I am going to nail or screw a cladding panel onto the facade.
The wall consists of a vertical stud 45x145, a horizontal stud 45x45, and on top of that, 13mm asfaboard.
Now the panel will be installed, consisting of a baseboard 22x70 and a cover board 22x145.
Yes, inside the panel there is supposed to be a 10 mm air gap.
If using a 3" nail for the baseboard, only 30 mm of the nail goes into the 45x45 stud, and if using a 4" nail for the cover board, only 33 mm penetrates.
Is this enough, or should I use 4" and 5" nails respectively, or should I screw the panel in place?
The wall consists of a vertical stud 45x145, a horizontal stud 45x45, and on top of that, 13mm asfaboard.
Now the panel will be installed, consisting of a baseboard 22x70 and a cover board 22x145.
Yes, inside the panel there is supposed to be a 10 mm air gap.
If using a 3" nail for the baseboard, only 30 mm of the nail goes into the 45x45 stud, and if using a 4" nail for the cover board, only 33 mm penetrates.
Is this enough, or should I use 4" and 5" nails respectively, or should I screw the panel in place?
How have you planned to achieve the air gap??
I have the same system at home, re-covered last year, (7" underboards + rib) nailed plywood strips on the asfan where the horizontal battens go. Then I used threes underneath and fours above.
If you want to go the extra mile, you can screw the lock, but it becomes expeeeensive.
I have the same system at home, re-covered last year, (7" underboards + rib) nailed plywood strips on the asfan where the horizontal battens go. Then I used threes underneath and fours above.
If you want to go the extra mile, you can screw the lock, but it becomes expeeeensive.
PS: It's stuck like h....e
I used 10 mm plywood, 45 mm wide, nailed with 3". If you want, you can use 22x70 or 28x70 (sparse in other words) then you get a "new" nail rule and avoid the problem of the nail not holding, but as I said... IT STICKS. Over-dimensioning doesn't gain you anything!
No, I didn't screw mine, but maybe I should have because I have 50 mm ribb (it's good to be able to retighten) Also, I have "free" access to screws. But it also takes much longer to screw, and I have other things to do than just work on this object.......
Why not do "as usual" when nailing paneling?
On top of the asfa board, 22x45 battens (or some rough dimensions if preferred) are placed horizontally to create a ventilation gap.
The under board is nailed with 3" nails into the battens and partially into the beam. Two nails in each horizontal batten/beam for each board. Solid as a rock.
The top board is nailed with 3" nails into the under boards.
That's how I would do it...
On top of the asfa board, 22x45 battens (or some rough dimensions if preferred) are placed horizontally to create a ventilation gap.
The under board is nailed with 3" nails into the battens and partially into the beam. Two nails in each horizontal batten/beam for each board. Solid as a rock.
The top board is nailed with 3" nails into the under boards.
That's how I would do it...
No, you are right Cubix. The lid should not be nailed into the underboards, but into the nailing rule. 4-inch!
In my case, I wanted to add as little as possible considering the moldings and various other circumstances.MathiasS said:
Of course, the covers/ribs are nailed into the nailing frame so they (the underboards and covers) can move independently of each other, in the case where you have ribs I still argue that screws are better (despite not having done so myself) since you can retighten, especially ribs can have a tendency to "loosen over the years."
Asfaboard is just another type of wind protection (instead of your wind paper). I use external gypsum.Pastorn said:
I have a renovated '70s house, that's how it was done then...Pastorn said:
Gnu is pretty much the only thing used today, right!?!?