Building Materials and Construction Technology
tiggre: used leveling compound at home here to even out... since it was a basement floor, I sneaked and didn't use fiber-reinforced, just the cheapest option (not optiroc but some other sneak brand) (concrete slabs move minimally anyway)... used optiroc fiber-reinforced on the upper floor when I worked on wooden floors (primer and reinforcement before) so I could tile the hallway and kitchen floor...
Bob_the_builder: A guy at work gave me one piece of advice for the construction: "Make sure to put netting under the panel! There's rattling in our walls! It was mice that were rustling around, that is...
BoByggarn: Beijer also has its catalog online. http://www.beijerbygg.se/katalog2003/
Cocacola74: Hello, I have a large house, approximately 17 meters in building area and two floors, but unfortunately, the house is poorly maintained and the facade is quite bad, therefore large parts need to be completely replaced (an estimated 10% of the facade will fall off when tapping). The facade is plaster and is approximately 30-40mm thick, with timber underneath. What does it cost to have such a
TN: "But "4. 1x13 mm Gypsum board with staggered seams"??" :-[ not always good with copy & paste, forget all the other stuff.... should only be 1x13mm gypsum board......
PA: I've seen it and similar at trade shows. I have a neighbor who built with that type of foundation and he's satisfied. I can mention that he is a carpenter by profession. I was offered to have my foundation done in this way but declined after hearing various horror stories where the elements had come apart and the concrete had leaked onto the ground, as well as after speaking with a salesperson at
KarlXII: Oops, I just noticed that you didn't want to cast :) My solution described above assumes that you cast the joist hangers into the pillars. As Bob describes, there are pre-cast pillars available for purchase - but it's hell to dig for them and adjust them to the correct height. And I wouldn't just place a part of the house on something like leca blocks on the ground....:-/
Eld: The quality of concrete varies enormously, so it is hardly possible to say anything generally. During the war, there was a shortage (rationing?) of cement, so often they skimped on the cement with alarming concrete quality as a result. However, it cannot be said that this was generally the case. Furthermore, mixing was often/(always?) done manually, resulting in varying quality. I have a house
marge: We have talked with both Siljan and Dala Floda Golv, and according to both manufacturers, you should screw down each plank if you have underfloor heating - absolutely do not glue! By screwing, each board moves individually, rather than entire sections of the floor moving, which could create centimeter-wide gaps. We have laid Siljan's pine flooring 25x158 mm, treated with lye, oil, and wax. We
Lilla_vargen: In the knot holes I've heard that one should paint on Shellac before regular painting/varnishing, so that the knot holes don't release resin that turns into yellow stains. As I understand it, this applies to all types of wood, even door frames made of pine.
MathiasS: I actually don't think you can build new constructions with this material anymore. Regarding landfill (there's some old thread about this), there are three stations in Stockholm (Värmdö, Gladö + one more) where you can drop off asbestos cement. It costs about 800SEK per ton there. Additionally, there is a recycling center in Fittja where you can drop off asbestos cement for free (this seems to
peterpop: We have slate at the restaurant, and last winter the Steam Cleaning Car was there and cleaned plus polished the floor so that dirt would have a hard time penetrating the tiles. Try checking their website. www.angtvattbilen.se Peter
Fasting65: After some time searching, I found www.diedenporten.se. Let's see what price range they are in.
Fasting65: The plasterboard is attached to metal studs, usually purchased from Lindab (www.lindab.se). The board should NOT be placed directly against the floor but one or a couple of centimeters above the floor...
JoGi: ...another tip is apparently to grind off the head of the nail with the angle grinder and then pry up the board. Well, I haven't reached that stage yet... Right now it's groundwork (drainage), pipe replacement (water and sewage), and general demolition... excavator, shovel, crowbar, rock drill, dynamite, big-freaking-Hilti, reciprocating saw you name it... all the crap has to go! / JoGi
andas: Looking at the technical description, you can see that the thermal conductivity is 0.004, which is 10 times better than normal insulation materials such as mineral wool. This is likely some kind of special material that was once developed for special purposes, perhaps space/submarine/or similar confined spaces. I think it's hard to just make up a thermal conductivity, as it's easy to verify at a
andas: Hello! You must have long finished with the vapor barrier ;-) but for others who might be wondering, I just want to say that it IS important that the vapor barrier is tight. Especially in sensitive areas for condensation, such as thermal bridges and other places where the risk of condensation problems is higher (cold construction, a lot of steam in the air, sensitive materials, etc.). The reason
KarlXII: Ahem...this was urgent in January...you can drop it now ;D
Fredrik_Jansson: Hello This doesn't concern a new house but rather an old one that my partner and I are interested in. It will be expanded, and it is currently bricked. In my eyes, there's nothing uglier than people adding on to a brick house with wood paneling, so I/we are considering plastering the house and painting it in a nice color. There might also be a problem finding the same color/type of brick today as
Fredrik_G: Hello We are in the process of remodeling and would need some Heby roof tiles. I saw that you had some. Would you consider selling a few to me? I have single-row ones and can arrange transport without any problems. Thanks for any help Best regards Fredrik Grönlund 0708-465260
Eld: It's not an entirely unreasonable price compared to the quotes I've received for renovating my house. Just a bit on the high side.
Snowblade: Maybe then go there myself. If possible. Maybe it's possible to buy from the factory?
Lotta och Roger: Hello! Got a quote on brick, but can't remember... it's somewhere among all the papers :-/ Anyway, we're going to have brick, because I want to avoid painting during an entire vacation... a bit exaggerated maybe ::) It would have been easier for my husband who is a carpenter with a wooden facade, but it's different how you want it.