Building Materials and Construction Technology
annawb: Well, we have estimated around 250,000 but we will not be furnishing the space ourselves, which I probably should have mentioned... I'm the kind of person who would rather guess higher than lower. That way, you're pleasantly surprised later... :D
joen1: I believe this stone is made in Denmark. Unfortunately, I don't have an address! /Jörgen
Nybyggare: [citat] Requires tighter joists underneath, cc45-50 cm instead of cc60 as for 28 mm.
MathiasS: Not sure, but I don't think so. I've got the impression that OSB is a fairly common material for molds. The surface is very smooth so it doesn't absorb or stick.
Benno_: At the risk of being repetitive, I don't want to recommend anyone to decontaminate at home unless they are fully aware of what they are doing. Those who work professionally with decontamination undergo training before they can start. For information, it is claimed that water is not enough to remove all dust. Due to surface tension, water does not wet the microscopic fibers.
Hobbyfixarn: I'm going to fix the garage floor that has a rough unpainted concrete surface, which is also damaged by studded tires and have been recommended to use self-levelling compound and then paint. What type of self-levelling compound is best for a garage floor, how long does the compound need to dry before painting, and what type of floor paint should I use? ???
que: I was browsing Alcro's website but didn't get much clearer on the difference between wood protection and wood oil? For the purpose of use on decking. If it's just the color, Alcro offers tinting colors for their wood oils, maybe not as much dirt sticks to wood protection as to oil and therefore it doesn't darken as easily?
Nybyggare: A step-by-step instruction can be found here: http://www.did.se/ccbygg/default.asp?t=1&meny=gds&kat=77&instruktionid=239&avdelning=12 Reinforcement is suitable to use, and if there are only a few plinths, it is easiest to buy ready-mixed mortar, then no mixing of sand or stone is needed.
Ekestam: I think the consensus is quite strong! :) So it will be 95x95. Feels a bit more secure, and if you say it will look better, it feels even better. I also chose to go up to 195x45 on the bjälklaget. Feels like the cost won't be much more, but I know it will hold... Thanks for the help!
Haagbard: http://www.vikerskonst.com/ventiler.htm
Ulsi: Handcrafted plastering is preferable to sprayed, in my opinion. You get a completely different surface on the plaster. But it is very important that the person doing it masters this technique because it is much more difficult and, as mentioned, a heavier job. You should also consider what type of plaster you should have, silicate-based or silicone-based. The silicone-based has more advantages
Tommy_S: Glue-laminated posts 95x95 and 120x120 are available at "our" lumber yard in Sigtuna. Glue-laminated posts, as mentioned, have slightly differing dimensions just like glued laminated timber in general.
Nix: Just a bit of terminology confusion... So these are interior doors just inside the exterior doors, in order to get better insulation. Aren't these also called interior doors??? Not interior doors that are in interior walls, because it would be really strange to have insulating glass there...
gaia: Hello! Reed mats should probably be used when applying plaster to a wooden plank / whether it's for outdoor or indoor use, I don't know ??? Maybe it works for both cases. A suporex or brick surface is plastered directly after moderate moistening of the surface. gaia
Immobil: [citat] I do, I'm working on it off and on. Check out our website and my response on the thread: http://www.byggahus.se/cgi-bin/yabb/YaBB.pl?board=Isolering;action=display;num=1083014601
Hemmakatten: It's more like you're thinking of requesting quotes (as opposed to sending out) from Polish construction companies.... ;D. I worked in Finland for a few months, including conducting an internal audit. I can't speak any Finnish, and the staff was mostly Finnish-speaking. Even though the company was international with English as the corporate language, all materials and documentation were in
gaia: ... why is plastering alone not enough? It is also maintenance-free ;) gaia
johawk3: Here come some pictures. It's easier than trying to explain the situation..... http://w1.171.telia.com/~u17121937/fasad.htm It should be as you, Tommy_S, say. I don't know how to deal with houses that move. It seems to be a problem even with newly built houses. Our house was built in 75, so maybe it's not so strange after all that it moves a bit....
Adam: It works ok. Much of the material that ByggMax sells comes from Poland.
johawk3: Call around to various reputable plastering contractors. They should know how the preliminary work regarding insulation and such should be done. If you need to study more, I recommend Paroc's website. There, it is described how the groundwork with insulation should be done for a plastered facade. So http://www.paroc.se/ Read and learn. Good luck! ;)
Lopi: Yes, that's correct, the panel is directly against the masonite board. We'll check which parts are the worst affected and act accordingly...Thanks for your response! :)
Alfons_Helikopter: According to my ground guy, the budget figures are 1,000:- kr/m for a 1-meter high wall of L-block. He also says 2,000:- /m including excavation, material, and completion.
KarlXII: ...who likes environmentally friendly constructions: http://www.folksam.se/resurser/pdf/r0436.pdf
Framerate: 50000 sounds like a lot to me. Too much. We have pure plaster today and it works quite well, but I would personally choose something woody underneath if we build new. But not at any price.