Building Materials and Construction Technology
PA: Plastic is definitely not as hard. I haven't really stood statically for long periods (like you do in front of a stove or while doing the dishes) on a wooden floor. You can look at it in different ways. If you drop something, tiles are definitely harder than wood (impulse), but when you're standing, it involves a different kind of hardness. A static hardness. I'll have to test it sometime. From
Bob_the_builder: 900-width is usually called Ergo (product name from Gyproc) or something similar. They are simply more ERGOnomic to work with. The downside is that you have to space the studs closer (approx. 450).
David: Thanks for the answers. We bought thin firebricks to place in a layer closest to the fire anyway. Cost a lot! >:( Above the chimney, we will run frost-free. Otherwise, we will go straight with the old brick. The chimney master liked that we would reuse the brick for the chimney. ;) Best regards, David
BAS: The porous surface can be saturated with special wax for stone. I have used it on the stone we have above the kitchen counter and splashes from the frying pan are easy to wipe off with a dishcloth. I don't remember what the wax is called, but I bought it at K-rauta.
rich710: My brother-in-law has a masonry company and usually plasters houses; he charges around 1000:- per square meter including materials, if I remember correctly.
MathiasS: BKR prescribes bending stiffness at least equivalent to 22mm chipboard on cc30, and the chipboard should be glued and screwed. I suggest that a layer of floor gypsum be placed on top of the chipboard (which is properly screwed into the beams) and that the floor gypsum be fully glued to the chipboard. You can skip the screws if you fully glue it, it will hold like a rock anyway.
Janne_L: I recently bought a one-story house with a finished basement from 1969. It turns out they have had problems with elevated moisture levels in the basement, but this has been addressed externally with a Platon mat, etc., by the previous owner. However, nothing has been done internally. In the recreation room, there was wall-to-wall carpeting with masonite over asfaboard underneath. In addition, the
torparen: I hope the screws were stainless ??? If they are "only" galvanized, they will start to rust shortly.
joco2: Hello! I am going to build a wall in an existing room where we have chipboard flooring and then laminate flooring. Do I need to rout away the laminate flooring and attach the studs to the chipboard, or can I attach the stud directly to the laminate floor? It won't be a floating floor anymore then :-) The room is 11 square meters in size. /Jonathan
rich710: We received a quote for studs and drywall for two bedrooms + bathroom from Älvsbyhus, this would cost around 20 thousand, which I'm not quite sure how it's profitable, the advantage was that they lifted all the material with a crane before the roof was in place, which is good since it wouldn't be fun to haul a lot of drywall up through the new stairs.
Bob_the_builder: [citat] I have bought 5-6 booklets in this series. To be honest, it's probably fair to say that they are not on an insanely high level.
Jonte: [citat] Hello Fru Lind, Hmmm...interesting opinions. Thanks! I know too little to envision it, but I guess I'll have to go and look at some combinations so maybe I'll get wiser. /J
AndersG: Two... I had wished it was one, but now almost the entire panel is there... 28mm
Edvin: [citat] I recognize those dimensions 8) But I thought the top rail in 145x45 would be enough, maybe that needs to be revised. I didn't plan to dig 3-4 m deep holes for the plinths of the patio ??? That's the depth where we have rock, and above it's mostly clay. However, I think I'll drive 3-4 solid reinforcing bars down to the rock and cast these into each plinth, "homemade" piling.
Erlando: Well, does anyone have significant issues with regulation inertia for embedded loops? I thought it would generally result in unnecessarily high indoor temperatures. Regarding price differences, I've only checked Thermotech so far, where the list prices for embedded loops are about 120-170 SEK/m2, and floating EPS with Al-reflectors costs a whopping 350 SEK/m2... I hope that an advanced forward
Eld: There are lots of different kinds of plaster and also different opinions on what is good or bad in various situations. However, plastering on brick is not particularly complicated. One should paint with lime paint or possibly silicate paint. Lime paint has the advantage, and disadvantage, that it eventually erodes away and then you have to slap on a new coat. The fact that it erodes means that
MK: THEN this is done. Wirsbo simply states that the warranty does not apply if there is no 16mm chipboard underneath. Note that we have a 20mm pipe system and not 12mm, different rules apply. /Marcus
Hoffsan: Okay thanks for all the answers :) I checked if it was oiled or lacquered and it was oiled :D No, Kährs Linnea is not a floor we want partly because it is only 7 mm and partly because we think the ship floors are nicer and with their 15 mm so you can sand it a couple of times if needed in the future.
Snobben: A good alternative to Ytong if you want aerated concrete is H+H Celcon. If you are building in Skåne, then contact Husconcept in Skåne AB, 040 - 631 33 50, which is a builder that, among other things, works with H+H Celcon and can offer turnkey contracts and not just general contracting.
frasse: Platon+isolering works perfectly fine, the downside compared to Isodrän/Pordrän is that you have 2 work steps instead of "all in one." Regarding the dimensions, the 19 blocks are sufficient, but you'll get better insulation with 25. You can have a maximum of 5 m wall without a counterfort/wall support. You can either build a side support at the same time as building the wall, or alternatively
Eld: I am planning to build a garden shed 2*4m two meters from the house. I am thinking of casting a concrete slab 10cm thick.
AndersG: Just found an excellent document about paneling at: http://www.puuinfo.fi/ Unfortunately, the images are only in Swedish, but they specify 28mm as the minimum thickness for the panel. There was a lot of good stuff available in Swedish for download (pdf) including nailing guides ;) Click on "kuluttajat" and then "tee se itse"
ladde: So: The difference in time for a "standard" wall between leca/gypsum is very large. Masonry takes time. After completing the masonry, you probably want a smooth surface on the wall, and then we're talking gypsum again... You probably have both electricity, phone, TV, etc., that you want to hide the cables for in the wall, and the time to rout that into the leca becomes very expensive. The price
KarlXII: The best and probably cheapest and simplest way is to frame (nail and glue) against the leca and then screw the plasterboard into the frames. The downside is that it takes up a bit of space, but on the other hand, it allows for some electrical installation if you want a socket or switch on that wall.
Optimist: I'm also looking at flooring We don't have kids yet and I don't know, I don't like tiles directly. We have an open living room to the kitchen so it's difficult because it's about 55 sqm and I would like to be in a good price range. Parquet is around 300 kronor and I feel like I want to come in lower than that... any suggestions for good cost-friendly vinyl flooring?
niax01: Hi, I have seen some of Magnus's work and I must say they are of the highest class. The downside is that he has a long delivery time as I know he is overwhelmed with work. You can find him at maproduktion.nu. Best regards, niax
AndersG: There are also special mold agents in the paint store. Used it on details in a boat that had been on land for a couple of years.
Craxen: yes they say they have done it, but in that case they must have done it with transparent plastic, because you can still see the sky :-/