Building Materials and Construction Technology
Immobil: [citat] No, particle board works too. ;) They might not have had OSB in their inventory or they might earn more on the particle board. :D
TJ: I have seen that Tegelpannor are being placed on Takboard. Does anyone know more about this? Or maybe have done it yourself?
Zunken: Hello! Where can one buy a cheap insulation box for 110 pipes, I believe they are about 300mm wide? Kommunalteknik has them for about 160kr/m including VAT. I need about 40m so that's quite a sum, so I thought I'd check to see if there's a cheaper place to buy from. Regards, Zunken
Tumstocken: NEXT DAY: Oh, look... I read the thread so quickly yesterday that I barely noticed it wasn't much about interior design/box construction. Well then; maybe I don't have much to add. I happen to have constructed large stables a couple of times before, from the first pencil stroke to even the final welding on the wrought iron work. Let me recommend some good reading: Att Bygga Häststall Michael
Mjölnaren: Was in contact today with a local carpentry shop that could undertake tongue and groove work in 22mm raw boards. They estimated about 125 m/hour. In my case about 4 hours x 400:- = 1,600:- That's how it will be :)
pappskallen: http://www2.blocket.se/view/2971390.htm?l=0&c=1&city=0
gluecifer: Here (outskirts of Örebro) a carpenter costs 270 plus VAT per hour.
pappskallen: What does a car cost???? No, kidding aside, but it depends on a lot of factors, but I can explain what it cost me! Replaced all the wood externally (panel=7"+ribb, gables, underside of eave overhang+trim and 28mm moldings) + paint. The price for this was 23,000 SEK. All the work was done by myself. The house is a 1.5-story, 147 square meter house. My tip is to consult a carpenter for
Mjölnaren: Yes, if you have cork and the moisture becomes too much, you get a definitely floating floor........ :D Anyway, I think it's Icopal that has a system with a "nubby" plastic mat that ventilates out towards and through the baseboards.
Qudan: [citat] We had plans to install hydronic floor heating in our basement. But we were advised against doing so by the HVAC company. Because if you don't dig out the floor and a good bit down into the ground and insulate from below, the heat will go down into the ground and in that way, draw up moisture from the earth. So then you get moisture damage instead in the floor. And even if you would put
LB: The electricity will be cheap at Malmbergs, around 15-20'. Then feel free to compare the plumbing items with Rinkabyrör, they are often recommended.
brevik: Anyone done it? We live in a mexican brick house that we'd like to have plastered to a smooth nice plaster surface. What might that cost approximately?
pmf: OK everyone, after a lot of investigation, here comes some calming information; everything emits radioactivity more or less, and quite a few things also emit radon, like the ground and bedrock, and sometimes even the groundwater, but as mentioned, more or less. When talking about Radon in shale (there are very many different ones, as you others already understand...) we often mean so-called Alum
Immobil: Check with your municipality's storage, they usually have those lying around. I assume it's a decksel you're after ????
Mjölnaren: First, you need to space c/c 30 in the ceiling. Join them together the same way as when laying tongue and groove flooring, but with the difference that you angle screw/nail in the tongue. There were only "visible" screws towards the walls, but these are hidden behind the ceiling molding. I think it was easy to work with and turned out pretty nice too. It retains its color and shape even after 8
swede: Hello Tumstocken I have the same thoughts, we are building with skivor in Latvia, it is more expensive mtr for them, but when house constructions in the Yourmala area end up at 5-6 million, they want the best. I will definitely build with skivor when I build my holiday cabin in Sweden Best regards ::)
Mjölnaren: When I built our woodshed, I made the walls with "reverse" lock paneling....... ;) I used 22x145. First, I attached the paneling on the outside and left about 90 in between each. (Had the wall framed horizontally with 45x45.) Then, I placed the locks on the inside. This way, I achieved superb ventilation and protection against rain.
swede: [citat] Hi Email them what you're interested in and you'll get a response quite quickly ::)
Tommy_S: Grabber's new stainless decking screw was exceedingly good I must admit. But actually, I nail.
Tommy_S: [citat] No, indeed. But at the same time, there is a veeeery big cost difference between repairing and redoing. If most of the plaster is still there after 30+ years, it will probably stay in the future too. KC plaster can actually be so hard that it is loose but still stays! :)
Tommy_S: Yep, MathiasS is right. Cover with a tight press but not all the way down to the ground. It must be able to ventilate.
MrMagic: Otherwise, you can always install a cornice and fill the gap against the wall with construction silicone (paintable!) and paint the whole thing...
Eld: How much filler is needed depends entirely on the size of the floor slope. Try to estimate approximately how much volume needs to be filled.
devnull: If you are going to paint the trim, you can do like the carpenter - latexfog.
yonna: Too late ::)! Got tired in my hand :P I have 'dabbed' some paint from Humbrol ... it looks okay at least ... it's not really meant to hide that the stairs are cracked but rather to show that the stairs have been taken care of after all ;). Don't want to deceive any potential rich buyer!
devnull: Old cellar walls built to handle moisture were plastered with lime plaster and usually painted with an open paint like lime paint or silicate paint. If one wanted to furnish and insulate the cellar, the walls were covered with wood wool boards as plaster carriers (www.traullit.se). Painting an old cellar wall with plastic paint will most likely lead to mold problems sooner or later. Similarly, it
Troubleshooter: Have been thinking, it will probably be glulam for both beams and posts, have been around looking and concluded that it seems difficult to find any posts that are straight enough to use, same thing with 170 joist........
koko: THANK YOU for your detailed response! We took a walk in the area over the weekend and saw some houses (similar to ours) with corner boards where it didn't disrupt the overall impression. So we might consider that after all. Since the wood is in very good condition everywhere except for some ends, it would feel reassuring to protect them a bit more. We have, in any case, ordered enough timber