The prices of materials have definitely gone up.
I'm working on a simple outhouse we have on the property. About 7.5m2. I want walls to attach benches and shelves, as I'm going to furnish it as my carpentry workshop, it's just as well to insulate it in the simplest way from the inside (currently just studs and paneling) and have good walls to screw shelves, benches, and tool boards into. The floor is also quite miserable. It would be nice to have some solid wood to lay on top of the floor that's there today.
I'd prefer wood, as it won't be heated except for the few hours I'm out there in winter, and I therefore think things like drywall wouldn't fare well being cold most of the time. Likewise, wood is easier to screw things into.
Therefore, I considered using tongue and groove boards on the walls, since the house is old and crooked it's also easier than sheets... but even if it's cheap it gets expensive if you both need to put in flooring and tongue and groove boards on all the walls.
If drywall works and it’s significantly cheaper, I could consider that too, but since it's not great for screwing shelves into, I would have to have something behind it anyway, I have some leftover OSB, chipboard, etc. I could use. Likewise, standing drywall sheets I'd like to get rid of. But as I mentioned, it might be more work and maybe won't work in an unheated house?
Any tips on the cheapest paneling and flooring to put in a simple shed?
Is Byggmax the cheapest?
I'm working on a simple outhouse we have on the property. About 7.5m2. I want walls to attach benches and shelves, as I'm going to furnish it as my carpentry workshop, it's just as well to insulate it in the simplest way from the inside (currently just studs and paneling) and have good walls to screw shelves, benches, and tool boards into. The floor is also quite miserable. It would be nice to have some solid wood to lay on top of the floor that's there today.
I'd prefer wood, as it won't be heated except for the few hours I'm out there in winter, and I therefore think things like drywall wouldn't fare well being cold most of the time. Likewise, wood is easier to screw things into.
Therefore, I considered using tongue and groove boards on the walls, since the house is old and crooked it's also easier than sheets... but even if it's cheap it gets expensive if you both need to put in flooring and tongue and groove boards on all the walls.
If drywall works and it’s significantly cheaper, I could consider that too, but since it's not great for screwing shelves into, I would have to have something behind it anyway, I have some leftover OSB, chipboard, etc. I could use. Likewise, standing drywall sheets I'd like to get rid of. But as I mentioned, it might be more work and maybe won't work in an unheated house?
Any tips on the cheapest paneling and flooring to put in a simple shed?
Is Byggmax the cheapest?
To find the cheapest building materials, it's advisable to visit the websites of building supply stores which typically have prices listed.
If you know exactly what you need and the quantities are increasing, it might be a good idea to call and then email a salesperson at the professional building trade - Beijer, K-Bygg, etc.
Osb can work on walls, cheap and ugly. Tongue-and-groove boards on the floor feel flimsy and like a dirt trap, see if you can find smooth tongue-and-groove 28x120 instead?
If you know exactly what you need and the quantities are increasing, it might be a good idea to call and then email a salesperson at the professional building trade - Beijer, K-Bygg, etc.
Osb can work on walls, cheap and ugly. Tongue-and-groove boards on the floor feel flimsy and like a dirt trap, see if you can find smooth tongue-and-groove 28x120 instead?
I've been searching around a bit, but it's hard to know if I've found the most affordable product... Could be someone who has already researched it and knows there's a super cheap panel at a certain building store...Den ofrivillige klåparen said:
It's just a tiny outhouse, so rather that any "scrap material" will do.Den ofrivillige klåparen said:
OSB / Chipboard works badly as when it's crooked and small, it's difficult to make it tight between boards and in corners.Den ofrivillige klåparen said:
It doesn't need to be nice like "inside," but I also don't want it to look like crap.
I started with OSB I had left over in part of the same shed a few years ago (it's originally two parts), then covered everything with beadboard (which I found cheaper at the time, but thinner than raw spruce). Sauna paneling might work as well. If it's too thin, you can't screw shelves into it, but if you put some scrap OSB / chipboard underneath, it might work, then they can be pretty ugly boards, since they're covered.
Raw spruce is usually "rough" on one side and planed on the other... Ideally, I'd like to level the floor a bit, but if I lay raw spruce directly, there's a thick but damaged floor underneath.Den ofrivillige klåparen said:
Can hardware stores sell ugly or damaged lumber, in a knitting shed it doesn't need to be perfect...
Where do those packages go when the tongue and groove is damaged or the plastic is torn and the lumber is dirty?
It won't be lumber for many thousands anyhow, but when you need it mostly for function, it feels unnecessary to buy really nice lumber.
Where do those packages go when the tongue and groove is damaged or the plastic is torn and the lumber is dirty?
It won't be lumber for many thousands anyhow, but when you need it mostly for function, it feels unnecessary to buy really nice lumber.
I understand. Råspont will be great then, I think.
If it's not time-critical but money-critical, maybe you can check if something used comes up?
Otherwise, I think råspont costs about the same almost regardless of where you buy it.
If it's not time-critical but money-critical, maybe you can check if something used comes up?
Otherwise, I think råspont costs about the same almost regardless of where you buy it.
It's mostly that it would work excellently with second sorting, but it doesn't seem to be available.
It's annoying that what cost 500 a couple of years ago now costs 1500.
It's annoying that what cost 500 a couple of years ago now costs 1500.
Yes, it is so damn sad that everything has become ungodly much more expensive. 
As a forest owner, I am however happy that it is finally possible to get reasonable payment for the raw material and think that the approximately 120-150kr/sqm that tongue and groove boards cost in the market is completely reasonable.
Sure, you can use alternative materials like OSB, but Swedish wood has its advantages and in TS's case, tongue and groove boards are likely the most reasonable both economically and workwise.
Sure, you can use alternative materials like OSB, but Swedish wood has its advantages and in TS's case, tongue and groove boards are likely the most reasonable both economically and workwise.
Maybe I calculated wrong in my initial estimation, or did I find an unusually expensive tongue and groove board the first time I looked...F fribygg said:
https://www.hornbach.se/p/osb-skiva-3-eco-11x897x2500mm/5937285/
https://www.hornbach.se/p/raspont-rillad-g4-3-17x95x4800mm/5116821/
What is the price per sqm for tongue and groove boards? It should be that it is almost 10cm wide so it takes just over 10m for 1sqm? Then it's almost the same price as OSB...
For just over 100kr/sqm, it feels completely okay.
The floor, however, tongue and groove boards are a bit flimsy to lay, even if you lay on top? Or could it work as a simple floor? To make it straight, I may need to lay underneath, but if I lay tightly or use boards where it needs to be filled, it should be able to work?
Or is it being too frugal? A real pine floor would be preferable, I know that byggmax and similar places have sold such that were in the storage rack and had a lot of knots, some damage, etc. for almost no money at some point when I've been to the building market... Is such burned up or is it worth asking if they have for a cheaper price?
The råspånt you link to seems cheap as it doesn't even cost 110 SEK/sqm.J JohanLun said:
Go up to 20mm thickness, it feels much sturdier regardless if you have it on an exterior roof or as planned.
Sure, you can buy and use a one-inch pine floor of other sorts for walls and floors in your shed, but it will likely be twice as expensive and you were interested in a low price, right?
For walls, raw boards are enough.F fribygg said:
My question was if raw boards work on floors...?
It should work, many place 20mm råspont to access the attic and store things there, so why wouldn't it work in your shed?J JohanLun said:
Having the same material in the same thickness for both walls and floor seems advantageous as it can reduce wood waste and result in fewer or no leftover pieces to store when you’re finished.
If you have or can borrow a nail gun, it's significantly faster and easier than hand nailing.
I have a nail gun that has sufficed for, for example, pärlspont, but I'm unsure if it'll be enough for råspont, but I almost think it will if I find longer nails. I could combine, using a couple of sturdy regular nails and the rest with the nail gun.F fribygg said:
I'm tearing out a poorly done floor; the previous owner insulated half of it, but it was done so poorly that it's easier to start over.
The shed is probably 100 years old, patched and repaired, but it's located along the street where building is restricted, so I have to make do.
Then I think you have a dyckertpicka.J JohanLun said:
In a nail gun, you can normally have 50-90mm long nails, and three-inch nails are certainly sufficient for one-inch lumber, I have never seen roof decking thicker than 23mm.