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Laminate on underfloor heating (öv)
Hi,
In our house (1 1/2 floors), we plan to have underfloor heating both upstairs and downstairs, and it was at least planned to have laminate flooring upstairs. However, our carpenter - very competent - has warned us a bit and says there's a risk it might become "unstable."
The underfloor heating upstairs consists of polystyrene blocks in which the piping is installed. Polystyrene itself is semi-soft, so I can understand that it might become a bit unstable.
I tried walking on a neighbor's floor with the same construction the other day and could tell if I stepped on a joint or not, but I couldn't say it was "unstable."
So, what are your opinions and experiences? Should one avoid laminate on underfloor heating upstairs, or should we jump on that train?
The reason we want laminate and not parquet is that we will have pine on the floor upstairs, and a pine parquet is too soft for the wear and tear we will subject it to.
/Marcus
In our house (1 1/2 floors), we plan to have underfloor heating both upstairs and downstairs, and it was at least planned to have laminate flooring upstairs. However, our carpenter - very competent - has warned us a bit and says there's a risk it might become "unstable."
The underfloor heating upstairs consists of polystyrene blocks in which the piping is installed. Polystyrene itself is semi-soft, so I can understand that it might become a bit unstable.
I tried walking on a neighbor's floor with the same construction the other day and could tell if I stepped on a joint or not, but I couldn't say it was "unstable."
So, what are your opinions and experiences? Should one avoid laminate on underfloor heating upstairs, or should we jump on that train?
The reason we want laminate and not parquet is that we will have pine on the floor upstairs, and a pine parquet is too soft for the wear and tear we will subject it to.
/Marcus
I plan to install underfloor heating on both the upper floor and the ground floor. We're solving it with concrete slabs for the upper floor.
For wooden joists, you should complement with chipboard or floor gypsum over the styrofoam if you're "only" laying laminate. See what the manufacturer recommends.
Otherwise, laminate and wooden floors work just as well as parquet. Keep in mind not to use beech or maple parquet as these contain more moisture and are therefore more prone to cracks. However, it's fine to use sycamore, which is a European maple that doesn't contain as much water. When laying wooden floors (solid) pine, it should be a maximum of 14mm and screwed into 14 plywood. This is because the planks move a lot and are likely to crack with large gaps if glued. When screwed, each plank will move individually, resulting in all joints moving slightly but equally.
Some of the knowledge I have gathered for our build.
For wooden joists, you should complement with chipboard or floor gypsum over the styrofoam if you're "only" laying laminate. See what the manufacturer recommends.
Otherwise, laminate and wooden floors work just as well as parquet. Keep in mind not to use beech or maple parquet as these contain more moisture and are therefore more prone to cracks. However, it's fine to use sycamore, which is a European maple that doesn't contain as much water. When laying wooden floors (solid) pine, it should be a maximum of 14mm and screwed into 14 plywood. This is because the planks move a lot and are likely to crack with large gaps if glued. When screwed, each plank will move individually, resulting in all joints moving slightly but equally.
Some of the knowledge I have gathered for our build.
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