Building Materials and Construction Technology
cottonfield00: Our house has an extension. Between the old house foundation and the extension's concrete slab, afsaboard has been installed. Now it seems that ground radon is seeping in through this crack. I was thinking of "removing" the board to "expose the seam and then seal it with silicone. Does that seem sensible? Will silicone (Bostik Silicon Universal) work?
Fasting65: Check out my project website under the diary, June. There are pictures of an excellent tool - the concrete grinder. It is actually made to sand down casting seams, but it works ridiculously well for tearing down old plaster from the walls. Scraping with a paint scraper was really hard work. The hammer drill did more harm than good. This is what the machine looks like:
Per-Erik: I checked with Marmoroc what their price was.. 1 sqm Marmoroc Baltic 147:- 3.8 lpm Mounting profiles 76:- Then add Colored stone + 15kr /sqm Textured surface + 20kr /sqm Outer corner 170kr lpm 8) how does this compare to, for example, wood facade and plaster and other stone? ???
Emelie: You and me Niklas, You and me... hehe Equally novice and have a goofy label both of us ;D
hama170: I think there are already some such lists on this forum. It depends on what standard you want. The foundation can cost very differently depending on what conditions you have. We had to make an EXPENSIVE foundation because there will mostly be water under the house.
Mangelito: Here it goes fast... 13mm gypsum installed long ago. Tretex long gone. Thanks for all the answers/tips
pinch: Hi, planning to build a ytong house and wondering if anyone knows how sensitive ytong is to rain and moisture? You don't want to build in the rain, so the question is if you can store the ytong under a tarpaulin and if so, for how long (if there is prolonged rain) or does it need to be stored indoors? The same thing when you've built it.....if it starts raining while you're building......is it
zville: Thank you for the quick response! Replacing the entire ventilation extraction duct doesn't seem relevant. It's in good condition and just needs to be moved a decimeter. \\zville
Fru_Lind: Emelie, you are not mistaken. The price per square meter is not a comparable metric because it includes too many factors. It mainly depends on how much work you do yourself. It's only when you buy a turnkey that the price per square meter becomes interesting. Personally, I think house suppliers like to refer to it to hide where the actual costs lie. With stone houses, this difference is even more
markis: Okay, so what is the advantage of gluing the floors? Is it another type of material that one might be looking for? Does it hold better? Does it withstand water better ("no" seams?)
Emelie: What does it cost to build a brick house?? Price details with and without labor please. :)
Jonte: [citat] In Acrobat, there is a button with a T on it (varies depending on which version you have) that you click on. Then you just highlight the text you want to copy... :) Go hard, it's Friday ;D
Alfons_Helikopter: Wobbly in which direction? Up/down or side/side? Side/side can be fixed with cleats across, right? Up/down by attaching a solid plank to the side of the existing one and screwing it in place securely? That's probably how I would have done it. But now it's not very likely that I'll ever set foot in an attic from 1915 :( (unless it's about carrying a friend's belongings up 8 flights to a locked
AndersG: A regular lid, adjustable. The inside of the wall is plastered like the outside.
Lotta och Roger: Thank you for the answer. I have checked them out, and they are way too expensive. No, the husband gets his way, but the gate won't be brown, we have decided on white. Another "detail" chosen and ordered :)
Roger_B: Built a small wall, 2 courses with Rustik blocks this summer, PL 400 worked excellently.
Lotta och Roger: Thanks for the response Found what I wanted on the links. Located in Glumslöv in Skåne ;D Take care regards "Oline"
Stefan: Hello everyone! Wow, it's been a while since I started this thread! I haven't had the chance to research more about Ytong from Poland or Estonia, but regarding external insulation, the downside is that the plaster (if you choose this surface finish) becomes much more fragile than if you plaster directly on the stone. If/when we build an extension, we will opt for some form of heat pump so that
BoByggarn: [citat] Ah, that explains it! If there's something I appreciate, it's when things match each other. I too will go the extra mile to make it look good!
Haagbard: [citat] I did it in the interior wall of the garage, used regular concrete not LECA pebbles! Built the wall up to the upper edge of the door opening plus one stone on each side 30 cm from the opening, formed and reinforced over the door opening to the same height as the stones on each side of the opening, i.e., ~20 cm, and poured concrete from above! It's easier than you might think to screw the
AndersD: V-phase laying and standing alternately looks nice, just make sure to turn the tongue and groove correctly, my paneling is from 1912 and in perfect condition. Naturally assumes Falu red paint.
TN: Screw the floor as I have seen examples of how gaps can form on floating floors when you place heavy bookshelves, etc. on them.
tiggre: otherwise, you can prime the floor 3 times, reinforce with "chicken wire," and then level directly with self-leveling compound... did it in a kitchen and hallway in a house built in 45... worked perfectly... you get a flat and perfect surface to lay tiles on... edit fiber-reinforced self-leveling compound that is...
AndersD: Hello I just had the same issue, I guess you have about 15-20 cm beams as joists. Since my floor on the upper level needed proper alignment, I attached 6" joists on either side of the beam, making the c/c measurement about 700. Then I nogged between each longitudinal joint between the floorboards (22 mm). It seems stable and good. Additionally, I will place spaced panels on top to install
JesperS: I would probably supplement the joists to get shorter intervals. Studs and noggings. Alternatively, lay a substantial plank floor, at least 50 mm thick.
JoGi: Of course, plaster if I get to choose! (all days - all year - all life). JoGi
lt: Our architect has suggested U-glass as walls on fairly large surfaces. He claims it is a cheap material often used for industrial buildings due to this reason. Anyone familiar with this material in terms of price, insulation properties, and perhaps any building in the Gothenburg area using this material that one can look at? Regards, LT :)
MathiasS: No, there is no module 9 door that doesn't fit into a 90cm wide opening. It's standard. However, I don't think it hurts to add an extra centimeter, especially in height, so you have a little room to play with. Actual frame dimensions vary slightly between manufacturers (at least that's the case for windows), but you can assume that none are wider than the module measurement allows for air space +