Building Materials and Construction Technology
Jenny_U: If one isn't that overly skilled in Polish, what should one do? I can't find any prices or product overview on their website (if I'm interpreting it correctly)...
mije: Hello, Does anyone know links for buying building materials, etc. online. /Mije
NordiCs: Thanks for the tips, the one with a "lock" sounded cheap and good :)
Steff: Is it difficult to move windows to a new location? The reason is that we are considering remodeling a bit and will need to move some windows. For example, new holes need to be made in the wall where windows will then be installed, etc. Can one manage this oneself assuming one is reasonably handy? And if so, how? Do you just take the frame's construction measurements and start cutting with a
joi: We have thin, white plaster on our brick facade. You can see the texture, but on this "modern" 60s house, it fits well. Much more sober, and not as kitschy as mexi (now I guess I'll have all the mexi-house owners after me ;-)) Many churches built in the 50s and 60s have white-plastered brick + copper details. Danish Uniqhus has adopted this too.
joi: Does it work to build bathroom furniture (like a vanity) in MDF? Is there a big difference if it is melamine-covered or not? Otherwise, I will paint. (The doors I will make in solid wood, so it's mostly about the frame) /Joi
Bob_the_builder: My stood without panel from October to July (I think it was... the months go by so fast) without any problem. However, manufacturers recommend a maximum of three months unprotected, but as long as it dries out every now and then, it should be fine. Our house was uninsulated during the mentioned period, so the gypsum could dry in both directions. Feel the boards, I know. If it feels soft and
fia_mstd: Have you talked to an architect? They can sometimes come up with ridiculously simple solutions that you haven't seen yourself and instead be able to utilize the existing space in a different way. Alternatively, they can come up with the best solution for a possible extension. That cost can turn out to be profitable later! :D Good luck!
Per-Erik: Hmm.. I have spiktegel on my house that was installed in the 50s.. Seems to be a very simple and light construction.. Don't understand why it's not used today??? I've only seen Marmoroc that resembles it.. however, I'm not impressed by the appearance either... At least not the ones I received in the brochure sent home from them..
arnel: I have learned that the frame is 15 mm less than the module measurement and that the hole should be 15 mm larger. This provides a gap of 15 mm on each side if you manage to make the hole perfectly straight. In practice, a few mm are likely used to compensate for the hole not being completely perfect. -- ArneL
zankan: 2.5 cm is thin, which makes it a bit difficult to work with... The concrete will "roll" on the surface when you try to level and smooth it with a steel trowel. The risk of drying cracks is probably quite high. Then I think you might get some "creep" on the surface. That is, residual deformations after loading. I mean 2.5 cm is not much, and to avoid cracks in the concrete, you use a reinforcement
Fasting65: As a hole saw operator, I use Biltema's. The drill has the right dimension for the holes in Hole-In-One, and the cutters haven't broken yet. Good value for a hobby builder! The chuck: 20-306 39.90 SEK The drill: 20-307 8.90 SEK The hole saw: 20-303 (75 mm) and 20-302 (85 mm) 89.90 SEK each
Pete_R: I should probably add that "just to be safe" I used plyfa under the hard plasterboards in the living room, but the soundproofing also played a role in the context... :o
Ed: Hello!! I am going to make recessed sauna thermometers, hygrometers. Now to my question... How much distance should there be between the board (with the recessed thermometer, hygrometer) and the sauna wall?? There should be some distance in between so the air can circulate... A quick answer would be great, a Christmas gift for my dad... ;)
Fasting65: Check out optiroc's (now called maxit) serporoc system - www.maxit.se. Click on "Puts och Fasad", then click through there and read everything you can... How to do it in practice can be viewed on our web. Also see the image below - taken from the diary, August 2003. [bild] ps. it's mineral wool, not fiberglass. the price - 303 kr including VAT for the material/sqm I paid. What's really expensive
sotarn: [citat] Your answer is probably in the ballpark of what I was considering, I am willing to give between 10-12000 SEK for the job including materials.
Gutte: Koho11: The color of the plaster was developed by the company that sprayed the facade. They sprayed a small section and then we got to say if we wanted it lighter or darker. So they didn't use pre-colored plaster; instead, they mixed it with plaster and lime. We could have gotten pre-colored plaster according to the NCS number, but we chose to do something "unique" instead. And it turned out
betula: You can expect that a properly dried oak plank will shrink a maximum of 4 mm in width and swell a maximum of 2 mm in late summer. The thickness is not significantly affected. If you keep the tendency to warp down with sliding strips or movable screws, it works well. Even better is using timber with vertical growth rings, as these only move half as much in width and have no tendency to warp. The
zankan: I would probably say that the toilet is nice to soundproof... And the kitchen.. A lot of background noise comes from the kitchen. And Gromit, metal studs that can be shaped so well, and the idea that it would be easier to build with wood, I don't buy. It's no coincidence that 90% of all walls in construction consist of metal studs, right? It's faster, slightly better sound reduction, at least as
grefven: Hey, I saw someone claim that it's difficult for sawmills to process large logs. I know this sawmill, which is privately owned and manages its own purchases, gladly buys thicker pine root logs. Purchase area Småland-Värmland. http://www.ansgariussvenssonab.se/swe_main.asp?id=8
cubix: Look at previous questions here in the forum. There is a lot of useful information.
NordiCs: We've just got the exterior walls of the house in place and now I'm thinking about what to do with the basement walls. The walls are built with aerated concrete blocks in the same size as leca blocks. Now I'm wondering if it's enough to skim coat the walls before painting or wallpapering them. Or do I need to plaster them? Another thing, what is the difference between plaster mortar and
cubix: Read the latest issue of "Gör så här," where there was an interesting article.