Building Materials and Construction Technology
norrlandshus_sthlm: www.byggigen.se www.rivners.se cheap!!! ;D
Yo: Saw it at Fredells for 38 SEK per running meter. If it's 95 mm wide plus a small gap, it becomes 380/m2 plus 5-10% waste. Add to that joists, blocks, crushed stone, fabric, concrete, screws, mounting details, it will probably land around 470/m2 but it looks nice, especially compared to all those green decks out there :-)
Immobil: Many things are cheaper in Poland. Check out this link: http://www7.stenaline.se/servlet/se.ementor.econgero.servlet.presentation.Main?data.node.id=17576&data.language.id=1
pappskallen: Built with 170 beams cc 2000mm and 145 studs cc 600mm for this 28mm thick decking, if you want 22mm decking I recommend cc 400-450mm on the studs.
plastic: Now I've gotten the urge to assemble a floor lamp with one or a few approximately meter-high cylinders of semi-transparent plastic as a lampshade. The only question is where to find such plastic. I'm thinking of sheets that are a few mm thick and flexible. Any ideas?
Roy_Kazz: Hello, hello My father is considering installing Marmoroc on his villa (older model). At the same time, he's thinking about adding insulation... I think that about 350 kr/sqm for this excluding labor feels expensive! Are there any with experiences of the material? ...Roger
Johannabacken: One should not forget the value of the possibility of home delivery! Bygg-Ole is definitely not the cheapest, but with a 500-note to have it unloaded in the yard, it's okay. (6 pallets of leca and mortar as well as some lumber packages are not something you put on the roof rack....) /Johan
sollentuna: What I believe I know is that Dorocell is more expensive than Sundolitt (according to Dorocell themselves). Then I know that there are Jackon and Isover as well. There are probably even more suppliers that I am not aware of. When I called around and searched, the price differences weren't very significant, I believe; I called Mark- and dräneringsteknik, K-Rauta, and Sandbergs Trä, among others.
Dicken: The price 15000:- seems high. Fredells charges for Lumi-Trendline with full mirror 2,35x290 (3 pieces x97cm) about 7500:- inclusive of mounting kits, excluding interior.
Zulan: Hello! I am in the process of installing an aluminum sliding door in a 3x2m space. It turned out to be much more difficult than I initially thought, and now I really need help :-[ The whole sunroom looks like this: [bild] If you look at the very top where the sliding door is supposed to go, you can see my first problem, the measurements are not right at all. Initially, it was both too tall and
ledighetskommiten: Yes, "stinginess deceives wisdom ..." There is some truth in that.
David_Q: I have a brick house with gable ends made of wood (clapboard). The wood has been stained several times, but it has probably been too long between stains as the wood is quite dry. However, there's no rot or anything like that; the wood is hard and fine, but the dryness has caused some (quite a few) boards to protrude a little bit. I really don't have the energy to nail a new facade since I have a
tzerox: There are sleepers around the pond to frame it. I was thinking of placing a cover on top of these. There will then be about 15-20cm between the cover and down to the water. I was thinking of installing some cross beams between the sleepers to support the cover.
kinglace: Biltema has electro-galvanized rod M20 for 30 bucks +5pcs M20 nuts for 15 bucks
kjell: No, the text is not important. But it sure would have been fun with an oven door with the house's name. I think I'll go for a regular second-hand cast iron door anyway...
perf: The answer above said most of it, but I can add one thing. If you're a beginner, you should choose KC-bruk, not murcement (gullex). KC-bruk consists of lime and cement, while murcement consists of ordinary Portland cement with a little ground limestone to make it smoother. However, KC is much smoother and easier to work with.
milla: Is it possible to be frugal when purchasing a garage door? We were planning to buy a Hörmann for our newly built garage, but have now noticed that K-rauta has significantly cheaper ones (5000 instead of 11,000 SEK). Does anyone have experience with these cheaper doors, do they hold up in the long run????
Starfighter: If you have the neighbor's permission (in writing), you can build closer than 4.5 meters unless there is a special detailed plan where you are building. Check with the municipality's urban planning office to see what applies to your area. We have a plastered house and are going to build a detached plastered garage. We are not professionals at plastering, so we will build the garage and then let a
MrMagic: Why not make tracks ??? It's super easy... the lightweight concrete is great to work with. Additionally, you lose the point of a homogeneous wall if you start plastering... No, build a lightweight concrete house (preferably in elements) and rout tracks for the installations. There are routers for rent, cheap to buy at Jula and, in a pinch, it works excellently with a regular circular saw with a
LB: Double moisture barriers should be avoided when there is something that can rot or mold in between. If you only intend to paint on the plastic-coated sheet metal, I see no obstacles to that, as long as it's a paint that the manufacturer can recommend - otherwise, there is a risk of peeling.
ledighetskommiten: [citat] Just note that many types of "sea stones" require quite a bit of maintenance, and the joints often get "discolored" (change color) as moisture migrates through them.
marten70: If you want to replace your front door, you should expect to invest at least 15´ if you want a door that still works well after a few years and withstands daily wear and tear. Ideally, you want a door that lasts 15-20 years!
marten70: It is also allowed to use simple gypsum for closely spaced studs c/c 450 but it is not recommended. There are also Kågcem and cebonit which are approved and significantly more stable and stronger than gypsum. Wet room gypsum is used a lot in our neighboring country Denmark and has been for a long time. Per
sollentuna: http://www.byggahus.se/cgi-bin/yabb/YaBB.pl?board=byggmatr;action=display;num=1083142668; A few more links, whether cheap or not I leave unsaid.
MathiasS: Depending on what type of façade you have, the planks won't look the same on both sides. For most types of vertical paneling, you use sawn timber with one planed side and three "sawn" sides. If you turn such timber around, it looks a bit odd. If the planks are in such bad shape, I would replace them entirely.