk med bilder.pdf
Last edited:
Yes, I have read quite a bit of Murma's material before and have been in contact with them regarding cement-based paints. They have always been very accommodating. Their wall beam system is probably very good, but I end up with a visible sheet at the top of the window, which complicates things with existing sheet metal work. Additionally, it feels almost like overkill on narrower windows, but frankly, it probably works excellently with reinforcement bars in the first course as long as they don't rust. I have many windows in the house that still look good.
If I decide to manufacture my own beams, it will likely be with the existing bricks. It really doesn't matter much since the bricks will be plastered and painted with cement paint again.
If I decide to manufacture my own beams, it will likely be with the existing bricks. It really doesn't matter much since the bricks will be plastered and painted with cement paint again.
Dare one revive such an old thread, I wonder.....
I have the same problem myself, loose stones above a couple of windows.
I'm keen on trying the solution with a custom-made brick lintel using my existing stones.
My problem is finding stainless steel reinforcing bars, plain smooth rods are no problem. Can they be notched to make the mortar grip well?
I've also read people use double 6mm rods. Sounds flimsy, there's no rigidity in such. Then I understand everything "locks" when you cast and you join with mortar.
What do you think about an L-profile in stainless steel? Notching the stones and casting one in. It should be able to take some load.
In any case. Anyone have something to add here? I could really use some advice and tips.
And yes, I have read about murmas wall beams. But I want it to look the same in all windows and I will only repair what's bad right now.
I have the same problem myself, loose stones above a couple of windows.
I'm keen on trying the solution with a custom-made brick lintel using my existing stones.
My problem is finding stainless steel reinforcing bars, plain smooth rods are no problem. Can they be notched to make the mortar grip well?
I've also read people use double 6mm rods. Sounds flimsy, there's no rigidity in such. Then I understand everything "locks" when you cast and you join with mortar.
What do you think about an L-profile in stainless steel? Notching the stones and casting one in. It should be able to take some load.
In any case. Anyone have something to add here? I could really use some advice and tips.
And yes, I have read about murmas wall beams. But I want it to look the same in all windows and I will only repair what's bad right now.
