Building Materials and Construction Technology
Torparkungen: Hello! I listen and observe... I will have 45x95 in my walls myself. All on the ground floor, to get as solid a feel as possible without overdoing it. By the way, I've also heard that 45x95 studs at c-c 600 should be suitable for load-bearing interior walls in a 2-story house. I will also nail raw cladding inside the plasterboard on certain walls. I can hardly wait!
Benno: I suggested it to Pricerunner a couple of years ago, but they didn't seem interested. Probably too much work... It should be able to lower the price on certain standard goods, but much cannot be compared. Take, for example, timber at Byggmax, which can result in more waste and requires greater efforts in the form of knot varnishing and filling (speaking from experience). Different brands and
Fasting65: Lisa - you have received a message... We have scaffolding lying around...
BAS: It's probably quite irrelevant whether you have 95 or 120 in the walls. The major heat leak is called the garage door. I have installed one that is "heavily insulated" only 40 mm. It occupies 9.5 m[sup]2[/sup] and also leaks a little at the edges and at the bottom (overhead door) even though I have adjusted it according to all the rules. As for the roof, insulate more than in the walls.
tiggre: install self-adhesive foil ceiling panels in all rooms (currently there are old tretex-like tiles)... it's convenient to work with if you have a nail gun and air compressor... 120x60 chipboard panels that are foil-covered, various brands are available, but I think they are all more or less the same (except if it's supposed to be "limed oak" or such patterns)...
dadid: [citat] Thanks for a great post. I have chosen 145 studs in the walls for structural integrity, not insulation thickness. This is because I don't have more than the outer gypsum to stabilize the construction. But you're probably right; I'll calculate dropping down a size. I reduced the interior walls to 70 yesterday :-) The reason for the previous thickness was that I wanted to hide some posts
Rena: Hello! I am in the process of extending a cabin a few square meters to accommodate a shower cabin. It's an old "hall" that has paved bricks as the floor. This floor needs to be slightly extended, and my question is whether I should break away the entire brick floor and frame a new floor or if I can simply build a framework from the brick floor. The problem as I see it is not getting the floors
roblar: How is the quality of Byggmax insulation? Is the insulating ability as good as the more well-known brands, such as Paroc and Isover?
David: So, we are quite close to the end of our custom-built house. (Except for the garage, which I am still avoiding thinking about). What we have left is to paint doors and put up baseboards and moldings. After a quick look at Bygg-Ole, we were shocked. 50 bucks per meter for oak baseboards! After some consideration, I'm wondering if it wouldn't work to put up simple planed oak strips as baseboards? I
NikS: Another question for you BuilderBob, why gypsum plaster? We also live in a stone house with plastered interior walls, but with regular lime cement on the walls. All our interior walls are lecawalls. The outer walls are also built with leca, a load-bearing interior wall with 15cm blocks, then 12cm polystyrene and a façade with 9cm leca. We are very satisfied with the result, just need to get it
Sweli: We have used Masterfacade panels to clad the dormers. The idea is to be able to plaster directly on them. In the spring, we will test on pieces we have left to see what is easiest to do and what lasts. In the pictures on the website, you can see what they look like.
Linska: There is a home feature in the November issue-03 of Hus&Hem about this exact house!! Hurry, hurry to the store, and you'll probably manage to purchase a copy! Best regards/ Malin
NikS: I just ordered an air exhaust hood for my roof, Nortegel, it costs about 1600 including VAT. My tinsmith costs 300+VAT/hour, which gives him just over 4 hours to manufacture and install a hood including materials. I don't think it will be cheaper if the "plåtis" does it, I will install the finished hood myself. The tinsmith himself has said that it takes about 2 hours to fix a drain ventilation
Christer: Anyone with experience or knowledge about Poroton stone? A very common building material in countries like Germany, but almost unknown in Sweden. There is information available online, such as on www.poroton.org But my school-level German isn't quite enough. And even using Google Translate leaves too many gaps. U-value? Comparison with Leca and lightweight concrete? :)
Lycke: To Jureit: I will have them on a minimal surface over the sink in our summer house that will soon be built. It's not about many square meters! I thought the surrounding tiles would be similar (square and cream-colored) with some frog tiles here and there. Not like a border and definitely not everywhere. But now that I like the lizards more, a problem arises: those tiles are rectangular and it
frasse: Took a closer look at a variant that we will probably choose, it actually seems to be screen-printed. Can only be seen when looking very closely, and that probably doesn't happen very often. Does it really matter?
joa_bj: This topic has been moved to [link=http://www.byggahus.se/cgi-bin/yabb/YaBB.pl?board=VVS;action=display;num=1069076267;start=0]Heating, water, ventilation[/link] by Marlene Eskilsson.
frasse: 45 insulation in a 70 wall is a fairly common solution, it provides some space for electrical and water installations without complicating things. Karlsson can also deliver with insulation, just let them know. Don't forget to check how the interjoists are insulated, this is just as important as good insulation in interior walls regarding sound. Many suppliers don't include insulation at all in
freedoman: Hi We have decided to build a house with lightweight concrete. Currently out searching for suppliers selling prefabricated wall elements. We have been in contact with Finjabetong (concrete + foam), but there are certainly more suppliers out there. If anyone knows of more suppliers and roughly what price they charge per sqm, please feel free to post a comment here! All comments are invaluable to
Immobil: Contact a metalworker and he will bend a cap flashing exactly as you want it.
BAS: Hello. Pass by a paint shop. Make sure to talk to someone who has worked there for a long time (so don't go in on the weekend when regular staff might be off). Are you building new? In that case, it's easy. If it's a second-hand house, bring a piece of the facade paint as a sample.
Henke: >In my case, Beijer bygg turned out to be the cheapest. Oh, really. If you go by the list price, they are usually the most expensive. Apparently, it's worth checking the prices carefully.
IngvarW: Hello, a regular piece of metal sheet that is "bent" to be window sill or similar costs about 40 SEK/meter, I believe. We have sheet metal, chimney, various ridge tiles, and 40 windows with sheet metal around them, i.e., the windows are completely surrounded with sheet metal since we don’t have any casings. That job costs about 85000. Best regards, iw
JoGi: [citat] ...and should be available at all reputable paint dealers (if they have Nordsjö, that is). JoGi
Mangelito: I have now sanded and treated one of three rooms. The lye cost 100kr/L. It took 4 liters for 20sqm. The other rooms are larger, and I wonder what is reasonable to pay for lye. Last time, I bought it in connection with renting a sander, so it probably wasn’t at the cheapest place. You have to save in all areas...if possible...and not affect the result...