Building Materials and Construction Technology
rickardg: Hello, I have some thoughts about material choices for the walls for house construction, I would prefer to build with stone, feels more solid. I am currently only in the planning stage regarding the house construction (Planning to design myself and start building a 2 or 1½-storey house with a basement, in about three years near Linköping). The options I'm considering: * 20cm? Aerated concrete +
osmbergs: I have been following the previous thread about wooden or plaster facades with interest. However, what I didn't get clarity on is the 'opposite', a wooden facade on a house with a brick/concrete frame. We live in an older house with a brick and concrete frame and concrete floors and a plastered facade. We are slowly starting to plan to build an additional floor either by raising the existing
Bob_the_builder: Yes, technically it does. 17 mm meets the load-bearing requirements, but it is pretty boring to work with (cracks more easily than 22 mm when nailing near the end grain at joints, for example) and feels more wobbly to walk on. I would definitely recommend 22 mm. The price difference is not particularly large.
MathiasS: [citat] Wise words. I don't remember where I read it, but there is a fear that plaster on wooden houses will become the most common construction/design flaw of modern times. Similar to how bathrooms were built in the past....
gaia: have been given the price of 140kr/m2 for oak parquet: sanding and 3 x lacquer. The lacquer is probably worse than what you get on new factory-lacquered planks, I think. I would choose to switch to new 7mm instead of sanding but for us, it is not applicable (old, thick oak floor) gaia
tiggre: 2 is almost optimal ;) if you're 3, one can make coffee until you're done osså :)
swede: Hello You can buy Hallsbergstegel at High Chapparall (Brännehylte Handels) tel 0370-82700. You can also shop there with Gnosjödollar. Regards swede
norrlandshus_sthlm: www.byggigen.se www.rivners.se cheap!!! ;D
Yo: Saw it at Fredells for 38 SEK per running meter. If it's 95 mm wide plus a small gap, it becomes 380/m2 plus 5-10% waste. Add to that joists, blocks, crushed stone, fabric, concrete, screws, mounting details, it will probably land around 470/m2 but it looks nice, especially compared to all those green decks out there :-)
Immobil: Many things are cheaper in Poland. Check out this link: http://www7.stenaline.se/servlet/se.ementor.econgero.servlet.presentation.Main?data.node.id=17576&data.language.id=1
pappskallen: Built with 170 beams cc 2000mm and 145 studs cc 600mm for this 28mm thick decking, if you want 22mm decking I recommend cc 400-450mm on the studs.
plastic: Now I've gotten the urge to assemble a floor lamp with one or a few approximately meter-high cylinders of semi-transparent plastic as a lampshade. The only question is where to find such plastic. I'm thinking of sheets that are a few mm thick and flexible. Any ideas?
Roy_Kazz: Hello, hello My father is considering installing Marmoroc on his villa (older model). At the same time, he's thinking about adding insulation... I think that about 350 kr/sqm for this excluding labor feels expensive! Are there any with experiences of the material? ...Roger
Johannabacken: One should not forget the value of the possibility of home delivery! Bygg-Ole is definitely not the cheapest, but with a 500-note to have it unloaded in the yard, it's okay. (6 pallets of leca and mortar as well as some lumber packages are not something you put on the roof rack....) /Johan
sollentuna: What I believe I know is that Dorocell is more expensive than Sundolitt (according to Dorocell themselves). Then I know that there are Jackon and Isover as well. There are probably even more suppliers that I am not aware of. When I called around and searched, the price differences weren't very significant, I believe; I called Mark- and dräneringsteknik, K-Rauta, and Sandbergs Trä, among others.
Dicken: The price 15000:- seems high. Fredells charges for Lumi-Trendline with full mirror 2,35x290 (3 pieces x97cm) about 7500:- inclusive of mounting kits, excluding interior.
Zulan: Hello! I am in the process of installing an aluminum sliding door in a 3x2m space. It turned out to be much more difficult than I initially thought, and now I really need help :-[ The whole sunroom looks like this: [bild] If you look at the very top where the sliding door is supposed to go, you can see my first problem, the measurements are not right at all. Initially, it was both too tall and
ledighetskommiten: Yes, "stinginess deceives wisdom ..." There is some truth in that.
David_Q: I have a brick house with gable ends made of wood (clapboard). The wood has been stained several times, but it has probably been too long between stains as the wood is quite dry. However, there's no rot or anything like that; the wood is hard and fine, but the dryness has caused some (quite a few) boards to protrude a little bit. I really don't have the energy to nail a new facade since I have a
tzerox: There are sleepers around the pond to frame it. I was thinking of placing a cover on top of these. There will then be about 15-20cm between the cover and down to the water. I was thinking of installing some cross beams between the sleepers to support the cover.
kinglace: Biltema has electro-galvanized rod M20 for 30 bucks +5pcs M20 nuts for 15 bucks
kjell: No, the text is not important. But it sure would have been fun with an oven door with the house's name. I think I'll go for a regular second-hand cast iron door anyway...