Building Materials and Construction Technology
Nix: cyanna It is COMPLETELY impossible for me to take it personally. I haven't worked at NCC, I don't work at NCC, and I will (probably) never work at NCC. I am aware of your case, and even that is terribly incompetently handled. What I am getting at is that it is sad to point out those who are innocent. Even if 70% of NCC's staff were totally incompetent, it's wrong to expose even the others. If
Haagbard: I isolated and built an air gap on my roof, oil-hardened masonite was "overkill" according to the building supply store, of course, a thunderstorm came on half the roof :( That masonite can get so thick >:(
Haagbard: Wondering where Lecablock are manufactured and if there is any possibility to buy Leca cheaper at the manufacturer than in the building supply store? Concerned about over 1000 pieces of 25 cm stones, does anyone know what they cost "out in the country"? Edit: Apparently produced in Linköping.........
CarlOscar: Got a price of 120,000:- for the frame timber, floor beams, roof trusses, subfloor, tongue and groove paneling, raw board (for the roof), and roofing felt for a frame of that size, 1 1/2 stories....
MathiasS: When storing wood in this way, it is very important to allow air to circulate around the planks. Make sure the planks are protected from rain but be careful not to close off the sides and underneath. Periodically, insert spacers so that air can circulate within the stack. As much as possible, the timber should also be stored in a cool place. Stack your timber this way and see how it looks in the
Jess: Hello! I can share our experience of renovating a house built in 1925/expanded in 1971, 66 sqm. I bought the house through a relative and since August have been working on tearing down all the old parts, ripping up all the floors, replacing the bad with new, scooping out old sawdust, new insulation, chipboards, etc. And also this inside the walls. New windows. We have also replaced everything
Nix: I do indeed believe that it's perfectly possible to build with studs and drywall, but don't dismiss masonry because you think it's difficult. I would even argue that it might be slightly easier to do masonry. Or at least just as difficult. So if you think you can build a light wall, you can also build a masonry wall. I've done both without seriously injuring myself, the house, the family, or the
Nix: Around the kitchen window, you don't have to have a windowsill if you don't want to. A tiled reveal works perfectly.
TJ: Hello, I'm wondering if anyone has any opinions on using STO Poro System or STO Nordic in terms of maintenance, durability, and appearance? I would love to have a fine finish or brushed finish based on STO Nordic - but since it needs to be painted, it might require more maintenance in the long run... I've also noticed that a large number of houses plastered with STO Poro look dirty. I've been
frasse: If the foundation is stable, it should be enough (rock/blast stone), but check with a constructor, this kind of thing can't go wrong.
MathiasS: [citat] Maybe it's Jula's drill bits that are crap then. But they usually are okay....
betula: It is possible to lay very wide planks if you screw them down on one side and find wide gaps between the boards acceptable in winter. The grooves on the underside are mainly to ensure the plane goes straight and that the planing mill can sell the shavings as energy instead :) Flooring made from properly dried wood does not need grooves on the underside, but it will still shrink and swell in width.
vonSassen: :( In my house - Sverige Stugan, it is "open" from top to bottom, but the crossbars (which hold the wall studs for inner and outer walls, etc.) still prevent the wood chips from "falling down" naturally, as I show on my website with various pictures http://passagen.se/femana It doesn't have to take many years for what the picture shows to happen: the modular walls only need to be transported to
betula: Skargardsbon do you have any price indication on the larch, from Småland. I checked for fun and got prices around: 3500 kr/cbm for sawfalling timber (not planed) also in Småland :D
BESKT: www.lantbruksnet.se is a really good site with all sorts of things you might be looking for. Go to machines, goods, and services and continue your search. Very useful site!
Tommy_S: can you possibly have a spritputs? If you want a slätputs on it, I'm afraid that it will require knocking down the sprit first to a solid base and then plastering again to the desired surface.
kalleanka70: Hello! To end the discussion: Yxhult AB, which manufactures Ytong, was declared bankrupt on 27/1 2004. The turnover has halved in 2 years, and probably no company can withstand that unless they make significant cuts. Glimstedt Law Firm is handling the case. 186 employees are affected.
gaia: When we had mice that went in along the water pipes (there was a little space around them), we were advised to pack Svinto wool tightly around the pipes. The mice disappeared. Maybe that helped, or it was our cat that scared them away??? You can try the tip in places you can't make mouse-proof in another way. Good luck with the "nuisance"! gaia
reef: I bought the "malåbrädan" 60*250 for just over a hundred, great quality, but I picked them up directly from them :)
Matti: Probably easier to go to a carpentry shop and ask, they have the expertise often lacking with "regular" wood sellers at places like Bauhaus edit: noticed a bit late that it was quite an old post so you've probably bought your wood already...
kalleanka70: Can get back soon with details. Got the price from the architect who designed the house. As I understood, it's finished externally with a roof. It looks great. The stone material I estimate at around 130k SEK for the rest. As mentioned. I'll get back.
arny: Does anyone have any experience with this building method (e.g., with foam block elements from Dorocell or Palikka)? I've seen that there's a little written about this in previous posts, but I haven't found any references from someone who has built with the method themselves or who lives in a house built this way. Are there any pitfalls to avoid? Are the houses really as energy-efficient as
Roger_B: See the following thread for more discussion about 8m span with a central support. http://www.byggahus.se/cgi-bin/yabb/YaBB.pl?board=byggmatr;action=display;num=1073552269 In short: K24 45x195 is not recommended, even K24 45x220 is on the flimsiest side according to some tables, but works under certain conditions.
que: Links for the DIY enthusiast...... http://www.dinbyggare.com/artiklar/artikelsummary.asp
pag: The thing is that the pipes don't come up from the floor with standard spacing, so there still needs to be some fiddling with the pipes. But, apart from pipe parts, is it the above-mentioned three items that need to be purchased? Best regards, /Pag
hasse_f: Then there's melanin, veneered MDF, etc... All depending on how you want it to look.
Haagbard: A friend is planning to build a double garage in Leca (25 cm stones) with plenty of space in all directions. Initially, it was just a matter of walls with trusses on top, then it leaned towards making the walls 1-1.2 meters higher for storage space above the garage, which means a floor structure, so trusses wouldn't work well anymore... and so the thinking continued... 2/4-post lift will surely
Bob_the_builder: ...and for anyone thinking of buying Tenico's building descriptions, I can suggest that they can be purchased directly from the publisher, Liber www.liber.se significantly cheaper.
henke_penke: I also think it seems to be okay, but the carpenters I've asked have choked on their coffee when I've asked, and said that 45x145 should be more than enough... but they're probably still stuck in the time when there was "spån" in the walls!!!